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J. Cosmet. Sci. 1 57, 455-463 (November/December 2006) Free-choice-profile descriptive analysis of sticks with conditioning agents ADRIANA GAMBARO, MARIA EMMA PARENTE, and ANA GIMENEZ, Secci6n Evaluaci6n Sensorial (A. Ga., A. Gi.) and Catedra de Qufnzica Cosmetica ( M.E.P.), Facultad de Qufmica, U niversidad de la Republica Oriental def Uruguay, A vda. Graf. Flores 2124, C.P. 11800, Montevideo, Uruguay. Accepted for publication August 25, 2006. Synopsis Nine formulations to be used as stick bases were manufactured using sodium stearate, propyleneglycol, and water, adding different concentrations of the following conditioning agents: octyldodecanol, PPG-5-ceteth- 20, and PPG-15-stearyl ether. Free-choice-profile methodology was used to select the most adequate concentration of the agents in order to improve sensory properties. The sensory descriptors were grouped into four categories: stick aspect, sensations dming application, sensations immediately after application, and sensations five minutes after application. Formulations containing 4% and 6% octyldodecanol and 2% PPG-15-stearyl ether were considered inad­ equate, since they showed unwanted qualities such as exudation, a slow absorption rate, high oiliness, and residue. Formulations containing 2% octyldodecanol 2%, 4%, and 6% PPG-5-ceteth-20 and 4% and 6% PPG-15-stearyl ether presented different characteristics regarding the four categories of descriptors evalu­ ated, all of them being acceptable considering the properties sought. INTRODUCTION The current use of the stick form in a wide variety of cosmetic and dermatologic products offers advantages such as limiting the action site, clean application, and ease of transportation. A wide variety of bases, ranging from those that are highly lipophilic with an occlusive effect to easily washable emulsions, can be formulated, with active substances in suspension, dissolved, or in emulsions. Get-type formulations offer the possibility of incorporating polar components and, at the same time, condition skin due to their moisturizing and emollient components. Previous studies on these gel-type formulations with sodium stearate, using propyleneglycol and water as solvents, showed that these types of samples present characteristics such as acceptable penetration, adequate aspect, and good stability over six months, but that they have poor slipperiness and are hard to the touch (1). To continue these studies, Address all correspondence to Adriana Gambaro. 455
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