J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 243 (May/June 2008) THE PERFECT SCENT: A YEAR IN­ SIDE THE PERFUME INDUSTRY IN PARIS AND NEW YORK, by Chandler Burr (Henry Holt, New York, 2007), 306 pp., $25. The Perfect Scent is a popular book writ­ ten by a professional journalist. Those seeking serious technical insights or sub­ stantive marketing strategies should look elsewhere. Chandler Burr, while an out­ sider, is an intelligent student of the fra­ grance industry, and he is a talented writer. Nevertheless, The Perfect Scent reads like an extended magazine article, enter­ taining and easily digested, but perhaps a little long for its actual content. Chandler Burr became involved in the fragrance world when he accidentally met Luca Turin, and the result was The Emperor of Scent, an account of Luca's experiences promoting the vibrational theory of odor. This book established Burr's industry cre­ dentials, and he subsequently became the first perfume critic for The New York Times. He is familiar with the high end of the fashion and fragrance business in New York and Paris, and his Times role keeps him abreast of the latest fine fragrance trends. The subject of The Perfect Scent is a year inside the perfume industry in New York and Paris following the development of two scents: one by actress Sarah Jessica Parker that became Lovely the other Un Book Revie"\"\' Jardin Sur Le Nil by French perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, designed to capture the essence of a garden on the Nile. The book considers the creation of the fra­ grances from a business and perfumery prospective, interweaving the two stories. The Paris story involves the process of Hermes' installing Ellena as an in-house perfumer to become more competitive with other established design houses. The New York story covers the licensing of the Sarah Jessica Parker celebrity image by Coty, with Parker's very real involvement in every phase of the process. There are many interesting stories and insights in the book, but also too much padding. One example: "It is also a block from the Hotel Crillon on the place de la Concorde and the relentlessly, aggressively hip Buddha Bar, a restaurant that finds itself, perhaps to its surprise, increasingly barricaded behind the elaborate security measures implemented by the American Embassy directly on the other side of the rue Boissy d'Anglas." The book also misspells "linalool" more than once, a trivial criticism but indicative of the fact that this is not a scientific trea­ tise. As light recreational reading, this book has some value. To industry professionals it may be too short on content to justify reading 300 pages to uncover the nug­ gets.-STEVE HERMAN-J&E Sozio 243

]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 245-247 (May/June 2008) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 42, No. 1, 2008* Self-aggregates of Hydrophobic Phospholipid Polymer as a one treated with PMS was hydrophobic, like healthy hair. Novel Material in Hair Treatment PMS treatment has decreased the surface friction and Nobuyuki Yamamoto•,**, Hiroki Fukui*, Tada-aki Yamagishi**, Yoshiaki Nakamoto** *Section II, Tsukuba Corporate Research Laboratory, Life Science Products Division, NOF Corporation, 5-10, Tokodai, Tsukuba 300-2635, Japan **Graduate School of Natural Science and Technology, Kanazawa University, Kakuma-machi, Kanazawa 920-1192, Japan In this study, a hydrophobic phospholipid polymer nano­ dispersion was formed by self-aggregating poly(2- methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-co-stearyl methacrylate) (PMS). Self-aggregation was carried out by diluting a PMS/polyol solution with hot water. The zeta potential of the PMS particles was changed by complexation with anionic or cationic surfactants, the addition of which did not affect the average diameter of the PMS particles, which was always less than 50 nm. The cationized PMS nano-dispersion was used for treating artificially damaged hair. An X-ray photoelectron spectroscopic analysis showed uniform adsorption of the PMS onto the surface of the hair specimens. The PMS nano-dispersion was not only adsorbed on the surface but also permeated into the hair, as shown by a fluorescence microscopic observation of the damaged hair treated with the PMS nano-dispersion that also contained Nile Red. From a scanning electron microscope observation, the PMS was also found to suppress the lift-ups of the hair cuticle. The surface of damaged hair was hydrophilic, whereas the electrostatic decay of damaged hair, and also prevented the discoloration of colored hair. Overview of Cosmetic Dermatological Approach for Photoaging Yoko Funasaka Division of Dermatology, Kobe University Graduate School of Medicine, 7-5-1, Kusunoki-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe 650-0017, Japan Photoaging could be induced by accumulated DNA damage on skin cells. Photoaged skin has such characteristics as a nodular leathery surface with fine and coarse wrinkles, blotches and yellowing, dryness, and teleangiectasia, and finally skin cancer formation. For this condition, chemical peeling, iontophoresis, laser and phototherapy are used with some improvement, especially in wrinkles and pigmentary uniformity. Now the mechanisms of these treatments on photoaging have been studied. Glycolic acid may act on skin cells via keratinocytes and activate the cytokine network, which results in the remodeling of tissue construct and elimination of pigment. Heat generated by non-ablative laser or phototherapy might induce heat shock proteins which induce new collagen fonnation, and eliminate oxidized abnormal materials. This type of research is expected to disclose the cellular and molecular mechanisms of photoaging, and to lead to the establishment of further effective photoaging treatment. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 245