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]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 203-215 (May/June 2008) Effects of permanent waving on changes of protein and physicomorphological properties in human head hair MI-OK HAN, JAE-AN CHUN, JIN-WOO LEE, and CHUNG-HAN CHUNG, Department of Biotechnology, Dong-A University, Ha-Dan-Dong, Sa-Ha-Gu, Busan 604-714, South Korea. Accepted for publication February 11, 2008. Synopsis Two types of permanent waving [digital perm (DP) and croquignole winding perm (CWP)} and two waving lotions [cysteamine-HCl, pH 9.31, liquid type (lotion A) and sodium thioglycolate, pH 9.97, cream type (lotion B)} were used for this study. The protein content was decreased by permanent waving treatments on the whole, and the degree of reduction was dependent on the hair styling and waving lotion used. The greatest decrease (by 58%) was found in hairs processed with the three-treatment performance of DP using lotion B. SDS-PAGE identified the presence of the two most abundant polypeptides, with approximately 48 kDa and 60 kDa, and two large polypeptides, with approximately 200 kDa and 210 kDa, which would belong to the keratin family. Some physical properties of the hairs (tensile strength, diameter, swelling, and elongation) were examined with the permanent waving treatments. In general, the repeated waving treatment and the use of lotion B showed more negative effects on hair care than other treatments. Some morphological changes were observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The most promi­ nent change in the hair surface was observed in the hair specimen with the three-treatment performance of DP using lotion B. More severe signs of damage appeared on the hair with lotion B than with lotion A. As the numbers of permanent waves increased, the degree of damage to the hair surface increased on the whole. However, there was no indication of changes to the hair surface with one permanent waving treatment, as determined by SEM analysis. INTRODUCTION Since modern permanent waving was introduced in the early 1940s, the permanent waving technique has been developed with the improvement of hair styling processes (1,2). Currently, a variety of methods of hair permanent waving are available, and the choice of the wave style depends on the taste of customers. Many factors related to hair styling, such as changes in chemical reducing solutions (waving lotions), temperature, and pH, are necessarily involved during the process of permanent waving. It is generally Address reprint requests and all correspondence to Chung-Han Chung. 203