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J. Cosmet. Sci., 74.4, 241–254 (July/August 2023)
*Address all correspondence to Rajashree Masareddy, rajashreemasareddy@klepharm.edu
Preparation of Liquid Foundation Using Magnesium
Myristate
PRAGATI PATIL, RAJASHREE MASAREDDY, VIJAY BAMBULKAR, RISHABH DESAI,
RACHANA POCKLE AND DARSHAN PATIL
Department of Pharmaceutics, KLE College of Pharmacy, KLE Academy of Higher Education and
Research, Nehru Nagar Belagavi, Karnataka, India (P.P., R.M., R.P., D.P.)
Koel Colours Private Limited, Mumbai, India (V.B., R.B.)
Accepted for publication September 15, 2023.
Synopsis
This study aimed to investigate the effect of magnesium myristate as a multifunctional excipient in the
formulation of cosmetic liquid foundation and aimed to compare it with liquid foundations that use the
conventional excipients. The formulation was evaluated for different parameters such as organoleptic, pH,
viscosity, spreadability, adhesivity, hedonic test, storage stability at room temperature, and determination
of sun protection factor (SPF) value using ultraviolet (UV)-visible spectrophotometry. The results confirmed
that the liquid foundation formulated using magnesium myristate showed better results and stability because
there was no change in its physical appearance, pH, and spreadability in comparison to the liquid foundation
formulated using conventional excipients. The liquid foundation formulated using magnesium myristate
recorded a moderate SPF value (11.02), which can be practical for daily use, especially in individuals with
tanned skin. Therefore, we concluded that magnesium myristate contributed as an emulsifier, opacifier,
viscosity controller, and smoothening agent with good spreadability, coverage, texture, and better UV
protection in comparison to the mixture of different conventional excipients.
INTRODUCTION
The desire to look our best is of high importance in society. Over the recent years, the
cosmetics sector has experienced remarkable advancements and holds immense growth
opportunities.1 This unprecedented growth in the industry is fueled by a substantial
desire for customized and cutting-edge products based on increasingly detailed scientific
knowledge.2
Skincare cosmetics are the most widely used cosmetics, and are primarily used for protection,
cleansing, and skin balance.3 One type of skincare cosmetic is liquid foundation. Liquid
foundations are a color cosmetic that impact a smooth finish when applied to the skin,
masking minor imperfections and evening out skin tones.4 It should be blendable, have

242 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
adequate play time, should not be greasy or occlusive to the skin, should feel comfortable
to the customer, and should not sink into facial lines.5 Foundations are emulsion-based
formulations containing pigments, dispersants, emulsifiers, and preservatives, and are
applied to the skin either by hand or with the aid of a sponge or brush. Formulation of
liquid foundation is complex and difficult, and requires the right ingredients in correct
proportions to gain these characteristics.
Cosmetic formulation combines science and art in response to the unmet needs of consumers.
Raw materials are tools for creating formulation options and contribute to tactile sensory,
stability, and efficaciousness of the formulation. There are many cosmetic ingredients with
multiple functions that provide benefits to meet consumer demands.6
Magnesium myristate is a multifunctional excipient used as a binder, adherent, dispersant,
and emollient.7 In this study, an attempt was made to formulate cosmetic liquid foundation
using magnesium myristate. Its functionality in the formulation was also investigated by
utilizing D-optimal design using Design-Expert® software (Stat-Ease, Inc., Minnesota,
USA) to optimize the formulation.
MATERIALS
Magnesium myristate (new excipient) was obtained as a gift sample from Koel Colours
Private Limited, Mumbai, India. Dimethicone, propylene glycol monostearate, iron oxides,
and titanium dioxide were also obtained as a gift sample from Koel Colours Private
Limited. All other excipients used were of analytical grade.
METHODS
PREFORMULATION STUDIES OF MAGNESIUM MYRISTATE POWDER
Bulk density. Bulk density was measured by transferring the weighed amount of powder
into a measuring cylinder and the volume was noted. Average values of triplicates were
noted and expressed in g/mL.
Bulk density Weight of powder
Bulk volume =(eq. 1)
Tapped density. Tapped density was measured by transferring the weighed amount of
powder into a 100 mL measuring cylinder. The volume was noted by tapping the powder
to a constant volume. Average values of triplicates were noted and expressed in g/mL.8
Tapped density Weight of powder
Tapped volume =(eq. 2)
Carr’s index and Hauser’s index. The flowability of powder was determined by substituting
bulk density and tapped density in eq. 3 to calculate Carr’s compressibility index (CI) and
in eq. 4 to calculate Hausner ratio.9