HYDROPHILIC BEESWAX DERIVATIVES 367 '•' apply it must be remembered that cosmetics which have desirable phys- each emulsion problem is different ical properties as well as unusually and should be treated individually. good stability. SUMMARY A new type of beeswax derivative has been developed that is hydro- philic in character. Products rang- ing in degree of water dispersibility have been prepared. These de- rivatives may have two functions in cosmetic formulation they may be used as emulsifiers or, in addition to being used as emulsifiers, they may serve as cosmetic ingredients--i.e., to replace beeswax. These deriva- tives are non-ionic and they possess characteristic advantages over soaps as emulsifiers. Although the non-ionics have been widely used by the cosmetic industry, satisfactory soap-free cold creams have not been prepared. The modified beeswax derivatives per- mit the preparation of soap-free cold creams which have good sta- bility. In combination with other non-ionics, or in soap-type prepara- tions, the beeswax products produce INGREDIENTS Beeswax, white--Will and Baumer Candle Co. Borax--General Chemical Co. Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, "Covo"--Lever Brothers Co. Lanolin, anhydrous --N. I. Maimstrom and Co. Min- eral Oil, "Marcol GX"--Standard Oil Go. Quince Seed, Persian No. 1--Orbis Products Corp. Stearic Acid, triple pressedmHardesty Chemical Co., Inc. Sorbo, Span 60, Tween 40, G-1702, G-1704, G-1706, G-1725, G-1726, G-1727, and G-1734•Atlas Powder Co. BIBLIOGRAPHY (1) Grit•n, W. C., and Rose, R. S., "Cos- metic Formulations Employing Non- Ionic Emulsifiers," Proceedings of the Scientific Section of the Toilet Goods Assoc., Inc., No. 4, Dec. 6, 1945. (2) DeNavarre, M. G., "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics," D. Van Nos- trand Co., Inc., New York, N.Y. (1941). * Span, Tween, Sorbo, Reg. U.S. Pat. Off., Atlas Powder Co.

PRACTICAL ASPECTS OF EMULSION FORMULATION* By I.'R. HOLLENBERG I/an Dyk & Company, Inc., Belleville, N.y. I'r IS THE PURPOSE Of this paper to indicate briefly a practical approach to the subject of cosmetic emulsion technology. In general, emulsions may be said to consist of a dispersion of ex- ceedingly small droplets of a liquid in another equally immiscible liquid. The term oil-in-water emulsion is, therefore, applied to those emulsions in which oil is dispersed in an aque- ous medium. Conversely, where water is the dispersed liquid, the resulting suspension is classified as a water-in-oil emulsion. Most cos- metic emulsions fall into the former category they include vanishing creams, cleansing creams, cold creams, skin and hand lotions, de- odorant creams, etc. The so-called tissue, or'nourishing, creams are, as a rule, however, water-in-oil emul- sions. Emulsions may further be classified into the liquid or solid type. The solid emulsions are formed by oils or fats that are liquid when heated but which solidify when cooled to room temperature. Another means of differentiating * Presented at the May 20, 1949, Meeting, New York City. emulsions other than by phase clas- sification or consistency is in terms of function. We use the terms "non-vehicle" and "vehicle." Per- haps the simplest way to 'define these types is by illustration. Al- though the terminology is admit- tedly somewhat cumbersome, it is believed that the meaning will be- come clear. The vehicle type emul- sion may be described as an emul- sion which in itself does not exert a cosmetic effect, but acts as a carrier for the cosmetic agent. As .an ex- ample, we may cite suntan, de- odorant, and make-up creams. In these preparations, the emulsion is merely used as a vehicle for the as- tringent in the deodorant cream, the ultra-violet absorbent in the suntan cream, or the pigments in the make- up preparation. The non-vehicle type may be characterized as an emulsion whose basic ingredients-- fats, oils, water, etc.--give the de- sired cosmetic effect. Among the non-vehicle preparations are cold or cleansing creams, hand lotions, night creams, etc. For example, ill a cold cream the evaporation of the water phase on the skin surface 368