SOURCES OF INFORMATION FOR THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY 337 tion techniques and statistics, ana- lytical characters and as much detail of chemical composition as is avail- able. There is no doubt that this monumental and authoritative work will rank as the standard text on essential oils. An unusually instructive study is Naves' and Mazuyer's "Natural Perfume Materials" (8) which deals with all the phases of these impor- tant substances. The synthetic aromatics have been discussed by Moncrieff in "Chemistry of Perfumery Mate- rials" (9) and by West in "Synthetic Perfumes" (10). The Moncrieff volume is particularly useful for he gives much information on the odor characteristics of perfumery chemicals. The next contribution to the field will be Paul Bedoukian's "Perfumery Synthetics and Iso- lates" (11) soon to be released. An extremely valuable compen- dium which has been heralded as an outstanding event in perfumery chemistry is the "Givaudan Index" (12) recently published by the Givaudan-Delawanna, Inc. This reference book furnishes data on physical constants, analytical pro- cedures, and suggested uses of synthetics and isolates for per- fumery. Other leading perfumery material producers also publish use- ful reference works. Two well- known glossaries are Fritzsche Brothers' "Perfumers' Handbook and Catalog" (13) and Polak and Schwarz's "Synthetic Perfumes" (14). The New York firm of Schim- mel & Co. made a contribution to the industry with its 1945 Annual Report (15) on essences, oils, aro- matic chemicals, and related mate- rials. Last year the 1946 report was issued and some time this month the combined 1947-1948 review will be released. Comprehensive reviews of prog- ress in research in the field of perfumery are made annually by Paul Bedoukian and published in /linerican Perruiner. The sixth yearly report appeared in the March through May, 1950, issues (16). Developments in the analytical chemistry of essential oils and re- lated products have been reviewed by Ernest Guenther and presented as part of the symposium entitled "Annual Review of Analytical Chemistry" and published in the )•ournal of ?lna/ytica/ Chemistry for 1949 and 1950 (17). This survey of applications of analyti- cal developments is planned as a yearly feature. Information on the testing of cosmetic raw materials and finished products has only recently become available. The Food and Drug Administration is constantly work- ing on the development of special methods of analysis applicable to cosmetics, and these data are published in the )•ournal of the ?lssociation of the O•ficial Atgri- cultural Chemists. No book exists containing analytica•l methods needed in the cosmetic industry. However, deNavarre published a series of articles entitled "Pro- duction Control and the Analysis of Cosmetics" (18) which appeared

338 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS in the ztmerican Perfumer from March, 1944, to August, 1945, inclusive. A vast amount of data has been assembled from many sources and these articles represent a summary of this information. Standardization of analytical pro- cedures and specifications for raw materials are found in the standards and specifications issued by the Essential Oil Association (19) and the Toilet Goods Association (20). The more elusive phenomena of taste and smell, subjects in great need of interpretive analysis, have been given rare treatment by Mon- crieff in "The Chemical Senses" (21). This book includes separate chapters on the sense organs taste and smell the chemical constitu- tion with reference to odor and taste and physical properties of odorous materials. McCord and Witheridge have authored the book entitled "Odors: Physiology and Control" (22). There is not a great deal in this volume about perfumery and cosmetics, but Chap- ter 5 on odor detection and measure- ment is good since it describes and compares the different instruments that have been designed for odor assessment. The subject of flavor, including both its theoretical and practical sides, is treated by Crocker in his book of that title (23). Data re- garding substances added to foods to improve its color or flavor and also to preserve its natural proper- ties have been gathered together by Jacobs to compose the volume "Synthetic Food Adjuncts" (24). The volume of literature on specific ingredients used in cosmetic preparations is staggering. Tech- nical studies of recent years cover- ing the properties and every aspect of production, testing, and appli- cation in the cosmetic industry have been published for such prod- ucts as oils, fats, waxes, gums, and resins. Gillespie's work on wool wax (25) is of considerable interest to the cosmetic manufacturer. Leffingwell and Lesser's practical treatise on glycerin (26) contains a discussion of the properties which make it useful for the cosmetic industry. The new book on bees- wax (27) by Root is the only volume published in the last fifty years in the English language devoted to this product. The chapter on bees- wax in cosmetics lists numerous formulas for the manufacture of various cosmetic preparations. The technical aspects of white mineral oil and petrolatum and its application in cosmetics are treated adequately by Meyer in his recent book on the subject (28). Surface-active agents have be- come the most important cosmetic raw ingredients and the number of such commercially available materials is tremendous. Several monographs summarizing the theo- retical considerations, manufacture, and practical applications will par- ticularly appeal to the industry. The books by Schwartz and Perry (29), Thomssen and McCutcheon (30), and Young (31) all contain comprehensive alphabetical lists of these agents, with the name of