28 JOURNAL OF TIlE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS we may assume that they will carry upward with theIn as time goes on this figure of 85.8 per cent. We can see that we are close to a saturation market, and it may be within the realin of possibilities that with the continuation of this trend deodorants may be used by men even more regularly than shaving preparations. These deodorants take the same forat as for women. Anti-perspirants are sold as clear liquids, in cream form, in squeeze bottles, as sprays, aerosols and now in the roll-on type. (The first roll-on type for men appeared this January.) The men's deodorants appear in every form. Powders, aerosols, liquids and sticks. Practically all body talcs for men contain a deodorant. An important point to reinember concerning the future deodorant trends is that in the U.S.A. body odor has become as social a taboo for men as for women and this taboo is certainly here to stay. It can be foreseen that eventually all men's cosinetics used on the body will contain some kind of active ingredient against perspiration and body odors. The success of all products containing a deodorant has already proved that men have com- pletely adopted the idea and seem even to give their preference to these cosinetics with the idea of "playing safe", and as a form of "social security". Colognes The second sensational development in men's cosmetics is colognes. There are no separate figures for this market such as exist for the deodorants, but it is not difficult to find which way the wind is blowing. The men's market for colognes is nothing short of phenomenal. It was reported in August 1956 • that it was the second largest selling product of one of the nationally known and successful men's lines. In the same article an unidentified industry executive was quoted as saying: "I look at my sales charts and I can't believe the one dealing with cologne". If we can rely on what has been reported in the men's toiletry market last year, the sales of men's colognes are even bigger today. I was naturally interested and made per- sonal enquiries in stores of many kinds. I was amazed at finding colognes for men everywhere, several in beautiful and expensive presentations. Some of the items sell for as much as $20.00 plus tax. Taking into consideration the difference in the standard of living between our countries, this is equiva- lent to one of you spending oe2 or so on a bottle of cologne for yourself. In the course of a few days I found 25 firms presenting over 50 different kinds of preparations, all labeled "Colognes for men". Liquids, aerosols, stick colognes, a real avalanche of men's colognes ! And to think that this market was practically non-existent a few years ago. The logical result of the success of colognes for men has been the opening of the door to a market which would never have been thought possible a short while ago, that is, the market of lotions and perfumes for men. Not only colognes are sold but

THE DEVELOPING MARKET IN MEN'S COSMETICS IN THE U.S.A. 29 also Eaux de Toilette, men's body lotions and perfumed after-shower lotions. Many are sold in bottles with a design especially styled to appeal to men. These products are technically toilet waters with relatively weak concentra- tions of perfume, but concentrated perfumes which are unmistakably aimed at men, as indicated by their names, are also on the market. Success brings money, possibly fame, and everybody seems to be trying his wings at this men's game. Names famous as couturiers of the Rue de la Paix have come out with Eau de Cologne and Eau de Toilette for men. Several non-cosmetic firms catering for men are offering men's lines. One is a famous British tobacconist, another one is a well-known haberdasher, another a designer of expensive men's cravats. Last August a firm which sells jewelry and leather goods for men launched a men's line. The president of the firm stated that during the first year he expected to sell between $1,000,000 and $1,500,000 of these products •. Last year an internationally known cosmetic house with a very feminine name launched a complete line of cosmetics for men in a beautiful and striking presentation. The line includes several shades of a face powder, one with a green shade "to tone down a too ruddy complexion" face creams for chapped skin, a cream mask, a hand lotion, a hair spray, a lip pomade, Eau de Parrum in aerosols and a tooth paste claiming to remove tobacco stains. Another well-known cosmetic firm has marketed a cream for men against wind burns and a medicated sulphur cream. Their ventures are keenly watched by competi- tors and if they are successful their example will undoubtedly be followed. Where are we going from here ? There does not seem to be any lack of enthusiasm nor a moment of hesitation on the part of the leaders in the industry. Some are reported to be increasing their advertising expenditures to the point that they put back 25 per cent of their gross revenue into promotion in order to create a mass market •. Not only does men's mer- chandise sell in department stores, drugstores or specialised stores but more and more of the popular priced items for men are now sold in super-markets, together with tooth pastes, baby talcums, home permanents and the like with conspicuous success. An indication of the economic importance of men's products comes from no less an authority than the United States Tariff Commission in its 1956 report on perfumes and flavoring materials. It has pointed out •5 that "the use of perfume in men's lines was so big that it was responsible for the increase of essential oils used by the industry in 1956." And what does this relatively new and fast developing market mean to us technicians ? Essentially research and more research in many directions leading to lucrative returns. I think we can start from the premise that most men want to be well groomed but do not want to be conspicuous, at least not yet. Therefore