30 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS they want discreet cosmetics which do their work efficiently without being seen or olfactorily offensive. I am sure you have been aware during this discussion that the great majority of modern men's cosmetics are active cosmetics--they do sometl•ing. They stop body odors and perspiration they control dandruff or at least they try to. Some are antiseptic. This is of course just the beginning. We shall see cosmetics for men for chapped hands, chapped faces, preparations for the tired executive's eyes, for the tired salesman's feet. We shall see good cosmetic preparations for sportsmen, cosmetically correct and well-perfumed liniments for relieving strained muscles, etc. Men evidently want their cosmetics to work well and to work fast. They want them to be perfumed with odors which they like and which must differ from women's perfumes for obvious reasons. A number of perfume types for men exist already. The main characteristic seems to be that they are neither cloying nor too lasting. Many of the popular odors are sharp, clean, fresh, spicy, and some have a woody note. The majority of shaving preparations are mentholated. The field of men's cosmetics is wide open in cosmetic research, in active ingredients and in perfumes. A great deal has been done already but I believe that we have barely started. What the future will bring is anybody's guess and, as I see it, very exciting. As we say in America: "The sky is the limit !" Men have rediscovered that if it is fun to spend money to beautify the little woman of their dreams, it can also be fun to spend it on themselves and they are catching up very fast. They have also rediscovered that they can buy better looks and they are satisfied with the results. Men, of course, were always vain--but the American male of today is no longer selfconscious and does something to improve his appearance, which is all to the good. According to an article entitled "Gilding the Male "k , more and more men flock to gymnasiums to exercise and to reduce their belt lines. They even get mud pack treatments, they use depilatories, they buy an increasing number of toupees, especially men between the ages of 28 and 40, who are responsible for 75 per cent of the customers of a well-known wig-maker. They dye their hair--probably to the tune of $25,000,000 in 1957 •ø. Of course no one knows whether this trend will cross the Atlantic like the Boogie Woogie and Rock an' Roll, but it is more than probable, human nature being what it is. !Received: 12th May 19581 REFERENCES • Barron's Magazine. (6/8/1956.) 5. 2 Toilet Goods Assoc. Bull., 3052. (28/3/1958.) a Am, Perfumer Aromat., 68 (October 1956), 42. 4 Wall Street J. (31/8/1955). 10. 5 Drug Trade' News • (.•/O/t957) survey from Look. 6 U.S. Dept. of Commerce. Bureau of Census. Private Communication (1958).

THE DEVELOPING MARKET IN MEN'S COSMETICS IN THE U.S.A. 31 7/trgosy. (October 1955.) A reader survey on men's grooming habits. 8 True. (September 1955.) Shaving habits pilot survey, Part II. 9 Bell, S. A., in Sagarin, E. Cosmetics (1957), 443. {New York: Interscience Pub- lishers, Inc. ) •o Chem. Week. (15/2/1958), 40. n Esquire. (1952.) Subscriber survey on drugs and toiletries, 13. •2 J?ed Book. Market l•eport on External aad Internal Personal Deodorants, (March 1957), 26. •a Ibid., 13. • Marshall Tulin. Press statement. (August 1957.) •5 Chern. & Eng. News. (22/7/1957), 56. •6 Beauty _Fashion. (October 1956.) •* Drug Trade News. Surveys 1953--1956. DISCUSSION MR. J. BmB¾-VINE: IS the use of deodorants due largely to the climatic conditions in America ? THE LECTURER: Yes, but the climate is only a partial reason. For many years now men have become body-odour conscious, especially the teenagers, and sales of anti-perspirants, etc., have increased enormously. A survey published by the Red Book Magazine showed that 85.8 per cent of males (age group from 15 to 24) use deodorants regularly. MR. J. BIBBY-VINE: Are there any developments in men's hair waving preparations in the U.S. ? THE LECTURER: No definite figures are available because men are natur- ally reluctant to make known the fact that they permanent-wave their hair. MR. J. BmB¾-VINE: Does the speaker mean a perfumed cologne or a plain cologne when he speaks of an Eau de Cologne ? THE LECTURER: When I speak of "Eau de Cologne" I mean the classical Citrus-B ergamot type. MR. A. FOSTER: Why has the total rise in the sales of aerosol shaving cream outstepped the rise in population in the United States ? THE LECTURER: Because a shaving cream packed in an aerosol is more expensive than the shaving stick or shaving cream in a tube and does not last so long. Hence the increase in the dollar volume for this product. The pack also appeals to the gadget-minded American. The speed at which the cream can be applied from an aerosol is also an advantage. Mr. R. T. DOBSON: Are there any anti-dandruff compounds used in the United States of America which are not usually used here ? THE LECTURER: Not really, most of the compounds are of the sulphur type (the more neutral the base used the better, as it can be perfumed in a pleasant manner). Many of them have a sulphur odour so the problem to cover in a way that is generally acceptable arises. MR. D. BASS: Has the popularity of the crewcut affected the sales of hair preparation in the U.S. ? THE LECTURER: Yes, there are some preparations specially produced for the crewcut.