190 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (5) A. B. Goodman and A. V. Wolf, Insensible water loss from human skin as a function of ambient vapor concentration, J. Applied Physiology, 26, 203-7 (1969). (6) D. Spruit and K. E. Malten, Humidity of the air and water vapour loss of the skin. the changing permeability, Dermatologica, 138, 418-26 (1969). (7) K. Grice, H. Sattar and H. Baker, The effect of ambient humidity on transepidermal water loss, J. Invest. Dermatol., 58, 343-6 (1972). (8) T. Higuchi and A. Aguir, A study of permeability to water vapor of fats, waxes, and other enteric coating materials,J. Am. Pharm. Assoc., 48, 574-83 (1959). (9) M. M. Rieger and D. E. Deem, Skin moisturizers. I. Methods for measuring water regain, mechanical properties, and transepidermal moisture loss of stratum corneum, J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 25, 239-52 (1974). (10) R. M. Handjani-Vita, B. Randot and F. LaChampt, Measurement of the moisturizing effect, Cosmet. and Toilet., 91, 25, 26, 28, 30 (November, 1976). (11) G. R. Berube, M. Messinger and M. Berdick, Measurement in vivo of transepidermal moisture loss,J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 361-8 (1971). (12) H. Baker and A.M. Kligman, Measurement of transepidermal water loss by electrical hygrometry, Arch. Dermat., 96, 441-52 (1967). (13) F. Tranner and G. Berube, Mineral oil and petrolatum: reliable moisturizers, Cosmet. and Toilet., 93, 81-82, (March 1978).
J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 30, 191-211 (July/August 1979) The role of meta difunctional benzene derivatives in oxidative hair dyeing. II. Reactions with p-aminophenols KEITH C. BROWN and JOHN F. CORBETT Clairol Research Laboratories, 2 Blachley Road,, Stamford, CT 06902. Received.January 5, 1979. Presented at IOth IFSCC Conference, October 1978, Sydney, Australia. Synopsis A study of the REACTIONS OF P-AMINOPHENOLS with m-diamines, m-aminophenols, and resorcinol, under OXIDATIVE conditions, is described. Oxidation of p-aminophenol to p-benzoquinone monoimine is followed by coupling to the meta compound and oxidation to give N-(p-hydroxyphenyl) aminobenzoquinone diimines, aminoindophenols and hydroxyindophenols, respectively. Visible spectra of the dyes are related to DYE COLOR ON HAIR and stability in solution is related to color stability on hair. INTRODUCTION Oxidative hair dyeing involves the in-fiber formation of dyes from colorless interme- diates. The essential chemical process involves primary intermediates, generally p-diamines and p-aminophenols, couplers, generally meta-difunctional benzene deriva- tives such as m-diamines, m-aminophenols, and resorcinol, and hydrogen peroxide. In the first paper in this series (1), the reactions ofp-phenylenediamine with a variety of couplers were described and mechanisms were proposed. In general, dye formation was shown to involve slow oxidation ofp-phenylenediamine by hydrogen peroxide to give p-benzoquinone diimine which, in the form of its highly reactive conjugate acid, reacts with the coupler by electrophilic attack on the most nucleophilic site on the benzene ring of the coupler. The resulting leuco dye is then oxidized to the indamine, indoaniline, or indophenol. In certain cases, further reaction of diimine with the indo dye resulted in the formation of tri-nuclear or polynuclear dyes. Some indo dyes undergo rapid intramolecular cyclization to phenoxazines others undergo slow cyc!ization to phenazines, which is partly responsible for the instability of the color on hair. The present paper describes the reaction of p-aminophenols with couplers and discusses properties of the resulting dyes. 191
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