200 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (9) R. Meredith and J. Hearle, Physical methods of investigating fibers, Interscience Publishers, Inc., New York (1959) Chapter 11. (10) P. Alexander, R. F. Hudson and C. Earland, Wool--its chemistry and physics, Franklin PuN. Co., New Jersey (1%3) 2nd ed., Chapter 2. (11) W. E. Morton andJ. Hearle, Physical properties of textile fibers, Butterworth, Inc., Washington, D.C. (1%2) Chapter 24. (12) J. Lindberg and N. Gralen II, Frictional properties of wool fibers measured by the fiber-twist method, Tex. Res. J., 18, 287-301 (1948). (13) J. B. Speakman and E. Stott, A method for measuring the scaliness of wool fibers,J. Tex. Inst., 33, 339-348 (1942). (14) N. Gralen and B. Olofsson, Measurement of friction between single fibers, Tex. Res. J., 17, 488-4% (15) H. G. Howell, Inter-fibre friction,J. Tex. Inst., 42, 521-533 (1951). (16) L.J. Postle andJ. Ingham, The measurement of interfiber friction in slivers,J. Tex. Inst., 43, T 77-90 (1952). (17) C. Wood, Dynamic friction of viscose fibers,J. Tex. Inst., 43, T 338-349 (1952). (18) D. S. Taylor, The measurement of fiber friction and its application to drafting,J. Tex. Inst., 46, 59-83 (1955). (19) K. R. Makinson, The use of a diffraction grating as the rubbing surface in the study of frictional properties of wool fibers, Tex. Res. J. 37, 763-771 (1%7). (20) E. F. Denby and M. W. Andrews, Frictional forces on wool fibers in worsted fabric, Tex. Res. J, 35, 913-922 (1%5). (21) H. L. Roder, Measurements of the influence of finishing agents on the friction of fibers,J. Tex. Inst., 44, T 247-265 (1953). (22) G. King, Some frictional properties of wool and nylon fibers,J. Tex. Inst., 41, T 135-144 (1950). (23) E. H. Mercer, A device for studying the frictional properties of fibers, AustralianJ. Sci., 7, 173-174 (1945). (24) A.M. Schwartz and D.C. Knowles, Frictional effects in human hair, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 14, 455-463 (1%3). (25) B. Olofsson and N. Gralen, V, Frictional properties of viscose rayon staple fibers, Tex. Res. J., 20, 467-476 (1950). (26) j.j.F. Knapton, Characteristics of fiber friction, Nature, 213,898-899 (1%7). (27) B. Olofsson, VII, A theoretical study of fiber friction, Tex. Res. J, 20, 476-480 (1950). (28) J. Lindberg, III, Influence of different treatments on the frictional properties of wool fibers, Tex. Res. J., 18, 470-474 (1948). (29) D. Frishman, A. L. Smith, and M. Harris, Tex. Res. J, 18, 475 (1948), through ref. 12. (30) A.J.P. Martin and R. Mittleman,J. Tex. Inst., 37, T 269 (1946), through ref. 10. (31) G. V. Scott, C. R. Robbins, and J. D. Barnhurst, Sorption of quaternary ammonium surfactants by human hair, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 20, 135-152 (1%9). (32) C. R. Robbins, Infrared analysis of oxidized keratins, Tex. Res. J, 37,811-813 (1%7). (33) G. V. Scott, unpublished results. (34) J. Steigman, I. Cohen, and F. Spingola, Micelle formation by a long chain cation surfactant in aqueous solutions of the lower quaternary ammonium bromides,J. Coll. Sci, 20, 732-741 (1%5). (35) C. R. Robbins, G. V. Scott andJ. D. Barnhurst, The influence of presorbed anionic surfactant on the sorption of cationic surfactant by hair, Tex. Res. J, 38, 1197-9 (1%8). (36) C. Mills, et al., Measurement of static charge on hair,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 7, 466 (1956). (37) P. Mukerjee, K. Mysels, and P. Kapauan, Counterion specificity in the formation of ionic micelles,J. Phys. Chem., 71, 4166-4175 (1%7). (38) E. D. Goddard, O. Kao, and H. C. Kung, Counterion effects in charged monolayers, 42nd National Colloid Symposium, Preprints of Papers, Academic Press Inc., New York, pp 8-16 (1968). (39) J. c. Bailar, The Chemistry Of the Coordination Compounds, Reinhold PuN. Corp., pp. 25, 175, 257 (1956). (40) R. G. Pearson, Hard and soft.acids and bases,J. Am. Chem. Soc., 85, 3533-3539 (1%3). (41) S. D. Faust andJ. V. Hunter, Principles and Applications of IVater Chemistry, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York, pp 542-545 (1%7).
CHARAKTERISIERUNG VON KOPFSCHUPPEN MITTELS ZELLBIOLOGISCHER PARAMETER Gerh•trd Sauermann*, Renate Hasselmann, Hans-Joachim Kopplow, Ute Heinbockel Synopsis: Ultrasonic disaggregation of dandruff scales into individual epithelial cells and fat droplets was followed with the aid of light scattering photometry. The ratio of the amount of disaggregation at zero time and that after 10 minutes -- as measured by the light scattering index SI -- corre- lates well with a visual classification according to size of scales from 13 test subjects. SI correlates well with the volume of the individual epithelial cells forming the cell clusters, with the lipid content, and presumably also with transepidermal water loss. Transepidermal water loss is consistently correlated with cell volume. PROBLEMSTELLUNG Schuppen stellen ein weitverbreitetes iisthetisches Problem dar, unter dem in der Bundesrepublik viele Millionen Menschen leiden. In ihren schweren Erscheinungs- formen, z. B. der seborrhoeischen Dermatitis' darf von krankhaften Erscheinungen gesprochen werden. Mittels standardisierter Entnahmemethoden gewonnene Epithelzellen dienten in frtiheren Untersuchungen als Proben, um die Intensitiit der StiSrung der Epithelzell- abschilferung und den Normalisierungsverlauf bei Behandlung zu verfolgen. Bei diesera ,,corneocyte-count" genannten Verfahren werden mittels einer wiigrigen, tensidhaltigen LiSsung von einer definierten Oberfliiche mittels standardisierter Ent- nahme-Technik einzelne Epithelzellen und Zellcluster gewonnen, wob•i letztere' unter dem Einflug des Tensids zu einzelnen Ephitelzellen separieren. Die GriSge der Schuppen und ihre morphologischen Charakteristika werden auf diese Weise nicht erfagt. Nun stellt aber nicht nur die Schuppenmenge, sondern auch die Schuppen- griSge eine wichtige EinfluggriSge des Problems ,,Kopfschuppen" dar. Sie kiSnnte mbglicherweise ein Mag fiir die Kopfschuppen bekiimpfende Wirksamkeit yon Haarpfiegeprodukten darstellen. Die Suche nach einer einfachen, praktikablen Me- thode zur Charakterisierung der Schuppengrbge und die Beziehungen dieser GriSge zu anderen Epithelzellpari•metern war das Ziel dieser Arbeit. * Biophysikalisches Met•laboratorium d. Firma Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg 201
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)
























































