232 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Psoralen containing sunscreens: protective or toxic Joseph F. Waiter, M.D., La Jolla, CA Sunscreens containing 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) have been marketed to promote tanning by in- ducing psoralen-mediated ultraviolet (UV) A (320- 400 nm) melanogenis. The rationale is that this may prevent UVB (290-320 nm) radiation-induced skin damage. However, mouse studies have shown that 5-MOP has the same cutaneous photocarcinogenic potential as 8-methoxypsoralen. In addition, the 5- MOP-containing sunscreen Sun System III (SS III), when combined with UVA, induces epidermal or- nithine decarboxylase activity, an enzyme associated with tumor promotion. Therefore, we investigated whether SS III had sufficient psoralen concentration to be tumorigenic in hairless mice exposed to chronic, intermittent UVA radiation. SS III was applied to hairless mice 5 days per week for 20 weeks. After each application, the mice were ex- posed to 2.5 to 10 joules/cm 2 UVA radiation. All test groups developed atypical squamous papillomas in direct proportion to the dosage of UVA radiation received. A shorter latency period for tumor devel- opment was seen with larger UVA doses. Test an- imals followed up to 1 year developed invasive squa- mous cell tumors. Control groups (SS III without UVA and UVA without SS III) remained free of tumors. Animals receiving SS III plus UVA devel- oped persistent skin thickening and increased dermal cyst formation similar to that reported with chronic exposure to UVB, a known carcinogenic wavelength. Over-the-counter sunscreens con- taining 5-MOP do contain sufficient psoralen con- centrations to cause cutaneous phototoxicity and photocarcinogenicity in mice, and their use in hu- mans should be discouraged in the interest of pre- venting further UV-induced skin damage and skin cancer. SCIENTIFIC SESSION II A biochemical and microchemical analysis of permanent waving human hair Roger Mathews, Ph.D., Edward R. Moore, David W. Cannell, Ph.D., Ronald T. Harris, Ph.D., Redken Laboratories, Inc., 6625 VaNel Avenue, Canoga Park, CA 91303 Data on the kinetics of cystine disulfide reduction and its relationship to wave pattern maturation will be presented. Amino acid analyses of cystine, cys- teine and the mixed disulfide (carboxymethylthio- cysteine-CMTC) in human hair exposed to various waving lotions support a new interpretation of the molecular events operative during permanent waving. Set impartation and set retention of human hair Penelope Diaz, LeszekJ. Wolfram, Ph.D., Michael Wong, Ph.D., Clairol Inc., 2 Blachley Road, Stam- ford, CT 06922 Change in fiber configuration is an essential element in styling of hair and the manipulative success of the latter relies primarily on the ability of hair to acquire a hydro (water) or hydrothermal (water plus heat) set. Hair setting is a complex process in- volving changes in moisture content which are ac- companied by modification of the viscoelastic prop- erties of fibers. This investigation focuses on the role of the water both in the impartation and relax- ation of set. Our results indicate that the degree of imparted set is tied to changes in strongly bound (localized) water present in the hair. The data also suggest that the set relaxation of hair is greatly influenced by changes in moisture content experi- enced by set hair in the course of relaxation. The larger the change, the faster the relaxation. Of par- ticular interest is the fact that this occurs not only in cases where the relaxed hair absorbs moisture, but also when the hair releases it (i.e., the hair dries during the relaxation step). Reactions to glyceryl monothioglycolates Marvin Rapaport, M.D., UCLA Medical Center, Los Angeles, CA 90024 An overview of the differing thioglycolates will be presented. Their properties, differences, skin reac- tions and problems will be looked at. Are they al- lergens or not? Are there great differences between ammonium thioglycolate and the newer "acid" per- manents? Effects of collagen hydrolysates and chemically modified derivatives in hair care products Vernon Johnsen and Elaine S. Stern, lnolex Chem- ical Co., 4221 S. Western Blvd., Chicago, IL 6O6O9 The protective effect to hair of protein hydrolysates in thioglycolate waving systems and the non-inhib- itory effect of protein on the waving process will be discussed. Protective effect is measured by using the Instron Tensile Tester and non-inhibitory waving effect measured by analyzing for reduction of cystine content of hair. Other topics discussed are types of protein-fatty acid condensates currently available, their properties and applications in hair care prod- ucts including thioglycolate waving lotions, as well as properties and applications of newly developed protein derivatives with enhanced cationic ampho- teric and anionic functionality.

ABSTRACTS 233 The chemistry of hair coloring processes John F. Corbett, Ph.D., Clairol Inc., 2 Blachley Road, Stamford CT 06902 The chemical reactions involved in oxidative hair coloring will be discussed, with particular reference to the differences in kinetics between the coupling reactions of p-henylenediamine and its N- substi- tuted derivatives. The sequential and competitive aspects of the color forming reactions will be stressed in considering the critical effect of time and pH on the production of the final color. The reac- tions involved in color fading will also be consid- ered. The discussion of semi-permanent (non-oxi- dative) hair coloring will involve color/structure re- lationships and the effect of molecular structure on color stability. SCIENTIFIC SESSION III Soap and skin cleansers: methods for claims- substantiation Mitchell S. Wortzman, Ph.D., Neutrogena Corp., 5755 West 96th Street, P.O. Box 45036, Los An- geles, CA 90045 The assessment of soap effects on the skin can be divided into several broad areas: safety, cleansing ability and special benefits. Safety or mildness can be assessed by several standard toxicological tech- niques. Recently, more sophisticated studies have focused on detection of preclinical damage to stratum corneum as the basis of soap or detergent product mildness. The value of exaggerated use of clinical studies to demonstrate mildness has been well established, and results correlate well to other forms of testing. The basic function of cleansing varies greatly between different products, de- pending on area of the body and type of surface dirt to be removed. Techniques have been designed to demonstrate active detergency on such things as sebum, cosmetics and auto-grease. In addition, the ability of a soap or detergent to rinse from the skin can also be determined. The removal of deposition of soap scum on the skin surface can effect the cleans- ing efficacy. Many cleansing products promise spe- cial benefits upon washing beyond removal of sur- face dirt. These promises include deodorant protec- tion, skin smoothness and moisturization. Spe- cialized techniques to demonstrate these benefits in- clude profilimetry, image analysis and TEWL. Techniques for evaluating the effects of hair products Clarence Robbins, Ph.D. and C. Reich, Colgate- Palmolive, 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 Five years ago a hypothesis was introduced from our laboratories describing how changes in the behavior of hair assemblies (tresses or heads of hair) depend on changes in single fiber properties. This hypoth- esis describes how changes in combing ease, flyaway, body, manageability, and style retention of hair assemblies relate to changes in fiber friction, stiffness, static charge, curvature, weight, and di- ameter. In attempting to test this hypothesis em- pirically, we have encountered several onerous com- plexities. Complications with single fiber parame- ters are sometimes encountered, such as with fiber friction where no adequate methods have been de- scribed for "dry" static friction of single hair fibers. Furthermore, friction of hair fibers varies with load. Thus for each assembly property an appropriate load condition must be selected for determining fric- tional "constants". In addition, the directional fric- tion effect of hair requires a choice among the fol- lowing: with scale friction, against scale friction or some appropriate combination, which must be made on the basis of experimental data. Transfor- mation of data is sometimes required to obtain the most appropriate representation or for statistical analysis. Combing ease provides such an example and, in these situations, critical decisions are re- quired to determine which transformations are most appropriate. We believe this approach is valid, and that the effort to test this hypothesis will provide new insights into our understanding of the behavior or hair assemblies. Antiperspirant claim substantiation Walter Barton Elvers, D.D.S., Bristol-Myers Prod- ucts, 345 Park Ave., New York, NY 10154 Deodorant/antiperspirant products are among the most promoted of the cosmetic/drug categories with the greatest consumer interest focused on antiper- spirant effectiveness, followed by deodorancy, freedom from irritation, low staining, and cosmetic elegance. General testing procedures for anti-per- spirancy have been outlined by the OTC Antiper- spirant Panel. However the investigator must ap- preciate the many factors which can influence the results, only one of which is the performance ca- pability of the product or products under test. For example, failure to take into consideration varia- 'tions in temperature, humidity, interval between application and sweat collections, uniformity of product application, and a host of other factors, can lead to erroneous conclusions. Apart from the many scientific considerations, any study scheduled to be used for claim support must also be designed with an eye to the type of evidence which has been found acceptable by media and regulatory reviewers. The FTC, the Better Business Bureau's NAD, and the networks, among others, have all presented their views on this issue.