VOLATILE COMPOUNDS FROM HAIR AND SCALP 13 (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) bindungen zur selectiven gaschromatographischen Trennung von Struktur-, Stereo- sowie optischen Isomeren. Ger. Offen. DE 3,247,714, Oct. 27, 1983. (17) V. Schurig, U. Leyer, and R. Weber, The use of glass and fused silica open tubular columns for the separation of structural, configurational and optical isomers by selective complexation GC: sec-al- cohols and ketones, J. High Resol. Chromatogr. Chromatogr. Commun., 8, 459-464 (1985). (18) K. Warner and E. N. Frankel, Flavor stability of soybean oil based on induction periods for the formation of volatile compounds by gas chromatography, JAOCS, 62, 100-103 (1985). (19) J. M. Snyder, E. N. Frankel, and E. Selke, Capillary gas chromatographic analyses of headspace volatiles from vegetable oils,JAOCS, 62, 1675-1679 (1985). (20) H. P. Dupuy, G. J. Flick, Jr., M. E. Bailey, A. J. St. Angelo, M. G. Legendre, and G. Sumtell, JAOCS, 62, 1690-1693 (1985). (21) W. A. May, R. J. Peterson, and S.S. Chang, Chemical reactions involved in the deep-fat frying of foods: IX. Identification of the volatile decomposition products of triolein, JAOCS, 60, 990-995 (1983). M. G. Heydanek and R. J. McGorrin, Gas chromatography-mass spectroscopy identification of vol- atiles from rancid oat groats, J. Agric. Food Chem., 29, 1093-1095 (1981). J. A. Thompson, W. A. May, M. M. Paulose, R. J. Peterson, and S. S. Chang, Chemical reactions involved in the deep-fat frying of foods. VII. Identification of volatile decomposition products of trilinolein, JAOCS, 55, 897-901 (1978). E. Selke, W. K. Rohwedder, and H. J. Dutton, Volatile components from triolein heated in air, JAOCS, 54, 62-67 (1977). E. Selke, W. K. Rohwedder, and H. J. Dutton, Volatile components from tristearin heated in air, JAOCS, 52, 232-235 (1975). H. Cheng and S. S. Chang, A study of odor stability of commerical stearic acid through isolation and identification of its volatile odoriferous compounds, JAOCS, 51, 189-191 (1974). D. Saint-Leger, A. Bague, E. Cohen, and M. Chivot, A possible role for squalene in the pathogenesis of acne. I. In vitro study of squalene oxidation, Brit. J. Dermatol., 114, 535-542 (1986). J. N. Labows, K.J. McGinley, G. F. Webster, and J. J. Leyden, Headspace analysis of volatile metabolites of Pseudomonas aeruginosa and related species by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, J. Clin. Microbiol., 12, 521-526 (1980). (29) J. M. Zechman and J. N. Labows, Jr., Volatiles of Pseudomonas aeruginosa and related species by automated headspace concentration-gas chromatography, Can. J. Microbiol., 31, 232- 237 ( 1985). (30) R. Aly, H. I. Maibach, and J. M. Madden, Infrequent and transient nature of colonization of Pseudo- monas aeruginosa on normal human skin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 33, 225-228 (1982). (31) L. Larsson, P. A. Mardh, and G. Odham, Detection of alcohols and volatile fatty acids by head-space gas chromatography in identification of anaerobic bacteria, J. Clin. Microbiol., 7, 23- 27 (1978). (32) A. Morin and G. Paquette, Rapid temperature programmed gas liquid chromatography of volatile fatty acids (C•-C7) for the identification of anaerobic bacteria, Experientia, 36, 1380-1381 (1980). (33) J. N. Labows, K.J. McGinley, J.J. Leyden, and G. F. Webster, Characteristic •/-lactone odor production of the genus Pityrosporum, Appl. Environ. Microbial, 38, 412-415 (1979). (34) D. Saint-Leger, A. Bague, E. Lefebvre, E. Cohen, and M. Chivot, A possible role for squatene in the pathogenesis of acne. II. In vivo study of squalene oxides in skin surface and intracomedonal lipids of acne patients, Brit. J. Dermatol., 114, 543-552 (1986).
j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 39, 15-26 (January/February 1988) Relationship between skin permeability and corneocyte size according to anatomic site, age, and sex in man ANDRI• ROUGIER, CLAIRE LOTTE, PIERRE CORCUFF, and HOWARD I. MAIBACH, Dgpartement de Biologie (A.R., C.L. ) and Dgpartement de Biophysique ( P. C. ), Laboratoires de Recherche Fondamentale de l'Orgal, I Avenue Eugene Schueller, 93600 Aulnay sous Bois, France, and Department of Dermatology, University of Cali•brnia, San Francisco, CA 94143 (H.I.M.). Received July 8, 1987. Synopsis Postauricular and forehead stratum corneum (SC) exhibit greater permeability ehan SC of the arm, the forearm, or the abdomen. This greater permeability seems to correlate with smaller corneocyte area. The permeation of benzoic acid through arm SC of aged persons (65 to 80 years) appears reduced when compared with permeation through arm SC of younger persons. However, the permeability of water through the same membrane, measured by transepidermal water loss, does not seem to be affected by aging. INTRODUCTION In its role as barrier, the skin participates in homeostasis by limiting the inward move- ment of environmental agents and by limiting the water loss. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (1,2) and percutaneous absorption (3,4) are parameters related to the func- tional state of the cutaneous barrier. Apart from pathologic considerations, this func- tional state may vary considerably under physiologic conditions (1). Thus, in man, cutaneous permeability to both water and applied compounds varies according to ana- romic site (2-6). During the past two decades several functions of the stratum comeurn have been docu- menrated. However, despite the efforts of dermatologists and cosmetic scientists the stratum corneum has not yet revealed much information about its structure-function relationships. Corneocytes differ markedly from the keratinocytes that produce them. The most ob- vious difference is the disc-like shape of the corneocytes, allowing them to present a large surface area in the horizontal dimension. The surface area of corneocytes is not constant thus there exist site (7) and age (8- 10) differences. This suggests that studies 15
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