50 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS mities or aging skin problems so that heavy thick-covering cosmetics can be used to disguise skin problems (14). Beautifying color, as well as covering, cosmetics are used to disguise the defective aspects of appearance. The change in psychological mood state that takes place is sub- stantial for men as well as women. Camouflage cosmetic treatments are very effective for pigmentary abnormalities such as vitiligo, and for a disfiguring disease such as lupus erythematosus for which treatment may be lengthy and which may not clear without some residue. Reduced visibility for the duration of the medical treatment and after- wards is a worthwhile goal. For those with aging skin problems, specifically, there are limits to what cosmetics per se can do to improve severe wrinkling, but some standard cosmetics can be used to camouflage wrinkles effectively if the damage is not too severe. Use of color and con- touring cosmetics is also important in producing a more youthful appearance. Use of covering and beautifying cosmetics can also be important as an adjunctive treat- ment after surgery to deal with related aging problems, e.g., for face lifts, dermabra- sions, etc. Cosmetics can often be used to complete the camouflage of the facial disfig- urements that surgery is not able to deal with and to restore self confidence. After surgical changes such as face lift and chemical peel, the motivation to cosmetically enhance appearance can be nurtured. Changes in make-up usage, hairstyle, and coloring often become evident upon completion of surgical improvements, again indicating a more youthful appearance. There are many ways in which cosmetics can serve as effec- tive "anti-aging" devices. CONCLUSIONS Cosmetic therapy programs have started to be implemented. Programs have been de- signed and set up for hospitals in which training in appropriate cosmetic use is being used to help people to benefit psychologically. Cosmetic therapy can provide an impor- tant contribution to alleviate some of the problems with the elderly, particularly those with aging skin problems, the depressed, including those with self-image-related dis- orders, with burn victims or those with pigmentary abnormalities, and those with facial disfigurements that surgery cannot restore. REFERENCES (1) J. A. Graham and A. J. Jouhar, Cosmetics considered in the context of physical attractiveness: A review, Int. J. Cos. Sci., 2, 77-101 (1980). (2) A.M. Kligman and J. A. Graham, The Psychology of Cutaneous Aging (in press). (3) J. A. Graham and A. J. Jouhar, The effects of cosmetics on person perception, Int. J. Cos. Sci., 3, 197-208 (1981). (4) j. A. Graham and A.M. Kligman, Cosmetic therapy for the elderly, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, 133-145 (1984). (5) V. Ebin, The Body Decorated (Thames & Hudson, London, 1979). (6) E. Berscheid and E. Walster, "Physical Attractiveness," in Advances in Experimental Social Psychology, L. Berkowitz, Ed. (Academic Press, New York, 1974), Vol. 7, pp. 158-216. (7) K. Dion, E. Berscheid, and E. Walster, What is beautiful is good, J. Pers. Soc. Psychol., 29, 285-290 (1972).
COSMETIC THERAPY FOR SKIN 51 (8) J. A. Graham and A. J. Jouhar, Motivation, and self-perceived benefits of cosmetic use. (Unpub- lished pilot study reported in The Psychology of Cosmetic Treatments, J. A. Graham and A.M. Kligman, Eds.) (Praeger, New York, 1985), pp. 94-95. (9) J. A. Graham and A.M. Kligman, Physical attractiveness, cosmetic use and self perception in the elderly, Int. J. Cos. Sci., 7, 85-97 (1985). (10) G. A. Borkan and A.M. Norris, Assessment of biological age using a profile of physical parameters, J. Gerontol., 35, 177-184 (1980). (11) R. Kastenbaum, On the significance of the skin in human aging and survival: A few psychobiological observations. Columbia Point (Dorchester) Campus, University of Massachusetts (1974). (12) J. A. Graham, The psycho-therapeutic value of cosmetics, Cosmetic Technology, 5, 25-26 (1983). (13) J. A. Graham, M. Pertschuk, and A.M. Kligman, Appearance training for psychiatric disorders (Unpublished study reported in The Psychology of Cosmetic Treatments, J. A. Graham and A.M. Kligman, Eds.)(Praeger, New York, 1985), pp. 223-225. (14) J. A. Graham and A.M. Kligman, The psychological benefits of cosmetics in health care: Dermato- logical perspectives, J. Appl. Cosmetol., 2, 7-18 (1984). (15) E. Hatfield, "Physical Attractiveness in Social Interactions," in The Psychology of Cosmetic Treatments, J. A. Graham and A.M. Kligman, Eds. (New York, 1985), pp. 77-92. (16) J. A. Graham, The psychology of cosmetic care. Paper presented at the British Red Cross Society Beauty Care Organizers' annual conference, Guildford, England, 1983. (17) Red Cross Report. Basic skin care and cosmesis for the chronically ill, the mentally disturbed and the aged infirm. A service of the British Red Cross Society. J. Dermatol. Surg. Oncol., 7, 455-499 (1981).
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