j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 39, 77-80 (January/February 1988) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publi- cations Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminar in theJournaL--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Seminar May 5-6, 1988 Hyatt Regency, Minneapolis, Minnesota Program arranged by the Society's Committee on Scientific Affairs Morton Pader, Ph.D., Chairman, 1988 SESSION A MOLECULAR DESIGN OF INGREDIENTS FOR PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS carbon compatibility further. Comparative data on some acrylate resins are presented. New polymers for hair care products F. Vogel, Ph.D., and F. Frosch, Ph.D., BASF Ak- tiengesellschaft, MEF/D-H 201, 6700 Ludwig- shaferdRh., West Germany Recent market trends require hair care resins with improved hold characteristics. New resins which fill these market needs are discussed for aqueous and alcoholic applications. In water-soluble resins, vari- ation of the molecular weight of polyquaternium- 16 leads to the required hardness maintaining impor- tant other product properties, and variation of the monomer composition correlates directly to condi- tioning efficacy. In the case of alcohol-soluble resins, the introduction of a third monomer into traditional copolymers results in a remarkable change of properties. The influence of the variation of monomer ratios upon the hydrocarbon tolerance of vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers and other polymer systems was investigated and results are presented in the case of vinylprrolidone/vinylacetate/vinylpro- pionate terpolymers, an optimal ratio was found at 30/40/30. The introduction of other functional groups, i.e., amides, increases hardness and hydro- Pyrrolidone-based surfactants Robert B. Login, Ph.D., GAF, 137 Page Dr., Oakland, NJ 07436 Pyrrolidone, a highly polar hydrophilic lactam structure, can be incorporated into a variety of sur- factant molecules to afford auxilliaries of unique in- terest to formulatots of personal care products. Pyr- rolidone-based surfactants can contribute condi- tioning, complexing, thickening, and foam stabilizing in a wide variety of end-use applications. In addition, the extensive toxicity studies con- ducted so far indicate a high level of safety. Surfa- done TM LP (N-Alkylpyrrolidones) are commerical examples of this class of surfactant. Development of hydrocarbon-tolerant polymers for hairsprays William M. Rouse 3 and Frank A. Nowak, Na- tional Starch and Chemical Corporation, Finderne Avenue, Bridgewater, NJ 08807 Recent trends in aerosol hairspray formulation have created markets for new fixative polymers. World- wide movement toward higher solids, CFC elimina- 77

78 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS tion, and the desire for dryer sprays have required the development of polymers which tolerate greater levels of hydrocarbon propellants than were pre- viously possible. In the design of these polymers, one must consider such factors as choice of monomers used, their ratios and distribution within the backbone, as well as polymer molecular weight and the manner in which it is formulated. These variables not only affect solubility but will also strongly impact on performance parameters such as polymer hardness, humidity resistance, drying time, combing, gloss, adhesion, and shampoo re- movability. Although some of these properties can be mutually exclusive, new polymers are highly hy- drocarbon-tolerant and possess all of the desirable attributes demanded by formulatots addressing today's hair styles. Polysaccharides for personal care applications G. L. Brode, R. L. Kreeger, E. M. Partain, and J. L. Pavlichko, Union Carbide Corporation, P.O. Box 670, Bound Brook, NJ 08805 Amerchol Corp., P.O. Box 4015, Talmadge Rd., Edison, NJ 08818-4051 (J. L. Pavlichko) Hyaluronic acid is an excellent skin conditioner and moisturizer. To improve its substantivity to skin, polyquaterium 24 (QUATRISOFT Polymer LM-200) was developed. Several synthetic routes were explored to develop this hydrophobic modi- fied, cationic polysaccharide. The complexing of QUATRISOFT with hyaluronic acid increases the acid's substantivity to protein (skin) surfaces. This increase was revealed through tritium labeling ex- periments and x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (ESCA). The use of these two polymers in combina- tion has led to the development of BlOCARE Polymer HA-24. SESSION B THE ROLE OF FRAGRANCE IN PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS Olfactory mechanism--Base odors and mal- odor control Henri Hoffmann, Hoffmann Associates, 451 Mon- ument Rd., Jacksonville, FL 32225 This presentation will focus on the olfactory mecha- nism and on base odors and malodor control. It will include a review of theories of olfaction and a dis- cussion of the modern approach to the process of olfaction which will include information on five ol- factive systems, the cerebral path of olfactive per- ception and the cerebral imaging of odors. Mention will also be made of olfactive behavior (the language of odors, the olfactive comportment, and olfactive memory), and of perception of odor mixture. The presentation will conclude with a definition of ob- jectionable odors, and a discussion of methods of masking, blending, and counteracting malodor, and the application to consumer products (bleaches, perms & depilatories, protein in shampoos and hair conditioners, soaps, fatty skin products, etc). Lastly the discussion will focus on unfragranced and lightly fragranced products. Solubilization of fragrances Donald L. Courtney, ICI Americas Inc., Wil- mington, Delaware 19897 The art and techniques involved in solubilizing a fragrance into water to form microemulsions are ex- amined from early concepts to current state-of-the- art methods. Commonly used surfactants are re- viewed, and new products are examined for compar- ison. Use of the HLB system is proposed to reduce the level of surfactant required. Consideration of re- quired particle size of emulsion droplets, measure- ment of haze instrumentally, and stability require- ments of solubilized systems are presented. Fragrances and their stability in personal care products Robert L. Raymond, Firmenich, Inc., P.O. Box 5880, Princeton, NJ 08540 Fragrances are an important consumer attribute which can either help or hinder the success of a con- sumer product. Most fragrances are complex mix- tures of synthetics and natural essential oils which can react with many different ingredients contained in personal care formulations, causing significant changes in fragrance and/or product characteristics which can affect consumer acceptability. A number of potential product-fragrance stability problems will be reviewed, with suggestions to the product development chemist on how to avoid or minimize these possible changes. Sensory appeal of fragranced products William S. Cain, John B. Pierce Foundation Labo- ratory, Yale University, 290 Congress Ave., New Haven, CT 06519 Fragrances have appeal at various levels: sensory, aesthetic, and cognitive. In personal care products there is often a delicate balance between seeking aesthetic appeal (i. e., presenting the fragrance as an object of beauty) and seeking cognitive appeal (i.e., conveying a message about the function of a product). Certain fundamental phenomena studied in the sensory laboratory have relevance to achieving this balance. Such phenomena include sensory memory, habituation, masking, and multimodal impact. Although the sensory scientist may not have the ability to design products from the bottom