j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 41, 391 (November/December 1990) Book Review SOAP TECHNOLOGY FOR THE 1990's, edited by Luis Spitz. American Oil Chemists' Society, Champaign, IL, 1990. Price: $95.00 ($75.00 for AOCS members). This 320-page volume describes the proceedings of a seminar or "AOCS short course" that took place in Cincinnati, Ohio, May 1-2, 1989, among "major soap companies and experts." The title, Soap Technology for the 1990's is somewhat misleading, because this book is actually a description of soap technology, history, and marketing of the past and the present, more than it is of soap technology for the future. Although there a few pages of trends and predictions, this book is more a description of the state of the art. Nevertheless, all considered, this book is a good primer to introduce technolo- gists or marketers to a general under- standing of the history and introductory technology of bar cleaning products in- cluding soaps, combars, and syndets. This primer begins by describing the ancient history of soap and then moves to the history of soap companies and the his- tory and the positioning of soap brands of the past and the present. The deodorancy and skin care segmentation that occurred after World War II is then described. Tile book also summarizes the chemistry and physical properties of soap raw materials and the more important processing steps in the manufacture of soap, including sa- ponification and neutralization washing, refining, bleaching, deodorization, and hydrogenation and drying and finin- ishing. The final chapter describes soap packaging, including a discussion of bar shapes, wrapping, and cartoning. Other chapters briefly describe syndets and soap/syndet formulations and spe- cialty soaps, including floating, marbel- ized, translucent, and transparent bars. Perfuming and coloring is described with regard to the perception of soap bars. The book also contains a brief section summar- izing the regulatory status of soaps as cos- metics, as OTC drugs, and the soap "ex- emption" status. A chapter is also in- cluded on the separation and purification of glycerine, a by-product of soap manu- facture. The primary focus of this book is on soap bar products, with an adequate intro- duction into syndet and syndet/combar formulations, but with virtually no dis- cussion of liquid soaps, which have re- cently become a significant factor in the marketplace. Soap Technology for the I990's can be a valuable addition to our libraries if it is viewed as an introductory guide into the history, the marketing, and the tech- nology of soap bar products.--CLAR- ENCE R. ROBBINS--Colgate Palm- olive Co. 391

j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 41, 393-410 (1990) INDEX TO VOLUME 41 SUBJECT INDEX Abrasives mechanical removal of stratum corneum, 111 Absorption fluorescence axillary malodor, 173 mercaptan cosmetic gloves, 267 new odorous terpenes, 93 physical sunscreens, 103 spectra sunscreen, 67 sunscreens, 141 ultraviolet absorption, 187 water stratum corneum, 51 Acetic acid nitrosamine analysis, 283 reaction with terpene compounds and iodine- silver acetate, 93 Acetone nitrosamine analysis, 283 reaction with cis-diols, 93 Acetonitrile nitrosamine analysis, 283 Acid adipic interaction with anionic surfactant, 213 ascorbic cosmetic whitening powders, 359 caproic, 197 cosmetic emulsions, 1 fatty skin immune system, 249 isovaleric body malodors, 197 medium reaction with cis-diols, 93 4-methoxydibenzoylmethane-2 carboxylic sunscreen, 67 nitrosamine formation ascorbic, hydrobromic, nitrous (HONO), sulfamic, tannic, 283 permanent waving composition skin irritant, 267 short-chain fatty odorants in axilla, 173 Actyl methoxycinnamate sunscreen sun protection factor value, 141 Adhesiveness corneocytes stratum corneum lipids, 347 Adapic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (AADD) amine functional polymer interaction with anionic surfactant, 213 Adsorption alkyl group surfactant, 23 fluorochrome surface deposits on hair, 379 Aerobacteria aerogenes aryl sulfatase axillary malodor, 173 Aerosol powders zinc oxide, 197 Aerosol OT properties of emulsions and microemulsions, 155 Aesthetic deodorizing actives odorizing efficacy, 197 Age skin and immunity, 249 Air nitrosamine content, 283 Alcohol fatty preparation of oil-in-water emulsions, 1 long-chain amphiphilic association structure, 155 oil-in-water emulsions cetearyl, cetyl, stearyl, 1 soluble long chain emulsifiers used in multiphase emulsions, 1 Aldehydes nitrosamine formation, 283 Aliphatic amines nitrosation, 283 Alizarin red nitrosamine analysis, 283 Alkaline permanent waving composition skin irritant, 267 Alkaline agarose gel assay measurement of pyrimidine dimers in DNA, 87 Alkyl group surfactant, 23 Alkanolamines nitrosamine content, 283 Aklylsulfates polymer/surfactant interaction, 23 Allergens permanent waving composition skin irritant, 267 skin immune system, 249 Allergic contact dermatitis skin and immunity, 249 Alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone skin and immunity, 249 Alpha tocopherol nitrosamine formation inhibition, 283 Aluminum chlorohydrate hybrid powder body malodor, 197 393