402 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 111 Mechanical relaxation permanent setting of human hair, 209 Medium acidic nitrosamine decomposition, 283 Melanin biosynthetic pathway cosmetic whiterting powders, 359 Melanocytes efficacy of broad spectrum sunscreen, 67 skin cell function, 249 Melting temperature hydrocarbon chains oil- in-water emulsions, 1 Membrane electrodes polymer/surfactant interaction, 23 Mercaptan permanent waving skin irritant, 267 Merckquant peroxide test hydrogen peroxide permeation through gloves, 267 Metabolism skin relationships, 249 Metal compound boehmite, 67 contaminants detection limit, 283 Metallic salts short-chain fatty acids body odor, 197 Methane nitrosamine analysis, 283 Methodology chromameter vesicant skin injury assessment, 259 differential scanning calorimetry ascorbyl dipalmitate determination, 359 direct evaluation hybrid powder for body malodor, 197 fourier transform infrared microscopy hybrid powders, 197 headspace gas chromatography hybrid powders for quenching malodors, 197 high-pressure liquid chromatography permeation of mercaptan, 267 instrumental evaluation hybrid powder on skin, 197 nitrosamine analysis thermal energy analyzer (TEA), gas chromatography (GC), high- performance liquid chromatography, 283 quantitative wrinkle-reducing cosmetics, 243 range-finding sunscreen efficacy, 275 reflectance spectrophotometry, 367 ten-cycle soil/wash experiment, 335 thin-layer chromatography purity of sodium lauryl sulfate, 227 wettability scanning and microfluorometry surface hair deposits, 379 wool swatch/dye method, 335 x-ray diffraction lipid structure, 347 4-methoxydibenzoylmethane-2-carboxylic acid (MDC) efficacy as sunscreen, 67 8-methoxypsoralen protection from UVA effect, 67 sunscreen efficacy UVA experiments, 275 Methyl acetate nitrosamine formation, 283 Methylation permanent setting of hair, 209 Methyl bisacrylamide nitrosamine analysis, 283 Methylbistrifiuoroacetamide nitrosamine analysis, 283 2-methylbutane nitrosamine analysis, 283 Methyl cellulose (MEC) polymer surfactant interaction dialysis equilibrium, 23 Methylene chloride rinsing agent bending of hair, 123 Methyl formamide nitrosamine analysis, 283 Methyl isobutyl ketone nitrosamine analysis, 283 Methyl orange nitrosamine analysis, 283 Methylparaben lotion base sunscreen combinations and sun protection factors, 141 Methyl red nitrosamine analysis, 283 4-methylumbelliferone sulfate (4-MVS) axillary malodor, 173 4-methylumbelliferyl glucuronide (4-MUG) enzyme axillary malodor, 173 Mica cosmetic whitening powder, 359 Micelies 155 critical concentration surfactants, 23 formation of gel phase oil-in-water emulsions, 1 Microemulsions, 155 Microfiuorometry characterization of surface deposits on human hair, 379 Microspectrophotometer surface deposits on hair, 379 Microstructure multiphase oil-in-water emulsions, 1 Mineral solids adsorption polymer/surfactant interaction, 23 Minimal phototoxic dose (MPD), 67 Minimal erythemic dose (MED) sunscreen efficacy, 275 Mixing interaction of amine functional polymer and anionic surfactant, 213 preparation oil-in-water emulsions, 1 Model animal prescreening sunscreens, 275 interaction, 23 in vitro assessment of skin moisturizer, 235 multiple lipid layers within stratum corneum, 51 skin lipid, 51 Moisturizer effect of glycerol, 51, 155 skin in vitro test, 235 Monoethanolamine nitrosamine analysis, 283 Monoglyceride amphiphilic association structure, 155

SUBJECT INDEX 403 in cosmetic emulsions, 1 Monomer concentration in surfactant polymer interaction, 23 monomethyl heptadecyl glyceryl ether water/oil type emulsion MDC- boehmite complex, 67 Morpholine cosmetic ingredient nitrosamine, 283 Mouse dendritic cells skin immunity, 249 skin enhancement of DNA repair, 85 tumors, 187 Mousse hair sebum removal, 335 Multi-phase oil-in-water emulsions, 1 Myristamide DEA nitrosamine analysis, 283 Myristic acid sebum removal from hair 335 stratum corneum lipid composition, 51 NaCl polymer/surfactant interaction dialysis equilibrium, 23 N-alkanes stratum corneum lipid composition, 155 Naphthalene nitrosamine analysis, 283 Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) stratum corneum, 235 Neat mustard vapor (liP) pig skin assessment of injury using a chromameter, 259 Neat phase see lameliar liquid crystalline phase, 1 Neoplasia skin UVR-induced, 187 Neutrophils phagocyte skin and immunity, 249 Nicotinamide nitrosamine formation inhibition, 283 Nitric acid nitrosamine analysis, 283 Nitrites formation of nitrosamines, 283 Nitrobenzene nitrosamine analysis, 283 Nitrogen oxides formation of nitrosamines, 283 polymer, 23 Nitromethane nitrosamine analysis, 283 3-nitrophthalimide nitrosamine analysis, 283 Nitrosamines analysis in cosmetics, 283 Nitrosoamides chemistry, 283 2-nitroso-l-naphthol nitrosamine analysis, 283 Nitrotoluene nitrosamine analysis, 283 5-nitrouracil nitrosamine analysis, 283 Nitrous acid (liONO) formation of nitrosamines, 283 N-nitrosobenzylmethylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitroso compounds in cosmetics, 283 N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) analysis of, 283 N-nitrosodiethylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitrosodiisopropanolamine analysis of, 283 N-nitrosodimethylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitrosodiethanolamine analysis in cosmetics, 283 N-nitrosodipropylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitrosodimethylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitrosomethyldodecylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitro$omethylstearylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitrosomethyltetradecylamine analysis of, 283 N-nitrosomorpholine analysis of, 2f Nonionic lipids stratum corneum structure, 347 surfactant interaction with polymers, 23 oil-in-water emulsions, 1 scrub cream, 111 Nonpolar lipids stratum comeum, 155 NTA inhibition of aryl sulfatase and beta- glucuronidase axillary malodor, 173 Nuclear magnetic resonance polymer/ surfactant interaction, 23 Nucleophiles nitrosamine formation inhibition, 283 Nylon gloves for use with cosmetic chemicals, 267 Nylon powder effect on body odors, 197 Occlusivity rapid test for skin moisturizer, 235 Octyl dodecyl myristate oil-in-water type emulsions MDC-boehmite complex, 67 Octyl salicylate sunscreen sun protection factor value, 141 Odor 173 body hybrid powder, 197 compounds from terpenes, 93 see letters to the editor, 147 Oil new odorous terpenes, 93 Oil-in-water amphiphilic association structure, 155 emulsions multiphase, 1 scrub cream for removal of stratum corneum, 111 Ointment ascorbyl dipalmitate high performance liquid chromatography, 359 hydrophilic efficacy of skin moisturizer, 235 Olefin cis-diol, 93 Oleic stratum comeum lipid composition, 51 Oleic acid liposome DNA repair in skin, 85 sebum removal from hair, 335 skin and immunity, 249 Oligoethyleneglycol-alkyl-ethers amphiphilic association structure, 155 O-phenanthroline inhibition of aryl sulfatase and beta glucuronidase axillary malodor, 173 Optical rotatory dispersion polymer/surfactant interaction, 23 Order-disorder transition gel phase oil-in- water emulsion, 1 Organs animal nitrosamine content, 283 Organic cosmetic whitening powder composition, 359 Organization lipids, 347