606 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE sebum measurements in, 317 skin, aged and damaged, 104, 526 wipes, 100 Fibroblasts UV-irradiated human dermal, 229 Fragrance(s) (see also Odors) retention of, 96 synthesis from 2-methylfuran, 493 Gel(s) (see also Creams) Cabopol©, 239 containing sunscreen agents, 513 hydrophilic, containing 2% polyphenone, effect on aged and damaged facial skin, 104 lactic acid formulation, skin penetration by, 421 massage, composition of, 321 moisturizing, 321 Pemulen©, 239 Hair ammonia/peroxide bleaching of, 395 appearance, 353 bending stress of, 427, 525 body hair, diameter of, 218 damage, 175, 210, 214, 379 dandruff, 263 diffusion kinetics of uranine in, 379 DNA in fibers, 21 length, in Florida theme parks, 53 length, in USA and larger populations, 367 luster/shine, 335, 353 major and minor axes of, 427 optical properties of, 335 physical properties of, 427, 525 protein loss f¾om, 175, 214 surface, 569 torsional stress of, 525 Hair care antidandruff preparations, antifungal effects of, 263 cationic conditioning compounds, effect of, 63 conditioners, effect on surface hardness of hair fibers, 579 Hair cuticle fiber cuticle angles, 301 light-scattering factors in, 353 reinforcement of, 63 scale lifting and role of cationic conditioning compounds, 63 structural changes in, 353 Hair dyes concentration ratio in, 379 diffusion of uranine in, 379 exposure considerations related to, 208 measurement of dyed hair color, 318 protection of, 212 safety of, 208 Hair fibers behavior of, 63 cuticle angles of, 301 diffusion coefficients in, 379 DNA analysis of, 21 dye concentration in fiber radius, 379 hair strand test, 263 hydration, 527 internal structures of, 353 laser-light reflection from, 301 modified, 379 moisture content in, 353 stabilizer-free, 379 surface hardness of, 579 untreated, 379 Immune system human immune response, 90 T cells, 90 Keratin(s) hyperkeratosis, 222 interaction with model cationic compounds, 63 on scalp surface, 263 Lipids in o/w microemulsions, 451 interplay with corneocytes in the stratum comeum, 102 Liposomes lipophilic vitamin E acetate in, 119 Lipstick utility and development of, 427 Makeup and restoration of youthful look, 318 Melanins Sepia, 395 synthesis, inhibition by Ramulus mori extracts, 133 Micel!es mixed, penetration into the epidermis, 143 sodium dodecyl sulfate, penetration into the epidermis, 143 Moisturizers humectant-containing gels, 321 moisture mask, 9 Mosquito repellents methyl neodecanamide (MNDA) vs Deet, 283 Odors (see also Fragrance(s)) of furan compounds, 493 Oils castor, 335 coconut, 175, 214 lavender, 429 mineral, 175, 214 sunflower, 175, 214 Photodamage in human hair, UV-induced, 210

SUBJECT INDEX 607 Photostability of sunscreens, 87, 513 Plant extracts anti-irritant activity of, 106 anti-melanogenic ingredients in Ramulus mori, 133 auxins, 106 castor oil, 335 coconut oil, 175, 214 fermented sage compound, cosmeceutical properties of, 224 green tea extract (polyphenone), in hydrophilic gel, 104 isoflavones, 106 lavender oil, 429 licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.), antioxidant activity of, 551 onion leaf extracts, 106 sunflower oil, 175, 214 tasselin, 106 Polymers (see also Cationic compounds Silicones) acrylate-silicone graft copolymer as dispersing agent, 526 biphasic film, 569 cationic polymers, effects on creep, behavior of hair fibers, 63 hydrophilically modified silicone elastomers, 193 luster parameters in polymer-treated hair, 335 model polymeric cationic conditioning compounds, interaction with keratin, 63 PEGylated latexes, 569 perfiuoroalkylethyl acrylate copolymers, 318 and scale-lifting phenomenon of hair surface cuticle cells, 63 Preservatives diffusion of, from topical dosage forms, 239 efficacy testing of, 1, 411 esters, 239 extraction of, 239 HPLC analysis of, 239 quantitative analysis of, 239 in sunscreens, 1 Product perception and emotional factors, 94 Prohibited ingredients studies for identifying, 318 Protein(s) loss from hair, 175, 214 modification in hair, 379 separation of, in hair, 379 transactivator of transcription (TAT) in slimming products, 483 Rheology changes in cosmetics, 321 modification of silicone elastomers, 193 rheological measu/ring device, use of, 321 of sunscreen microemulsions, 451 Safety tests of Deofix TM, 251 hair strand test, for testing antifungal effects of antidandruff preparations, 263 Scalp (see also Dandruff) hair length, 53, 367 keratin, 263 sebum-rich surface of, 263 Sebum facial, 317 on scalp surface, growth of yeasts, 263 synthetic, 335 Sensory measurement differentiation of commercial facial wipes, 100 in evaluation of hair fiber hydration, 527 of potential fragrance-retaining materials, 96 understanding how human senses work, 92 rheological measuring device, use of, 321 Silicones (see also Polymers) cross-linked, 427 elastomers, hydrophilically modified, 193 Skin acne, 220, 222, 226 aged and aging, 104, 318 alpha-tocopherol permeation of, 161 assessment, 317 bioengineering techniques, 319 blood flow in, 499 color, 108 damage, 104, 16 l dryness, 108 epidermis, penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate micelles into, 29, 143 hydration, 9, 109, 526 immunosurveillance of, 90 in vitro permeation by lactic acid gel, 421 irritation, 21-day and 14-day tests, 443 luminance, 108 mouse, penetration enhancement in, 483 permeation by TAT-GKH peptide, 483 Ramulus mori extracts as a whitening ingredient, 133 sensitivity, 525 Skin assessment analysis of eye movement of evaluator, 317 identification of sensitivity through corneocyte measurement, 525 imaging by contbcal microscope technique, 428 relationship between physical parameters and blood flow in human face, 499 Skin care efficacy of 2% polyphenone in a hydrophilic gel on aged and damaged facial skin, 104