SUBJECT INDEX 607 Photostability of sunscreens, 87, 513 Plant extracts anti-irritant activity of, 106 anti-melanogenic ingredients in Ramulus mori, 133 auxins, 106 castor oil, 335 coconut oil, 175, 214 fermented sage compound, cosmeceutical properties of, 224 green tea extract (polyphenone), in hydrophilic gel, 104 isoflavones, 106 lavender oil, 429 licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.), antioxidant activity of, 551 onion leaf extracts, 106 sunflower oil, 175, 214 tasselin, 106 Polymers (see also Cationic compounds Silicones) acrylate-silicone graft copolymer as dispersing agent, 526 biphasic film, 569 cationic polymers, effects on creep, behavior of hair fibers, 63 hydrophilically modified silicone elastomers, 193 luster parameters in polymer-treated hair, 335 model polymeric cationic conditioning compounds, interaction with keratin, 63 PEGylated latexes, 569 perfiuoroalkylethyl acrylate copolymers, 318 and scale-lifting phenomenon of hair surface cuticle cells, 63 Preservatives diffusion of, from topical dosage forms, 239 efficacy testing of, 1, 411 esters, 239 extraction of, 239 HPLC analysis of, 239 quantitative analysis of, 239 in sunscreens, 1 Product perception and emotional factors, 94 Prohibited ingredients studies for identifying, 318 Protein(s) loss from hair, 175, 214 modification in hair, 379 separation of, in hair, 379 transactivator of transcription (TAT) in slimming products, 483 Rheology changes in cosmetics, 321 modification of silicone elastomers, 193 rheological measu/ring device, use of, 321 of sunscreen microemulsions, 451 Safety tests of Deofix TM, 251 hair strand test, for testing antifungal effects of antidandruff preparations, 263 Scalp (see also Dandruff) hair length, 53, 367 keratin, 263 sebum-rich surface of, 263 Sebum facial, 317 on scalp surface, growth of yeasts, 263 synthetic, 335 Sensory measurement differentiation of commercial facial wipes, 100 in evaluation of hair fiber hydration, 527 of potential fragrance-retaining materials, 96 understanding how human senses work, 92 rheological measuring device, use of, 321 Silicones (see also Polymers) cross-linked, 427 elastomers, hydrophilically modified, 193 Skin acne, 220, 222, 226 aged and aging, 104, 318 alpha-tocopherol permeation of, 161 assessment, 317 bioengineering techniques, 319 blood flow in, 499 color, 108 damage, 104, 16 l dryness, 108 epidermis, penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate micelles into, 29, 143 hydration, 9, 109, 526 immunosurveillance of, 90 in vitro permeation by lactic acid gel, 421 irritation, 21-day and 14-day tests, 443 luminance, 108 mouse, penetration enhancement in, 483 permeation by TAT-GKH peptide, 483 Ramulus mori extracts as a whitening ingredient, 133 sensitivity, 525 Skin assessment analysis of eye movement of evaluator, 317 identification of sensitivity through corneocyte measurement, 525 imaging by contbcal microscope technique, 428 relationship between physical parameters and blood flow in human face, 499 Skin care efficacy of 2% polyphenone in a hydrophilic gel on aged and damaged facial skin, 104

608 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE skinfeel and handfeel of disposable facial wipes, 100 percutaneous absorption by skincare products, 317 soothing and calming effects of N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-cetylester peptide, 98 Solid-phase extraction Determination of methylparaben in o/w emulsions by, 47 Solvents polarity of, 87 Sonication from ultrasonic wave beauty devices, 319 Spectroscopy in vitro, of sunscreen products, 463 UV, in vitamin E acetate penetration studies, 119 Stratum comeurn (see also Skin) aqueous pore radius in, 29 interplay between corneocytes and lipids in, 102 penetration of vitamin E acetate, 119 thickness of, 108 water barrier in, 110 water-handling properties of, 289 Sun protection factors (SPFs) predictions t¾om UV filter blends, 463 Sunscreen(s) film geometry, continuous height distribution model of, 463 overview of, 86 o/w microemulsion as vehicle for, 451 phototoprotection against UV-induced reactive oxygen species, 589 photostability in, 87, 513 preservative systems in, 1 rutile-based pigments in, 513 treatment efficiency of, 513 UV filters in, 87, 463 Surfactants amphoteric, 559 anionic, 559 evaluation of, on dyed hair, 318 in multicompound fragrance, 429 non-ionic, 559 in o/w microemulsions, 451 Tape stripping quantification of vitamin E acetate penetration by, 119 separation of stratum corneum from epidermis, 161 and stratum corneum water barrier, 110 Triclosan TM antimicrobial activity of, 537 aqueous solubility of, 537 as deodorant, 251 molecular structure of, 537 Ultraviolet radiation and cutaneous skin damage, 161 effect on hair roughness and thickness, analysis by atomic force microscopy, 271 filters in sunscreens, 87, 463 and photochemical oxidation of hair, 379 protection from, by rotlie-based pigments, 513 Vitamin A and acne, 220 Vitamin C bioconversion from sodium ascorbyl phosphate within the epidermis, 589 Vitamin E acetate bioconversion to vitamin E within the epidermis, 589 penetration studies of, 119