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J. Cosmet. Sci., 66, 175–187 (May/June 2015) 175 Clinical evaluation of Gac extract (Momordica cochinchinensis) in an antiwrinkle cream formulation PAKAPUN LEEVUTINUN, PANVIPA KRISADAPHONG, and AMORN PETSOM, Technopreneurship and Innovation Management, Graduate School, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok 10330 (P.L.), School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100 (P.K.), Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok 10330 (A.P.), Thailand. Accepted for publication March 5, 2015. Synopsis The objective of this work was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Gac (Momordica cochinchinensis) extract and to clinically evaluate a Gac-containing antiwrinkle cream formulation. Gac extract exhibited higher antioxidant activity than vitamin C or E, as measured by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH, 41.25 ± 0.34 mg TEAC/ml extract), 2, 2’-azinobis 3-ethylbenzothialine-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS, 47.70 ± 0.18 mg TEAC/ml extract), and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP, 105.03 ± 2.326 mg TEAC/ml extract) scavenging. The antioxidant activity of Gac extract was 5.85- and 11.75-fold higher than that of vitamin E in the DPPH and ABTS assays, respectively. The FRAP assay indicated that the antioxidant activity of Gac extract was 2.91-fold higher than that of vitamin C. Gac extract also exhibited high tyrosinase inhibition (62.83% ± 1.99%). The tyrosinase inhibition activity of Gac extract was 1.51- and 2.06-fold greater than that of vitamins C and E, respectively. The safety and effi cacy of the formulated Gac extract cream as an antiwrinkle agent and its promotion of skin moisturization and smoothness were investigated. Evaluation of acute skin tolerance indicated nonirritating properties. A clinical study revealed increases in cutaneous hydration. Average roughness was decreased, while smoothness was increased. Skin overlook anal- ysis indicated skin roughness relief. These results indicate that the formulated Gac extract product is an ef- fective antiwrinkle cream. INTRODUCTION Wrinkles in the skin accumulate with aging. The skin develops wrinkles via two mecha- nisms: (a) intrinsic aging involving continuously deteriorating tissue function and (b) ex- trinsic aging caused by environmental factors such as light or UV radiation exposure (1). Momordica cochinchinensis (Lour.) Spreng or Gac is known as Phak Kao in Thailand. M. cochinchinensis is a tropical plant that is grown in countries such as Thailand, India, China, Laos, and, in particular, Vietnam, where Gac is used medicinally to treat dry eyes and Address all correspondence to Pakapun Leevutinun at vickypakapun@gmail.com.
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