ENHANCING SKIN RADIANCE THROUGH THE USE OF EFFECT PIGMENTS 197 Table II Formulation of Conventional Face Cream–Control Weight % Phase INCI Control cream Test cream A Test cream B Test cream C Test cream D Test cream E I Glyceryl stearate (and) ceteareth-20 (and) ceteareth-12 (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) cetyl palmitate 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Behenyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Ethylhexyl palmitate 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Hexyldecanol (and) hexyldecyl laurate 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dicaprylyl ether 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Sodium polyacrylate 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 Dimethicone 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 II Water 74.10 71.60 71.60 71.60 69.10 69.10 Propylene glycol (and) phenoxyethanol (and) chlorphenesin (and) methylparaben 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Xanthan gum 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Mica – 2.50 – – – – Mica (and) titanium dioxide – – 2.50 – – – Synthetic fl uorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide – – – 2.50 – – Calcium sodium borosilicate (and) titanium dioxide – – – – 5.00 – Bismuth oxychloride – – – – – 5.00 Total % 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 light source that is used to enhance specular refl ections and observe the lightness proper- ties of the skin surface. The fi fth image is captured under an ultraviolet light source. RESULTS COLORIMETER RESULTS The CR-400 Chroma Meter allows for color measurements directly on skin, by the use of a diffuse light source that shines on the skin and a detector at 0º (or normal to the surface).

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 198 Figure 8 and 9 show the differences between the baseline CIELab values to the values 10 min after the control formula was applied and 10 min after the formula with pigments 1–5 was applied. The side of the face where the control was applied was randomized each day for each panelist. The change between Figures 8 and 9 demonstrates that the formulas containing Products B, C, D, and E all increase the lightness values measured on the skin while also decreasing the chroma measurements of the skin. As predicted, the formula containing uncoated natural mica (Product A) does not show a color impact on the skin after application. Product B (titanium dioxide on natural mica) and product C (titanium dioxide on syn- thetic fl uorphlogopite) provide the greatest relative changes in lightness and chroma values. Table III shows that the increase in lightness of the skin and the decrease in color are found to be statistically signifi cant among the six panelists tested. VISIA IMAGE ANALYSIS AND HISTOGRAM RESULTS The Chroma Meter data displayed above demonstrates a clear correlation between the CIELab data for the in vitro color card simulation and in the in vivo screening study. To further evaluate these fi ve test products for their contribution to skin radiance, the images of each panelist’s hemifaces from the Visia CR instrument were further calibrated and analyzed. The Visia CR hemiface images have the advantage of accounting for panelist cheek morphology compared to Chroma Meter single angle measurements, so the facial skin and the addition of effect pigments can be assessed for their impact on radiance mea- surements. Figure 10 shows the clear impact of the effect pigments in the formulation, comparing the top row of baseline images and control formulas to the effect pigment formulations below. While the differences between formulations can be seen easily by subjective observers (6, 7) there needs to be an objective means of scaling radiance to evaluate products. The fi rst characteristic to analyze is the impact of the perceived skin color. Image analysis and calibration of each of the panelist hemiface images was done by Newtone Technologies (Lyon, France). Newtone Technologies sectioned a fi xed area of each panelist’s cheek of the Figure 8. Change in chroma and lightness of the control formula 10 min after application compared to baseline. Figure 9. Change in chroma and lightness of the effect pigments 10 min after application compared to baseline.