CLINICAL EVALUATION OF GAC EXTRACT 183 (41%) and 2.06-fold greater activity than vitamin E (30%). Under the same test condi- tions, kojic acid exhibited 95.9% tyrosinase inhibition (27). IN VIVO CLINICAL TESTS Moisturizing effect. The skin moisturizing effect can be determined by analyzing the amount of moisture in the stratum corneum (28) to determine the cutaneous hydration rate. The analysis was conducted on subjects who had moderate to slightly dry skin on the face with a cutaneous hydration rate 70 AU on day 0 before using the product demonstrated in Table II. The product induced a signifi cant increase in the cutaneous hydration rate (9% and 10% at 28 and 56 days, respectively, p = 0.038 and p = 0.048). A p value of less than 0.05 was considered signifi cant. A moisturizing effect was observed in 69% of the subjects at 28 days and 75% of the subjects at 56 days. The moisturizing experiment thus verifi ed that the Gac cream was effi cacious in increasing skin moisture and was suitable as a skin care product. Table II Skin Hydration Effects after 28 and 56 Days Cutaneous Hydration Rate Kinetic % on average p Signifi cance Number of subjects exhibiting a positive effect (%) (mean ± SEM) 70 AU (28-D0) 4.50 ± 1.97 9 0.038 Yes 69 (56-D0) 5.33 ± 2.47 10 0.048 Yes 75 p values 0.05 were regarded as signifi cant. Table III Skin Colorimetric Parameters after 28 and 56 Days of Gac Extract Cream Use Parameter Kinetic % on average p Signifi cance % of subjects exhibiting the expected effect (mean ± SEM) L* (28-D0) −0.12 ± 0.17 −0 0.486 No 32 b* (28-D0) +0.09 ± 0.19 +0 0.439 No 59 ITA° (28-D0) −0.4 ± 0.4 −1 0.329 No 23 L* (56-D0) +0.16 ± 0.14 +0 0.265 No 45 b* (56-D0) +0.11 ± 0.18 +1 0.557 No 32 ITA° (56-D0) +0.3 ± 0.3 +1 0.393 No 32 p values 0.05 were regarded as signifi cant. Whitening effect. The skin lightening effect of the Gac extract cream was evaluated using a Chroma Meter® (Osaka, Japan) to measure the colorimetric parameters L* and b* as well as the ITA° of the human skin. The comparison was based on the values obtained on the treated zone before and after 28 and 56 days of use, described in Table III. A synthesis of the variations in the parameters L* and b* as well as ITA° were obtained after 28 and 56 days of product use. Percentage of subject exhibiting the expected effect came from number of subjects who had skin color changing measure by Chroma meter devices (if variation 0.1) after 28 days and 56 days calculate to percentage.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 184 Table IV Antiwrinkle Parameters after 28 and 56 Days of Gac Extract Cream Use Number of subjects exhibiting the expected effect (%) Parameter Kinetic (mean ± SEM) % on average p Signifi cance Ra (μm) (28-D0) −0.64 ± 0.30 −3 0.048 Yes 75 Rz (μm) (28-D0) −4.32 ± 1.77 −4 0.025 Yes 70 Rt (μm) (28-D0) −7.45 ± 2.77 −4 0.015 Yes 75 Ra (μm) (56-D0) −0.93 ± 0.44 −4 0.049 Yes 70 Rz (μm) (56-D0) −6.48 ± 2.40 −5 0.014 Yes 75 Rt (μm) (56-D0) −9.28 ± 3.31 −5 0.011 Yes 75 p values 0.05 were regarded as signifi cant. After 56 days of twice-daily use, the product induced an average increase in the L* parameter of [−0.12 and +0.16AU (p = 0.486 and p = 0.265), this effect was observed in 32% (7 of 22 subjects) and 45% (10 of 22 subjects) of subjects exhibiting the expected effect after 28 and 56 days, respectively]. Parameter b* of [+0.09 and +0.11AU (p = 0.439 and p = 0.557), this effect was observed in 59% (13 of 22 subjects) and 32% (7 of 22 subjects) of subjects exhibiting the expected effect after 28 and 56 days, respectively]. The prod- uct induced an average increase in the ITA° of [−0.4 and +0.3AU (p = 0.329 and p = 0.393), this effect was observed in 23% (5 of 22 subjects) and 32% (7 of 22 subjects) of subjects exhibiting the expected effect after 28 and 56 days, respectively]. Antiwrinkle effect. Antioxidants with vitamin A maintain cells and promote a healthy im- mune system, which is known to weaken with age (1,28). The Gac cream signifi cantly decreased wrinkles described in Table IV (p value 0.05) as well as average roughness (Ra) [−0.64 and −0.93 μm after 28 and 56 days (p = 0.048 and p = 0.049), respectively], the average relief (Rz) [−4.32 and −6.48 μm (p = 0.025 and p = 0.014), respectively], and the average relief amplitude (Rt) [−7.45 and −9.28 μm (p = 0.015 and p = 0.011), respec- tively]. Thus, the cream exhibited signifi cant smoothing and antiwrinkle effi cacy. The reduction of skin wrinkles as classifi ed using the colors detected using the device. The blue color represents the deepest areas, followed by green, red, orange and yellow yellow represents the highest areas. It illustrates that deep wrinkles were reduced after 28 days and further reduced after 56 days of Gac cream application illustrated by Figure 6. Gac cream treatment for 56 days signifi cantly improved all parameters. The skin was signifi cantly smoother after 56 days of twice daily application. The skin exhibited wrinkle reduction after 8 weeks of application. Thus, a cream formulation that includes Gac extract can help skin retain water and protect it from oxidative damage. Skin overlook via visia. Gac extract exerts great protective effects against oxidative damage to the skin (9). After product application, the subjects were “overlook checked” using the VISIA machine on day 0, day 28, and day 56. The subjects exhibited signifi cant changes in skin roughness relief as well as skin lightening in Figure 7. Safety test. M. cochinchinensis Spreng or Gac fruit is nontoxic in cosmetic applications (11). The acute skin tolerance for Gac extract (application under an occlusive patch over a 48 h period on adult subjects with normal skin) revealed that this extract is nonirritating at
Previous Page Next Page