RENEWABLE PDO AND PETROLEUM-DERIVED ALKYLENE OXIDES 123 Figure 6. Moisturization change from baseline (in percent). Longer term moisturization evaluations were performed using a total of 12 female sub- jects selected to participate in the evaluation of two moisturizing creams containing both the PDO-based and petroleum PEG-based emulsifi er. Test material was applied twice a day for 3 days. Moisturization and subject self-assessment of product performance was evaluated 8 and 24 h after last application. Equal moisturization performance was seen between emulsions made with PDO- and petroleum PEG-based emulsifi ers. There was a preference for emulsions with PDO-based emulsifi ers in the subject’s self-assessment evaluation. (Clinical moisturization and self-assessment studies done at Clinical Research Laboratories, LLC/Piscataway, NJ.) (Figure 7). FORMULATIONS Examples of a variety of emulsions made with renewable PDO-based emulsifi ers (body lotion with elegant feel, soft moisturizing cream, and rich/smooth body butter) with a range of viscosities and feel on the skin are given in Formulation 4. CONCLUSION Structure/property comparisons were made of renewable PDO-based versus petroleum- based alkylene oxide feedstocks along with their respective polyethers, emulsifi ers, and cosmetic formulations based on these feedstocks. Based on the structure/property com- parisons, the renewable PDO-based chemistry offers advantages over the petroleum-based EO or PO monomers by being renewable, less reactive/can be handled at ambient pres- sures, nonhazardous/safer chemistry for transporting feedstocks by truck/train and in the manufacturing of cosmetic ingredients, PEG free (no residual EO, no residual 1,4-dioxane), Figure 7. Self-assessment.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 124 Formulation 4. A. Body lotion a B. Moisturizing creamb C. Body cbutter % Ingredient % Ingredient % Ingredient 82.9 Water 72.0 Water 70.5 Water 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.25 Xanthan gum 0.25 Xanthan gum 0.25 Xanthan gum 2.5 Glycerin 2.0 Glycerin 3.5 Glycerin 2.45 Propanediol stearate 3.5 PPDO-4 stearate 3.5 PPDO-4 stearate 1.05 PPDO-4/PGLY-3 copolymer sesquistearate 1.5 PPDO-4/PGLY-3 copolymer sesquistearate 1.5 PPDO-4/PGLY-3 copolymer sesquistearate 3.0 Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil 2.5 Cetyl esters 3.0 Cetyl esters 4.0 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) seed oil 5.0 Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil 5.0 Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil 2.0 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) 4.0 Olea Europaea (Olive) oil 4.0 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) seed oil 1.75 Cetearyl alcohol 6.0 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) oil 6.0 Mangifera Indica (Mango) seed butter qs Preservative 3.0 Cetearyl alcohol 3.0 Cetearyl alcohol 0.1 Tocopherol 0.1 Tocopherol qs Preservative Qs Preservative a45,000 cps/stable 1 month at 50° C. b160,000 cps/stable 1 month at 50° C. c360,000 cps/stable 1month at 50° C.
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