216
J. Cosmet. Sci., 74.4, 216–230 (July/August 2023)
*Address all correspondence to Nuzhet Cenk Sesal, csesal@yahoo.com
Endolichenic Fungi Extracts: A Promising Alternative for
Ultraviolet Protection in Cosmetics?
ORCUN TOKSOZ, JAE-SEOUN HUR AND NUZHET CENK SESAL
Institute of Pure and Applied Sciences, Marmara University, Istanbul, Turkey (O.T.)
Korean Lichen Research Institute, Sunchon National University, Suncheon, South Korea (J.H.)
Department of Biology, Faculty of Science, Marmara University, Kadıköy, Istanbul, Turkey (N.C.S.)
Accepted for publication August 13, 2023.
Synopsis
Lichen-derived extracts are a potential source for skin health products due to their antioxidant activity that can
prevent damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays. The slow natural growth and limited reproduction of lichens
limit their use. However, endolichenic fungi (ELF) from lichen thalli can serve as a more efficient, rapid, and
standardized biological resource for the cosmetic industry. We aimed to investigate the UV protection of
Lobaria pulmonaria, Bryoria capillaris, and Usnea sp., and isolated ELF extracts. Total antioxidant, phenolic-
flavonoid content, sun protection factor (SPF), and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of lichen and ELF extracts
were also investigated. As a result, ELF extracts were found to have antioxidant content close to, and in some
cases, much higher than lichen species. While SPF values of lichen species varied between 31.45–31.80, results
close to lichens were found in the range of 6.54–32.01 values of ELF extracts. Interestingly, lichen extracts
did not have tyrosinase inhibitory activity, while some ELF extracts had tyrosinase inhibitory activity in the
range of 2.49–38.44. The results of this study suggest that ELF extracts may have the potential to be used as
innovative UV protectants in the cosmetic industry.
INTRODUCTION
Lasting exposure to harmful solar ultraviolet (UV-C (100–280 nm), UV-B (280–320 nm),
and UV-A (320–400nm)) radiation causes chronic or acute skin damage such as skin cancer,
photoaging, wrinkles, and sunburn.1–3 As a result of photoaging, thickening of the skin,
wrinkles, and chronological damage known as pigmentation occur. In this case, excessive
production of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) is known to cause photoaging,
excessive melanin production, DNA damage, and skin cancer. The mechanism of skin
pigmentation protects the skin from UV damage. Melanin, which causes skin pigmentation,
also protects our skin from UV damage by absorbing UV rays.4,5 However, excessive melanin
production is closely related to problems such as solar lentigo and freckle formation.6,7
Therefore, tyrosinase inhibitors are being investigated for application in cosmetic products
for skin lightening and depigmentation. There are many known tyrosinase inhibitors such
as hydroquinone, arbutin, and kojic acid. However, most of them are reported to have low
J. Cosmet. Sci., 74.4, 216–230 (July/August 2023)
*Address all correspondence to Nuzhet Cenk Sesal, csesal@yahoo.com
Endolichenic Fungi Extracts: A Promising Alternative for
Ultraviolet Protection in Cosmetics?
ORCUN TOKSOZ, JAE-SEOUN HUR AND NUZHET CENK SESAL
Institute of Pure and Applied Sciences, Marmara University, Istanbul, Turkey (O.T.)
Korean Lichen Research Institute, Sunchon National University, Suncheon, South Korea (J.H.)
Department of Biology, Faculty of Science, Marmara University, Kadıköy, Istanbul, Turkey (N.C.S.)
Accepted for publication August 13, 2023.
Synopsis
Lichen-derived extracts are a potential source for skin health products due to their antioxidant activity that can
prevent damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays. The slow natural growth and limited reproduction of lichens
limit their use. However, endolichenic fungi (ELF) from lichen thalli can serve as a more efficient, rapid, and
standardized biological resource for the cosmetic industry. We aimed to investigate the UV protection of
Lobaria pulmonaria, Bryoria capillaris, and Usnea sp., and isolated ELF extracts. Total antioxidant, phenolic-
flavonoid content, sun protection factor (SPF), and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of lichen and ELF extracts
were also investigated. As a result, ELF extracts were found to have antioxidant content close to, and in some
cases, much higher than lichen species. While SPF values of lichen species varied between 31.45–31.80, results
close to lichens were found in the range of 6.54–32.01 values of ELF extracts. Interestingly, lichen extracts
did not have tyrosinase inhibitory activity, while some ELF extracts had tyrosinase inhibitory activity in the
range of 2.49–38.44. The results of this study suggest that ELF extracts may have the potential to be used as
innovative UV protectants in the cosmetic industry.
INTRODUCTION
Lasting exposure to harmful solar ultraviolet (UV-C (100–280 nm), UV-B (280–320 nm),
and UV-A (320–400nm)) radiation causes chronic or acute skin damage such as skin cancer,
photoaging, wrinkles, and sunburn.1–3 As a result of photoaging, thickening of the skin,
wrinkles, and chronological damage known as pigmentation occur. In this case, excessive
production of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) is known to cause photoaging,
excessive melanin production, DNA damage, and skin cancer. The mechanism of skin
pigmentation protects the skin from UV damage. Melanin, which causes skin pigmentation,
also protects our skin from UV damage by absorbing UV rays.4,5 However, excessive melanin
production is closely related to problems such as solar lentigo and freckle formation.6,7
Therefore, tyrosinase inhibitors are being investigated for application in cosmetic products
for skin lightening and depigmentation. There are many known tyrosinase inhibitors such
as hydroquinone, arbutin, and kojic acid. However, most of them are reported to have low
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