336 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS blood of the practitioners' library, books are, of course, essential for reference. Certain well-known works by Poucher, Parry, Gilde- meister and Hoffmann, and others are not discussed here because they have been replaced by up-to- date, modern compilations. There are now available several com- prehensive treatises giving full de- tails on all raw materials, practical topics, and concise explanations of all basic scientific principles bearing upon cosmetics. Partic- ularly worthy of note in the cosmetic field are Harry's "The Principles and Practice of Modern Cosmetics" (4) and deNavarre's "The Chem- istry and Manufacture of Cos- metics" (5). Harry's work con- sists of two volumes, the first en- titled "Modern Cosmeticology." The author stresses the scientific and therapeutic side of cosmetics and gives a good account of the chemical and physical basis of this subject. Numerous formulas are provided as well as the technical. details of their manufacture. The companion vol- ume, known as "Cosmetic Mate- rials," has arranged alphabetically in monograph form the mass of mixed information condensed from trade and scientific journals and commercial brochures concerning the basic materials used in modern cosmetic formulation. The novelty of this dictionary lies in the atten- tion devoted to the dermatological action of each material. No such work has appeared dealing essen- tially with this aspect. It is a book of first-rate importance. The major part of deNavarre's book is devoted to the chemistry of cosmetics. An excellent feature is the inclusion at the end of each chapter of a digest of patents for the specific product discussed. A practical handbook outlining the formulation and production of cos- metics is Thomssen's "Modern Cos- metics" (6) which is the third edi- tion of Chilson's book of the same title. There is no description here of the chemical aspects of the subject or the bacteriological or physiological principles involved. As far as production methods and the manufacturing approach are concerned, it is the best practical book since Poucher. The perfumery field has made several outstanding contributions to its literary resources within the past decade. Prior to 1948, the most up-to-date comprehensive treatise on essential oils was the German classic by Glidemeister and Hoffmann of which the third edition appeared in the early thirties. Recently Ernest Guenther and collaborators have issued four of the proposed five volumes of "The Essential Oils" (7). The first two volumes provide a vo- luminous up-to-date and reliable reference on the production, con- stituents, and analysis of these perfumery raw materials. Volumes 3 and 4 contain monographs on individual volatile oils. Those of technical and commercial value are given preferential and detailed treatment. For each oil there are data covering the history, produc-

SOURCES OF INFORMATION FOR THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY 337 tion techniques and statistics, ana- lytical characters and as much detail of chemical composition as is avail- able. There is no doubt that this monumental and authoritative work will rank as the standard text on essential oils. An unusually instructive study is Naves' and Mazuyer's "Natural Perfume Materials" (8) which deals with all the phases of these impor- tant substances. The synthetic aromatics have been discussed by Moncrieff in "Chemistry of Perfumery Mate- rials" (9) and by West in "Synthetic Perfumes" (10). The Moncrieff volume is particularly useful for he gives much information on the odor characteristics of perfumery chemicals. The next contribution to the field will be Paul Bedoukian's "Perfumery Synthetics and Iso- lates" (11) soon to be released. An extremely valuable compen- dium which has been heralded as an outstanding event in perfumery chemistry is the "Givaudan Index" (12) recently published by the Givaudan-Delawanna, Inc. This reference book furnishes data on physical constants, analytical pro- cedures, and suggested uses of synthetics and isolates for per- fumery. Other leading perfumery material producers also publish use- ful reference works. Two well- known glossaries are Fritzsche Brothers' "Perfumers' Handbook and Catalog" (13) and Polak and Schwarz's "Synthetic Perfumes" (14). The New York firm of Schim- mel & Co. made a contribution to the industry with its 1945 Annual Report (15) on essences, oils, aro- matic chemicals, and related mate- rials. Last year the 1946 report was issued and some time this month the combined 1947-1948 review will be released. Comprehensive reviews of prog- ress in research in the field of perfumery are made annually by Paul Bedoukian and published in /linerican Perruiner. The sixth yearly report appeared in the March through May, 1950, issues (16). Developments in the analytical chemistry of essential oils and re- lated products have been reviewed by Ernest Guenther and presented as part of the symposium entitled "Annual Review of Analytical Chemistry" and published in the )•ournal of ?lna/ytica/ Chemistry for 1949 and 1950 (17). This survey of applications of analyti- cal developments is planned as a yearly feature. Information on the testing of cosmetic raw materials and finished products has only recently become available. The Food and Drug Administration is constantly work- ing on the development of special methods of analysis applicable to cosmetics, and these data are published in the )•ournal of the ?lssociation of the O•ficial Atgri- cultural Chemists. No book exists containing analytica•l methods needed in the cosmetic industry. However, deNavarre published a series of articles entitled "Pro- duction Control and the Analysis of Cosmetics" (18) which appeared