338 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS in the ztmerican Perfumer from March, 1944, to August, 1945, inclusive. A vast amount of data has been assembled from many sources and these articles represent a summary of this information. Standardization of analytical pro- cedures and specifications for raw materials are found in the standards and specifications issued by the Essential Oil Association (19) and the Toilet Goods Association (20). The more elusive phenomena of taste and smell, subjects in great need of interpretive analysis, have been given rare treatment by Mon- crieff in "The Chemical Senses" (21). This book includes separate chapters on the sense organs taste and smell the chemical constitu- tion with reference to odor and taste and physical properties of odorous materials. McCord and Witheridge have authored the book entitled "Odors: Physiology and Control" (22). There is not a great deal in this volume about perfumery and cosmetics, but Chap- ter 5 on odor detection and measure- ment is good since it describes and compares the different instruments that have been designed for odor assessment. The subject of flavor, including both its theoretical and practical sides, is treated by Crocker in his book of that title (23). Data re- garding substances added to foods to improve its color or flavor and also to preserve its natural proper- ties have been gathered together by Jacobs to compose the volume "Synthetic Food Adjuncts" (24). The volume of literature on specific ingredients used in cosmetic preparations is staggering. Tech- nical studies of recent years cover- ing the properties and every aspect of production, testing, and appli- cation in the cosmetic industry have been published for such prod- ucts as oils, fats, waxes, gums, and resins. Gillespie's work on wool wax (25) is of considerable interest to the cosmetic manufacturer. Leffingwell and Lesser's practical treatise on glycerin (26) contains a discussion of the properties which make it useful for the cosmetic industry. The new book on bees- wax (27) by Root is the only volume published in the last fifty years in the English language devoted to this product. The chapter on bees- wax in cosmetics lists numerous formulas for the manufacture of various cosmetic preparations. The technical aspects of white mineral oil and petrolatum and its application in cosmetics are treated adequately by Meyer in his recent book on the subject (28). Surface-active agents have be- come the most important cosmetic raw ingredients and the number of such commercially available materials is tremendous. Several monographs summarizing the theo- retical considerations, manufacture, and practical applications will par- ticularly appeal to the industry. The books by Schwartz and Perry (29), Thomssen and McCutcheon (30), and Young (31) all contain comprehensive alphabetical lists of these agents, with the name of
SOURCES OF INFORMATION FOR THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY 339 manufacturer, a statement of class and formula, approximate concen- tration, and comment on appli- cation. Two punched card files containing about 300 cards each in the original set appeared in 1947, one issued by McCutcheon (32) and the other by the Research Advisory Corporation (33). Both services classify the host of surface-active agents on the market, and bring the information up to date by issuing additional cards from time to time. Antiseptics are widely used in cosmetic products: as mouth washes, in toothpastes, shave lo- tions, shampoos, and body deo- dorants. The mechanism and eval- uation of these materials have been the subject of a symposium and published this year as part of the Arnnals of the New York Arcademy of Sciences (34). Carl Lawrence has done a great service by producing a book reviewing the quaternary ammonium germicides (35). There is a concluding section which tabulates these compounds in the manner described for the surface-active agents. The same service has been done for the almost bewildering assortment of emulsi- fying agents available for cosmetic use. Spalton's little book entitled "Pharmaceutical Emulsions and Enmlsifying Agents" (36) classifies over 300 of these materials. PERIODICAL LITERATURE Apart from a limited number of standard reference books, most of the published technical information is to be found in the form of articles in journals and other periodicals. A statistical analysis of chemical periodicals in the field of pharma- ceutical, cosmetic, and perfume chemistry was made by Boig and Brown to determine which ones seem to be most important for this field (37). It was found that, in 1947, the most important United States publications were: )•ournal of the Armerican Pharmaceutical Arssociation, Armerican Perfumer, )•ournal of the Arssociation of O•- cial Argricultural Chemists, and Drug • Cosmetic Industry. The leading world publication was the Russian Farmatsiya. Other journals of im- portance were: tk)r England, the Pharmaceutical •ournal, o•uarterly )•ournal ooe Pharmacy and Pharma- cology, and Soap, Perfumery, Cos- metics for France, Arnnales Pharma- ceutiques Franfaises and Industrie de la Parfumerie. This latter journal is of recent origin having first appeared in 1946. Each issue contains technical arti- cles and an excellent documentation section giving abstracts of articles appearing in other journals. We are all familiar with THE JouRNax. O1• THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEM- ISTS which made its first appearance in July, 1947. The Toilet Goods Association started publication of its Proceedings in 1944. This year we saw the birth of a new journal entitled International Perfumer, a quarterly review of world progress and research in perfumery mate- rials. It is not the normal type of trade journal, but its stated object is to consist entirely of original
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