The Address of the President to the British!Society, I954 LOOKING AT THINGS By ROBERT H. MARRIOTT, D.Sc.* I suPPOSE that if a cosmetic chemist, appearing on "What's My Line," were to mime his craft he would rub the back of one hand with a finger and gaze earnestly at the rubbed portion of his skin. This operation is probably the most used one in a cosmetic factory and by its frequency the technician becomes so observant of small variations that this act tells his brain a story which if it could be carried out by means of cunningly devised pieces of apparatus would probably require the expenditure of many hours of time. In fact, what it amounts to is that the eye and the hand, properly trained, can extract from things a host of attributes which the mind can assess in a sort of statistical appraisement in a matter of seconds. Unfortunately, however, the direct observational method is a subjective approach and can give only values relative to some standard within the mind of the observer. This standard can never be described precisely by words or figures so that it has to be passed on from one person to another by direct example and exposition. The maestro can do no more than to teach how to look at some- thing, and what to look for after having shown by example how to recognise specific things. In spite of all these disabilities one is bound to employ such methods. The great point, however, is to know "how to look." It is almost a truism to say that the interested person will always see most. An enthusiastic photographer will see more in a photograph than the man in the street. He will examine the tone ranges, and can immediately tell whether the exposure of the plate and/or the print were correct, whether the type of emulsion was suitable for the subject, the developer and developing were right. He can quickly discern faults and knows the reason and how to rectify the faulty print, and what to do the next time to avoid the defects. If he is also artistic, he can adjudicate on the composition of the picture and being in this position he can indicate how the photograph ought to have been taken both from position and time of the day or even which day. All these things are easy when one knows how to look. Good looking is really the co-ordination of the brain with the eye. Because this co-ordination is subconscious its importance is often overlooked. It's a "natural." How many people realise that the subconscious mind differentiates between the variations in quality between the two eyes ? Given even conditions the "natural" eye to use, say, in a monocular micro- scope or a telescope, is automatic. If the left eye is automatically chosen it is * County Laboratories, Ltd., Stanmore, Mddx. 151

JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS because the left eye is better than the right. In the instance, of course, of a rifle the choice depends on the left- or right-handedness of the individual and may, therefore, demand the use of the poorer eye. The training of the eye to observe, that is to be able to see all the detail and by looking to discern subtle differences which, passed on to the brain, enable inferences of form, quality, colour and all those properties of matter which are intrinsic attributes can only be achieved by practice. Perhaps of all the common instruments used in the laboratory, the microscope is the one which epitomises this point. Perhaps, too, the microscope is the one which is most used with faulty technique. It is somewhat outside the scope of this talk to discuss microscopy--certainly there is no time--but it will suffice to say that if the microscope be employed as a scientific instrument and not merely as a magnifying glass, and the principles on which it works are known, then the observant looker will discern things which are over- looked by the gazer, and an appreciation of quality and form will be carried to the brain. Wrongly used the eye will detect artefacts the trained eye will distinguish them from reality. Perhaps it would be permissible here to draw attention to the use of the simple magnifier. If such a "microscope" is to be used--and they are extremely useful beware of buying one which magnifies too much. Don't buy one which enlarges x 10, 12 or 20. Get one x 6 or x 8, and make sure it is aplanatic and achromatic. High magnification prevents one from seeing the wood for the trees. In the same way always use the lowest power of a microscope which will enable the detail to be seen. To revert to the opening paragraph. It will be apparent that "looking" at a cream by spreading it over the back of the hand, the expert watches the way it rubs into a thin film. Note is taken of the ease of spreading, whether it liquefies or not, whether aeration has occurred during manufacture or arises because the film entrains air. If the cream is a pigmented one, do the particles streak or are they gritty so that they protrude out of the film. Does the i51m dry too quickly or does it remain too long on the skin. Some- times creams "roll," a property which is nearly always quite undesirable. In all these and many other effects, the eye passes the message to the brain and it gives a reliable assessment of quality. It is, of course, true that in addition to the message from the eyes, the sense of touch has also contributed towards the final judgement. Looking can mean more than a visual or optical method. One can look at things, thoughts and living creatures with one's eyes shut. Very often it is a good plan, although it often requires great courage, to look at oneself. This particular mode of looking can be very illuminating, although taken too far it may lead to such serious introspection that its consequences may completely override its benefits. Be that as it may, the essence of looking at anything depends on whether the looking gives a guide to answering one or more of these questions: 152