PERFUMERY AND COSMETICS IN ANCIENT AND MODERN INDIA Legend has it that attar of roses was a discovery of Noor Jeha, the wife of the Moghul Emperor Jehangir, whose son--Shah Jehan--will live in history as the builder of the Taj Mahal. It is told how Noor Jehan was accustomed to having fresh rose-petals strewn in her bath, and that one day she observed on the surface of the bath-water a thin, oily film which had a delightful fragrance. The story goes on that she had the oil extracted and that this was the origin of attar of roses. No claim is made here for the authenticity of this story, but it does seem more pleasant to swallow than a newspaper story, perhaps, that some hirsute comrade from the other side of the Iron Curtain had invented it as part of the 5-year plan ! Sandalwood is, of course, one of the most important aromatics of India, and it has always played a very considerable part in Indian life. Sandalwood oil had always been greatly valued as an astringent, and was often taken internally as a diuretic. It has been used in many forms: sometimes the wood was burned because of its fragrant smoke it was also used in the form of an oil or a paste. Ceremonial bathing for purification purposes played a great part in ancient Indian life, and the ablutions of the wealthy were often enriched by the addition of sandalwood extracts. To-day, the oil-bath is still a regular feature in Indian life, particularly with South Indians. The oil normally used may be mustard oil, coconut oil or gingelly oil, generally dependent on its availability and cheapness. It is believed that Pliny referred to Til (or gingelly) oil imported into Europe from the East. The Indian considers that the oil-bath, in addition to being a skin-tonic, refreshes him physically and mentally. After the oil-bath a further washing takes place, generally using soapnut powder. Soapnuts are readily available in South India, and the housewife has these ground into powder at the nearest mill. These small mills, which generally have a number of grinding machines, grind up such commodities, in addition to soapnuts, as rice, turmeric and other spices for cooking purposes. The Hindu is a great lover of perfumes, particularly at ceremonials and functions. At marriages, in addition to incense, sandalwood and other perfumes are liberally dispersed in the marriage hall to add to the pleasant- ness of the proceedings. Muslims have always been great lovers of perfumes, and at ceremonies use incense composed, amongst other things, of benzoin, aloes, sandalwood and patchouli. It used to be a common custom for a Muslim bride to be presented with a Singardan or toilet bag containing a phial of attar of roses, a rose-water bottle, a box of spices, soorma for blackening the eyelids, kohl for darkening eyelashes, comb, mirror and a pan-dan. Pan-dans are still in wide use to-day: these are boxes, often of great beauty and value, containing pan leaves and spices for chewing. The pan leaf (Piper betel) is rolled with the spices and, when chewed, has a very strong astringent action on the mouth. It is most usually chewed after meals: a Muslim hostess will roll pan leaves 203

JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS for her guests after their meals are over, and will often carry her pan-dan when travelling or visiting. It is not surprising that perfumes and aromatics have always been so popular in India, in view of the fact that so many raw materials are native to the country: patchouli, ginger-grass, lemon-grass, palmarosa, vetivert, etc. Khus-khus, from which vetivert is obtained, provides one of the many methods used in India to alleviate the rigours of the hot climate. A large mat is woven from the khus-khus grass and hung over doorways and windows, so as to permit any breeze that there is to pass through the grass before entering the room. These mats are kept soaked in water, generally by a small boy throwing the water from a can over the mat, and the cool and fragrant breeze that results is delightful. The production of finished products from these raw materials has never been on the scientific basis known to modern European perfume manu- facturers. However, considerable advances have been made in recent years, particularly in the manufacture of vetivert oil. The medicinal and perfumery values of vetivert have been known in India from time immemorial, and there were various references to it in ancient Ayurvedic treatises (the Indian native medical code). The Kerala Soap Institute in Calicut began a study of its cultivation and production in the year 1943, and a paper on this subject was published in the American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review of August, 1949. In the writers' soap factory they have used vetivert oil produced on the west coast of India, and have been extremely satisfied with its quality in every way. There are a number of attempts being made to increase the effective production of essential oils in India, and it is expected that these efforts will increase, particularly as it is the policy of the Indian Government to encourage indigenous industry. The care of the hair is undertaken by Indian women from very early childhood, and considerable time is spent by them in fostering its healthy growth. They take great pride and pleasure in increasing the natural beauty of the hair by plaiting it in various styles and adorning the coiffure with fresh flowers. Kalidasa, often referred to as the Shakespeare of India, suggested several flowers for the perfuming and beautification of the hair generally, some of which are: Bakula--Mumusops elangi--also called keshara: a sweet-scented flower of the narcissus type. Champaka--Michelia champaka--kadamba--Nauclea kadamba, also called Nipa. The tree attains a height of 70-80 ft. and bears orange blossoms. Kunda--Jasminium multifiorum. Malati--Jasminium grandifiorum--a fragrant flower of the Jasmin class. and the Rose. 204