ABSTRACTS 3 5 5 Process development techniques for creams and lotions George Haas, Clairol, Inc., 2 Blachley Road, Stam- ford, CT 06922 Can pilot plant scale-up predict the plant perfor- mance in the manufacture of creams and lotions? Although the answer is not always sound judgment an examination of the relevant variables can increase the probability for success. The author will present several case histories of unexpected problems that occurred in production. Having illustrated the danger of simplifying assumptions, the focus will be on the test methods that can prevent problems from occurring, as well as investigational methods that can be helpful in problem solving. To have a good emulsion you must start with a good formula. The process cannot be a band-aid for a formula problem. However, many a good formula has been compromised by an inadequate process. Hence every good product deserves a good process. First production--A disaster avoidance ap- proach for make-up Frank S. Tyminski and Michael K. Waltz, Noxell Corp., 11050 York Rd., Hunt Valley, MD 21030- 2098 The initial production of cosmetic formulations presented to a commercial manufacturing facility is usually unreliable. Most conditions for manufacture and filling are difficult, if not impossible, to dupli- cate on a bench scale. Pilot scale experimentation of bench-developed prototypes affords flexible selec- tion and testing of equipment prior to the first pro- duction manufacture of formulations. This discus- sion will focus on a useful approach to assist in avoiding first production failures. Organization of the start-up team, equipment selection, and a few case histories demonstrating the value and potential shortcomings involved in production start-ups of a new formula will be highlighted. Circumvention of pitfalls in the production of cosmetic sticks John J. Margres and Jean S. Tykowski, Reheis Chemical Company, 235 Snyder Ave., Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922 It is the contention of this paper that the most dam- aging culprits in the formulation of cosmetic sticks are atypical. We base this contention upon the premise that while the expertise of today's formu- lators show them as well-schooled, the ever-present danger of not fully interpreted or considered factors employed is paramount in product failure. Our contention will be exemplified by an in-depth chronological review of the technology incorporated in the formulation of today's most successful stick carrier form, the antiperspirant suspensoid stick. This review will highlight the fact that the success of this carrier form was achieved not only through the use of basic formulation technology, but also by the total consideration of all parameters involved. Our contention will then also be further reinforced by considering a number of less successful stick for- mulations, which employed proper formulation techniques but failed due to a lack of consideration of all factors involved. SESSION E GENERAL PAPERS Hair coloring by melanin--A novel system for imparting durable yet reversible color effects K. Brown, A. Mayer, B. Murphy, T. Schultz, and L. Wolfram, Clairol Research Laboratories, 2 Blachley Rd.• Stamford• CT 06922 The chemical nature of the dyes to be used in a hair coloring product is frequently determined by the functional purpose of that product. Thus, the class of permanent hair colorants utilizes colorless dye precursors in combination with hydrogen peroxide to form and entrap within the hair structure highly durable color moieties. A wide range of shades is obtained including those lighter than the natural hair color. Semi-permanent and temporary color- ants rely on conventional dyes which, in the case of the semi-permanents, are driven into the hair by the diffusion process, while those in the temporary category are left primarily on the hair surface. This paper describes an altogether different approach to hair coloration. It is based on formation within the hair of deposits of melanin pigment, very similar in its chemical character to that present in, and re- sponsible for, color of natural hair. The hair col- oring process in this case consists of two steps: a shampoo step during which a catalyst is introduced into the hair structure and, following a rinse, treat- ment with an aqueous solution of colorless melanin precursors such as 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its de- rivatives. The coloring process is usually completed with 5-10 minutes. The melanin deposits are formed in the peripheral regions of hair and thus are readily available for color modulation or even total removal. In vitro transepidermal water loss measure- ments to evaluate moisturizing properties of ethoxylated coconut and tallow mono- and di- glycerides L. M. Mullen, A. Sakr, J. L. Lichtin, R. F. Mar-

356 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS tiny, and J. G. Fuller, University of Cincinnati, College of Pharmacy, Mail Location 4, Cincinnati, OH 45267 (L.M.M., A.S., J.L.L.), and Sherex Chemical Co., P.O. Box 646, Dublin, OH 43017 (R.F.M., J.G.F.) The purpose of this research was to evaluate the prevention of transepidermal water loss of a series of ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides derived from coconut oil and tallow triglyceride in which the ex- tent of ethoxylation was varied. The water loss was measured by the ServoMed Evaporimeter using a nylon film as the in vitro substrate. In this study the coconut oil derivatives outperformed those from tallow triglycerides as moisturizers. Performance properties of petrolatum, mineral oil, propylene glycol, and glycerine as moisturizers are also com- pared with those of the ethoxylated mono- and di- glycerides. Effect of ch!orination at varied pH levels on hair properties N. B. Fair and B. S. Gupta, University of Mis- souri-Columbia, Columbia, MD 652 ! ! (N.B.F.), and North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC 27695-8301 (B.S.G.) The results of a study of the effect of chlorination at varied pH on selected physical properties of human hair fibers are presented. The hair was treated in 10-ppm chlorine solutions at either pH 2, 7, or 10 for durations of up to 30 hours. Acid chlorination produced the greatest and most rapid change in in- terfiber friction, surface morphology, weight loss, and reduction in force required to extend wet fibers 20%. Chlorination at pH 7 produced a more gradual change in these properties. Alkaline chlor- ination produced little significant change in the properties examined. Glycosaminog!ycans--Properties and interest for the cosmetics industry Alain Huc, Bioetica S.A., 32, rue St. Jean de Dieu, 69007 Lyon, France These substances are present in all connective tissues and are composed of disaccharidic units which may be classified in two categories: structural glycosaminoglycans and secretory glycosamino- glycans. Our research team has developed original methods to bring out the biological properties of glycosaminoglycans, i.e., their hydrating action, their effect upon cells and, their antiproteasic ac- tivity. The effect on cellular development has been evaluated by culture on a stand coated with glycos- aminoglycans, and the antiproteasic activity has been determined by observing, through electric conductivity, the degradation of the collagen by collagenase in the presence of mucopolysaccharides. These mucopolysaccharide properties have been confirmed in vivo by the effect on skin and hair of finished products containing these active principles. It has been demonstrated that a non-hydrating emulsified base could be rendered hydrating by adding a solution of chondroitine 4 sulfate, and that the hydration level of the stratum corneum could be significantly improved by applying the same prepa- ration during a week. Moreover, it has been brought out that a 5% chondroitine 4 sulfate solu- tion increases oxygen consumption by the cells of a mouse liver homogenate, thus clearly certifying the activity exercised upon the cellular metabolism. This property is essentially used in preparations for hair treatment. Such mucopolysaccharide prepara- tions stimulate hair regeneration and slow down the process of failing out. Glycosaminoglycans may also be contained in anti-wrinkle cosmetics on account of their regenerating effect on the skin. Finally, glycosaminoglycans are substances that are free from antigenicity and are very well tolerated in consequence. Glycosaminoglycans are natural products destined to play a very important role in cosmetics on account of their remarkable biocom- patibility, their hydrating properties and regener- ating effect on skin and hair. SESSION F NEW RAW MATERIALS/TECHNOLOGY Effect of acylglutamate on hair by image anal- ysis Kazutami Sakamoto, Ph.D., Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc., Glenpointe Centre West, 500 Frank W. Burr Blvd., Teaneck, NJ 07666-6894 Acylglutamate is an anionic surfactant derived from L-glutamic acid and fatty acid. Excellent mildness and sufficient detergency has been found in acyl- glutamate. Such characteristic properties depend on the molecular structure of acylglutamate containing a weak acidic pH, such as that found in skin. Sub- stantial cuticle care properties are found from hairs treated by acylglutamate from the scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Image analysis was applied for the SEM photographs. A statistically significant ef- fect for protecting hair from chemical treatments such as permanent waving are found by using acylglutamate. The absorption of acylglutamate by the hair is measured using radioactive materials. This absorption amount of acylglutamate is larger than that of sodium dodecylsulphate (SDS), but far smaller than cationic surfactants. As a result, func- tional properties of acylglutamate to protect the hair cuticle were found. It is assumed that such properties are attributed to the peptide-type struc- ture of acylglutamate.