ABSTRACTS 357 Quatrisoft •i• Polymer LM-200: A unique sub- stantive conditioner for skin and hair Joseph P. Pavlichko, Amerchol Corporation, 136 Talmadge Rd., P.O. Box 4051, Edison, NJ 08818-4051 Quatrisoft © Polymer LM-200 (Polyquaternium-24) is a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hy- droxyethyl cellulose reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, thus combining a hydrophilic cellulosic backbone with cationic lipo- philic lauryl pendant groups. This unique structure accounts for the exceptionally high level of substan- tivity to keratin substrates (skin and hair). The non-tacky film that is formed has been demon- strated by ESCA techniques to deposit uniformly on hair from root to tip without excessive buildup. The substantive character of Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 helps to condition the skin under a protec- tive coating. The hydrophobic modification of the hydrophilic cellulosic backbone gives Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 surfactanvproperdes •hieh in- crease the stability of aerosol foams as well as o/w emulsions. In the presence of salts, betaines, alkan- olamides, and amide oxides, Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 synergistically enhances the viscosity of anionic surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and alpha-olefin sulfonate. Examples of skin and hair care formulations will also be presented. A new concept in cosmetic emulsions R. Y. Lochhead, W.J. Hemker, and J. Y. Cas- taneda, BFGoodrich Technical Center, P.O. Box 122, Avon Lake, OH 44012 The objective of many moisturizing lotions is to de- posit an occlusive oil film on the skin in order to retard trans-epidermal water loss. Soap-stabilized emulsions, which represent the largest class of cos- metic lotions, however, tend to progress through lyotropic mesophases upon drying on the skin and, since these gel-like mesophases do not spread easily on the substrate tissue, the development of an oc- clusive barrier is delayed or prevented. This short- coming can be overcome by primary emulsification with hydrophobically modified carbomers. Emul- sions so formed display excellent stability upon storage but break instantly when they contact skin, to release the emulsified oil which spontaneously spreads over the skin to form an occlusive barrier. This paper will present the fundamentals of this new emulsification mechanism and its implications for cosmetic lotion formulations. New substantive humectants Geoffrey J. Brooks, Brooks Industries Inc., 70 Tyler Place, South Plainfield, NJ 07080 Two new types of substantive humectants--Qua- ternized Acetamide Mea (Quamectant(tm) AM-50) and Quaternized Lactamide Mea (Quamectant(tm) LAME-60) which show substantivity to the hair-- will be discussed. The chemistry of these inter- esting new materials will be described. The safety and toxicity will be reviewed. Their humectant properties will be compared to the parent com- pounds and other conventional humectants. Data showing substantivity to the hair will be outlined. Their novel cosmetic properties, especially in hair care formulation will be discussed. Consumer use data will show their ability to impart softness without heaviness to the hair from conditioners, and, when formulated into shampoos, their ability to control static flyaway and to leave the hair soft and springy after shampooing without affecting the shampoo's foaming properties adversely. Surfadone © surfactants--From research to reality Michael W. Hetioff, GAFChemicals Corl•., t364 Alps Rd., Wayne, NJ 07470 Surfadone • complexing surfactants represent the latest GAF development, combining our expertise in surface chemistry with our unique capability in acetylene chemistry. Surfadone • products are a new class of surfactants that utilize the highly polar pyrrolidone ring as the hydrophile. The pyrrolidone ring imparts unique complexing ability to these surfactants. Laboratory and salon evaluations show that these materials reduce hair damage when used with hair bleaches, colorants, and permanent wave formulations. They also have multi-functional at- tributes in traditional hair care, skin care, and nail care preparations. New cosmetic applications for behenyl deriva- tives Graham Barker, Granum Inc., 1611 Berdam Ave., Fairlawn, NJ 07410 Behenic acid surfactants (C22 types) are lower in irritation and toxicity than their lower-chain coun- terparts that are now being used in the cosmetic industry. These new behenyl surfactants will allow the formulator to create extremely mild personal care products with improved functional properties. The speaker will demonstrate the use of these sur- factants in the formulation of deodorant sticks, mild lotions, creams, antiperspirant sticks, etc. He will also discuss the unusual properties that can be obtained with these behenyl-based surfactants. Dermatosenso•'y profile©: An assessment of skin feel characteristics Louise B. Aust, Hill Top Research, Inc., 7506 East Monterey Way, Scottsdale, Arizona 85251

358 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Skin care products have traditionally been evaluated for clinical efficacy using one of a series of methods. In addition to these clinical tests, several bioengi- neering techniques have been used to measure or record some aspect of the skin. This presentation describes a sensory or descriptive analysis approach for evaluating skin care products. A trained group of individuals evaluate the perceived attributes of skin care products such as lotions and creams, bar soaps, liquid soaps, surgical scrubs, shaving prepa- rations, shampoos, and antiperspirants. By using reference standards and defined attributes, the panel is able to measure the relative intensities of each attribute on a numerical scale. This process can greatly assist product formulators and cosmetic chemists to analyze and compare products for the presence and intensity of skin feel attributes. The information obtained can assist in claims support, reformulation efforts, and a number of other appli- cations. Synthetic phospholipids in personal care appli- cations Dennis L. Fost, Ph.D., Mona Industries Inc., 76 E. 24th St., P.O. Box 425, Paterson, NJ 07544 Phospholipids are one of the key components of epidermal cellular membranes, and because of their ability to form bilayer structures, help control the fluidity and permeability of epidermal cells. The outermost cells of the epidermis, i.e., the stratum comeurn, are incapable of repairing their mem- branes once they become damaged, but there is evi- dence that they can benefit from exogenous applica- tion of phospholipids by cellular hydration and res- toration of the lipid moisture barrier. A new series of synthetic phospholipids, namely the Monaquat P series, is presented with emphasis on the stearyl de- rivative, Monaquat P-TS (stearamidopropyl PG di- monium chloride phosphate). This product has been shown to be quite useful in the formulation of cosmetic creams and lotions. Data to be presented include transepidermal water loss, cellular damage, and skin pH recovery studies, and a variety of for- mulations will be given to illustrate its versatility as a primary cationic emulsifier. Velsans--Multifunctional emollient esters Elizabeth P. Noble, Sandoz Chemical Corp., 4000 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 Using molecular modeling techniques and extensive tactile evaluations, a new line of alkoxylated esters have been generated by Sandoz. The products are designed to provide a high level of emolliency and mildness while at the same time exhibiting some surfactancy and other properties. Their multifunc- tional properties include solubilization of benzo- phenones, fragrance solubilization, and secondary emulsification. Molecular modeling was used to predict the optimal alkoxylate ratios. Eastman © AQ polymer--A unique dispersant for hydrophobic materials Michael J. Idacavage, Ph.D., Eastman Chemical Products, Inc., P.O. Box 431, B-230, Kingsport, TN 37662 Eastman AQ polymers are high molecular weight, amorphous, thermoplastic polyesters that disperse directly into water without the assistance or organic cosolvents, surfactants or neutralizing amines/al- kalis. The family of AQ polymers, ranging in glass transition temperature from 29 to 55øC, readily form hard, clear films exhibiting good adhesion to a variety of substrates. AQ polymers function as dis- persing agents themselves, making possible the preparation of unique dispersions of a wide range of hydrophobic materials. Stable dispersions of cyclo- methicone have been prepared in a ratio of 100 parts of cyclomethicone to 1 part of AQ 55 polymer at 50% solids level. The procedure involves the ad- dition of the oil to a dispersion of AQ polymer during high shear agitation. The scope of hydro- phobic materials which can be dispersed by this procedure include dimethicone, essential oils, vege- table oils, and waxes. Depending on the ratio of hydrophobe to AQ polymer, the product can range from a clear film containing the hydrophobe to a water dispersion of the hydrophobe using the AQ polymer as dispersing aid.