j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 377-379 (November/December 1989) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meeting and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publi- cations Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in the Journal.--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Seminar May 10-11, 1990 San Francisco Hilton on Hilton Square San Francisco Program arranged by the Society's Committee on Scientific Affairs Anne Wolven-Garrett (A.M. Wolven, Inc.), Chair, 1990 SESSION A INTERACTION BETWEEN RAW MATERIAL SUPPLIERS AND FORMULATORS Optimizing the formulator-supplier relation- ship Peter J. Kaufmann, Almay, Inc., 1501 Williams- boro St., Oxford, NC 27565 The relationship between the cosmetic chemist and the raw material supplier, will be examined empha- sizing ways to optimize the productivity of both. Current trends in the cosmetic and related indus- tries will be examined, forming the basis for sug- gestions on improving the partnership between chemists and raw material suppliers in the develop- ment of new personal care products. Technical interactions between supplier and customer Duane G. Krzysik, Dow Corning Corporation, 2200 W. Salzburg Rd., Midland, MI 48686 It is the purpose of this paper to touch on current interactions between suppliers of specialty chem- icals and their customers, mainly product develop- ment chemists. We will then discuss some of the apparent difficulties of this relationship and suggest possible alternatives that will help make both the supplier and the customer more successful. Gaining and maintaining a competitive edge will be a key factor to success in the 1990s. Competition will be tough not only for the supplier but also for the customer. Consumers at every level are be- coming more educated, and with that education comes increased expectations. To meet these expectations, significant advance- ments will be made in cosmetic science as well as in related fields such as dermatology. This will require more complex interactions and development be- tween suppliers and customers. It is this interac- tion, however, that will be a key factor in new product development, commercialization, and, ul- timately, market success. A Realistic toxicological profile for new cos- metic ingredients Howard I. Maibach, M.D., Department of Derma- tology, University of California Medical Center, San Francisco When exciting new cosmetic ingredients are being introduced into the consumer skin and hair care market, both the supplier and the cosmetic manu- facturer want to be sure that consumers using their new product can realize the benefits of the product with minimal risk. Early evaluation of individual ingredients based on experience and testing, where required, will prevent unexpected and expensive problems late in the product development process. New materials can be evaluated first by comparing chemical structure with known classes of irritants and sensitizers. These comparisons will help the cosmetic product developer and the supplier to de- termine together whether minimal or extensive tox- icological testing is desirable. Once the final proto- 377

378 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS type product has been selected, a series of skin toxi- cological tests are available however, the selection of a reasonable combination of tests will depend on product use: skin care or hair care, single use or continuous use, probable site of application, prob- able misuse, intended function, and experience with similar products in the same category. SESSION B REGULATORY ISSUES IN THE 1990S New and Existing raw materials•A regulatory minefield Joel E. Rogelberg, Lonza, Inc., 1717 Route 208, Fairlawn, NJ 07410 The 1980s brought with it a new set of ground rules concerning the protection of our environment. The strong thrust of new regulations in the 80s challenged American industry to respond rapidly, while maintaining its position in highly competi- tive markets. While regulatory pressures gain in strength, the number of companies that are willing and able to adapt has withered. This is a reflection of global consolidation and the financial impact compliance requires. The author will examine some of the dangers and opportunities for the 90s based on the manufacture of specialty biocides. Included will be a focus on specialty biocides and the associated regulatory issues. Topics of discussion are: ß Acceptance of a preservative system for world- wide use ß Handling of hazardous basis raw materials and by-products ß Biodegradability ß Preservative safety testing ß Consumer needs vs. environmental requirements ß Negotiating with regulatory agencies SESSION C FRAGRANCE SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY The biology of olfaction: Focus on an odorant- binding protein Jonathan Pevsner, Ph.D., Department of Biological Science, Stanford University, Stanford, CA 94305 The molecular basis of olfaction is poorly under- stood. Odorants must travel from air through the nasal mucosa to reach olfactory receptor cells located in the olfactory epithelium. To understand these processes, we studied the binding of radioactive odorants to homogenates of the cow or rat nose. We identified an odorant-binding protein (OBP) that is present in many species including humans. OBP is a small, soluble protein that is synthesized in the lateral nasal gland. It is secreted from that gland into nasal mucus in high concentration. The pure protein can bind odorants of various structural classes including terpenes, aromatics, musks, and aldehydes. We cloned the gene for rat OBP. Anal- ysis of the protein sequence indicates that OBP is homologous to a family of transport proteins, such as the retinol-binding protein that carries vitamin A to the eye. We propose that OBP is a carrier protein for odorants, delivering them to olfactory neurons within the nose. The effects of odor administration on perfor- mance and stress in a sustained attention task William N. Dember, Ph.D., Department of Psy- chology, University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, OH 45221-0376 Based on some data from EEG recording and sub- jective reports, we expected the administration of certain fragrances to enhance performance and/or reduce stress in a sustained attention (vigilance) task. Subjects were asked to detect the occurrence of a visual signal that was infrequently and aperiodi- cally presented on a video screen, temporally inter- spersed among similar patterns. In experiment 1, subjects received a 30-second burst of either of two fragrances, peppermint or muguet, or plain air. Both fragrances had been judged pleasant in a pilot study peppermint had been judged alerting, mu- guet relaxing. Subjects in both fragrance conditions showed superior performance accuracy to those in the plain-air condition. No effects on self-reported stress were found. In experiment 2, only pepper- mint was used, along with a plain-air and a no-air control. Subjects in the peppermint condition did better than the control subjects and also reported less stress. The exact mechanism for these effects has yet to be identified. Fragrance use and social interaction John B. Nezlek, Ph.D., Department of Psy- chology, College of William & Mary, Williams- burg, VA 21385 This study investigated the relationship between in- dividuals' use of personal fragrances and their social interactions. Subjects maintained a social interac- tion diary for three weeks. The diaries provided de- tailed summaries of the quality and quantity of subjects' social contacts, including subjects' beliefs about others' awareness of their fragrances and how pleasant their fragrances were to others. Subjects' perceptions of how often others were aware of their fragrances were unrelated to quality and quantity of their social interactions. Subjects' estimates of how pleasing their fragrances were to others were unre-