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j. Soc, Cosmet, Chem,, 48, 243-251 (September/October 1997) Epidermal echoDenicity as a hydration parameter: The effect of moisturizers on the skin as evaluated by 20 MHz B-scanninD GIOVANNI PELLACANI, MARIANGELA FRANCOMANO, GIULIA GIUSTI, and STEFANIA SEIDENARI, Department of Dermatology, University of Modena, via Del Pozzo 71, 41100 Modena, Italy. Accepted for publication October 31, 1997. Synopsis Hydration of the stratum corneum after a short-term application of three skin-care products (petrolatum and two different moisturizers) was studied on the forearms of 15 healthy volunteers. Non-invasive methods were used. Evaporimetry, corneometry and B-scanning were carried out at the beginning, immediately after removal of the test chamber, and 15, 30, 60, 120, and 180 minutes later. Echographic recordings were performed by 20 MHz B-scanning and processed by a dedicated software (Dermavision 2D, Cortex Tech- nology, Hadsund, Denmark) based on the selection of amplitudes of interest and segmentation procedures. Segmentation of the images was performed employing two amplitude intervals, respectively highlighting hyper-reflecting (epidermis, lower part of dermis) and hypo-echogenic parts of the tissue. The evaluation of the dermis showed an attenuation of the hyper-reflecting areas of the deep dermis for all three substances and a significant decrease in echogenicity for petrolatum alone. Superficial hyper-reflecting areas assessing epidermis were significantly reduced in respect to baseline, at all assessment times for all three products. This echographic aspect corresponded to increased capacitance values, which were recorded for up to 180 minutes. In conclusion, 20 MHz B-scanning evaluation represents a valid support for the assessment of skin hydration. INTRODUCTION It is widely recognized that one of the most important skin problems encountered by consumers is skin dryness, which represents a spectrum of disorders ranging from a few uplifting flakes to conditions referred to as ichtyosis (1). Roughness, scaling, cracks, redness, and a feeling of tightness are skin features that are usually relieved by mois- turizers. Primary claim for the efficacy of skin-care products is hydration, clinically interpreted as the capacity to render the skin smoother and softer. However, little is known as yet about the physiological effects of moisturizers. Essentially two testing procedures are used to assess the effects of moisturizers on the hydration of the stratum corneum: long-term tests (2-4), which enable an evaluation obtained after ordinary use of the products, and short-term tests (5-12), which employ 243