242 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
adequate play time, should not be greasy or occlusive to the skin, should feel comfortable
to the customer, and should not sink into facial lines.5 Foundations are emulsion-based
formulations containing pigments, dispersants, emulsifiers, and preservatives, and are
applied to the skin either by hand or with the aid of a sponge or brush. Formulation of
liquid foundation is complex and difficult, and requires the right ingredients in correct
proportions to gain these characteristics.
Cosmetic formulation combines science and art in response to the unmet needs of consumers.
Raw materials are tools for creating formulation options and contribute to tactile sensory,
stability, and efficaciousness of the formulation. There are many cosmetic ingredients with
multiple functions that provide benefits to meet consumer demands.6
Magnesium myristate is a multifunctional excipient used as a binder, adherent, dispersant,
and emollient.7 In this study, an attempt was made to formulate cosmetic liquid foundation
using magnesium myristate. Its functionality in the formulation was also investigated by
utilizing D-optimal design using Design-Expert® software (Stat-Ease, Inc., Minnesota,
USA) to optimize the formulation.
MATERIALS
Magnesium myristate (new excipient) was obtained as a gift sample from Koel Colours
Private Limited, Mumbai, India. Dimethicone, propylene glycol monostearate, iron oxides,
and titanium dioxide were also obtained as a gift sample from Koel Colours Private
Limited. All other excipients used were of analytical grade.
METHODS
PREFORMULATION STUDIES OF MAGNESIUM MYRISTATE POWDER
Bulk density. Bulk density was measured by transferring the weighed amount of powder
into a measuring cylinder and the volume was noted. Average values of triplicates were
noted and expressed in g/mL.
Bulk density Weight of powder
Bulk volume =(eq. 1)
Tapped density. Tapped density was measured by transferring the weighed amount of
powder into a 100 mL measuring cylinder. The volume was noted by tapping the powder
to a constant volume. Average values of triplicates were noted and expressed in g/mL.8
Tapped density Weight of powder
Tapped volume =(eq. 2)
Carr’s index and Hauser’s index. The flowability of powder was determined by substituting
bulk density and tapped density in eq. 3 to calculate Carr’s compressibility index (CI) and
in eq. 4 to calculate Hausner ratio.9
243 Magnesium Myristate
%compressibility (Tapped density bulk density)
Tapped densi =-
y 100 × (eq. 3)
Hausner’s Tapped density
Bulk density =(eq. 4)
Angle of repose. Angle of repose is the maximum angle formed by the surface of pile of
powder and the horizontal plane. It was determined by the funnel method. Weighed
powder was poured into a funnel fixed on a stand with the tip of the funnel closed. The
powder formed a heap on the surface when allowed to flow freely. The diameter of the heap
was noted when the tip of the funnel touched the tip of the pile formed. Noted values were
substituted in eq. 5 to calculate angle of repose.10
Θ =-1 tan h/r (eq. 5)
Where, h =height of the pile, and r =radius of the pile.
Loss on drying. A calibrated rapid infrared moisture analyzer (METTLER TOLEDO
GmbH, Giessen, Germany) was used to precisely assess the moisture content of the powder
sample. 1 g of powder sample was placed into the disk and the dial reading was noted for
its final weight. Noted values were substituted in eq. 6 to calculate moisture content.11
Moisturecontent Initialwt Finalwt)
Initialwt =-×100 ((eq. 6)
PREPARATION OF LIQUID FOUNDATION
The liquid foundation was prepared in two steps. Initially, the oil phase was prepared
by melting stearic acid, propylene glycol monostearate, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, liquid
paraffin, and cosmetic pigments (iron oxide and titanium dioxide) on a water bath at 70°C.
The aqueous phase was prepared by dissolving tween 80, methyl paraben, and xanthan
gum in distilled water heated at 70°C, followed by the addition of propylene glycol. The oil
phase was transferred into the aqueous phase with continuous stirring using a homogenizer
at 1,500 rpm for 30 minutes.12
EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN
OPTIMIZATION OF LIQUID FOUNDATION USING CONVENTIONAL EXCIPIENTS
Design-Expert® software (13.0.11.0 version, Stat-Ease, Inc., Minnesota, USA) was used to
develop three factors and a two level (23) design, generating eight experimental runs.13 The
factor interaction between the variables was assessed using response surface graphs. The
concentration of three independent variables used was stearic acid (X1), propylene glycol
monostearate (X2), and dimethicone (X3). The dependent variables were viscosity (Y1) and
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