138 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS for consulting service to the large number of manufacturers who did not operate their own research and development laboratories, there was the need for education in col- leges in the fundamentals of cos- metic chemistry and finally there was the need for dissemination and utilization of scientific knowledge in the field of cosmetics. To satisfy the need for basic training among students, Ed had little trouble convincing Dean Ro- land T. Lakey of the Wayne Univer- sity College of Pharmacy that a course in cosmetics should be of- fered, at night, if necessary. Dean Lakey promptly appointed Ed to teach the course. This was a regular feature in the night school for several years. Then it was transferred to Saturday. One hour was devoted to lecture and four hours to laboratory work. Even- tually the course became a part of the manufacturing pharmacy course taught to seniors. For years Ed was listed as a "Special Instructor in Cosmetics" by Wayne University. In 1935 Ed conceived the idea for a society of the chemists active in the toilet goods industry. After con- siderable correspondence, a found- ing meeting was arranged in the summer of 1935 to be held in Cincin- nati. A meeting room was rented and a luncheon ordered. Ed de- Navarre arrived in Cincinnati the day before the meeting to see his friend Ralph Auch for some last minute arrangements and words of advice. That evening and the fol- lowing morning telegrams kept at- tiring which all said in essence "So sorry, unable to attend, best •vishes for a successful meeting," or words to this effect. Dejectedly Ed re- turned to Detroit. He remembered what he had learned from different sources, viz., that such a society was not looked upon with favor by the several managements, and that any- way, there were too few cosmetic chemists in existence. By 1944, Ed returned to the idea that the cosmetic chemists should form their own scientific society. This time he was better prepared-- as was the industry. First he approached the chemists of some of his clientele, then he asked other cosmetic chemists to join in the effort. On May 23, 1945, the founding meeting was held at the Lexington Hotel. Ten of the twelve charter members were pres- ent. A constitution and a name were adopted and a short technical program was held. Ed became the first chairman of T•. Soc•F•T¾ or COSMF•'m C•v•ms•'s, there being no presidency at that time. The rest is well known to all of us. Today our Soc•v•x¾ numbers al- most five hundred members, and the roster of the membership is indeed a "Who's Who" in the tech- nical branch of the cosmetic in- dustry. But let us not forget for a moment that primarily it was Ed's vision and energy that brought this Soc•v•x¾ into being and that his continuing active interest still helps to guide it through the several phases of a healthy development, with growing importance to its

MAISON G. DE NAVARRE, THE COSMETIC CHEMIST 139 membership, and with increasing usefulness to the cosmetic industry. Ed's monumental achievement and one upon which he may rest his claim to immortality (or a reason- able facsimile thereof) is his book "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics." He seems to have attacked this project in 1938, soon after his marriage. If ever there has been the need of proving the "little woman's" inspiring influence, here is a shining example of such an inspiration. In September of 1940 the manuscript of over 1000 type- written pages was delivered to Van Nostrand, and in 1941 the book was published. The value and use- fulness of this book is best illus- trated by the fact that it has been reprinted six times. At this time it is undergoing a major rewrit- ing and the publication of the new edition is awaited with keen in- terest by all who have come to ad- mire and appreciate the original. The "Chemistry and Manufac- ture of Cosmetics" was written with the original intention of serving as an aid in teaching cosmetic chemis- try and technology in schools and universities. It familiarizes the student with technical terminology and with the fundamentals of chemistry, physics, and physical chemistry in relation to cosmetics. It discusses in detail the formulation and production of the various cos- metic products available, it states the reasons for using given materials and describes their effect upon the final products. Older books on cos- metics lacked these data. In 1943, following up the need for a special classroom text, Ed began to work on a manuscript entitled "The Production Control and An- alysis of Cosmetics." The first four chapters were serialized in The American Perfumer, and later in the British contemporary, Soap Perfumery & Cosmetics. Instead of completing this manuscript, his publishers suggested that work pro- ceed at once on the revision of "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cos- metics," and this is where the mat- ter now stands. During almost 20 years of writing for The American Perfumer, Ed prepared twelve special Bulletins on such subjects as sunscreens, anti- oxidants, wetting agents, waxes, and replacements. These Bulletins, mailed gratis by the magazine to subscribers on request, totaled sev- eral thousand. Ed deNavarre be- came technical editor of The Ameri- can Perruiner in 1935, adding tech- nical abstracts to the magazine, also a "question-and-answer" de- partment. During these years of writing for The American Per- ruiner, Ed contributed dozens of articles on subjects ranging over a wide area such as Vitamin D in cosmetics, Turtle Liver Oil, the Newer Powder Creams, Cake Pow- der, Oily Make-up, Suntan Prepa- rations, Newer Face Masks, Mag- nesia Tooth Paste, Soapless Sham- poos, Triethanolamine Emulsions, Liquefying Creams, "Mother of Pearl" Creams, Germ-Free Creams, Lanolin, Permanent Wave Prepa- rations, Solid Stick Colognes, etc.