148 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS to determine the effects of astrin- gents on the permeability of frog skin, using radioactive sodium iodide. A variation of as much as 65% between the permeability of the skin of twelve frogs was found. Astrin- gents increased permeability of the skin the action was independent of the nature or concentration of astrin- gent, method of application, orienta- tion of the skin, or the type of tracer employed. These uses are admittedlysketchy, but they are forerunners of test methods yet to be developed for determining cosmetic effectiveness. Using, say Carbons4, can you imagine tracing diffusion of an aro- matic chemical such as vanillin, ter- pineol, or ionone or evaluating the fixative properties of a compound. that is synthesized with a labeled carbon or judging a commonly used fixative to which is added a labeled aromatic? It is intriguing to contemplate. Imagine estimating the cleansing properties of a cream by a Geiger counter that picks up residues con- taining applied or ingested "labeled" organic or inorganic substances. B^LD•ESS What is the cause of baldness ? If we knew the answer to that question, we might be able to find a cure, for the causes of baldness are many. Among them are heredity, age, sex, hormonal imbalance, diet, mode of living, condition of the nervous system, and skin secretions, to name some. Squalene, a normal component of sebum, is found to cause baldness in animals. Cholesterol, another com- ponent of sebum is suspect. Un- saturated fatty acids of the oleic acid series are mistrusted. Andro- gens applied locally cause hair to fall out. Estrogens when applied locally to animals have both pro- duced increased hair growth as well as caused hair to fall out. Similarly, fractions of ACTH have also pro- duced both growth and hair falling. Some still say that members of the vitamin B complex benefit hair growth and color, and so it goes. Recently Light published his an- alysis of a pattern baldness, con- cluding that the number of hairs, the age of the individual, and the amount of infiltration of the con- nective tissue were all related, though he did not determine the cause of infiltration. Nineteen addresses were pre- sented in 1950 at a conference on hair held at the New York Academy of Sciences all the papers were later published as a book under the title, "The Growth, Replacement and Types of Hair." In summary, the experts told of many things they knew, but the cure for baldness re- mained elusive. About the same time Szasz and Robertson, both psychiatrists, pub- lished a critical review of the litera- ture and voiced a theory of the pathogenesis of ordinary human baldness. Their view is that "ordi- nary human baldness is the result of chronic hyperactivity of the scalp muscles." The authors suggest an

DESIDERATA 149 interruption of this chronic scalp activity as a prophylactic measure. All of which is fine except that balding men like myself still cannot buy a bottle of something at the corner drugstore to stop our receding hair line. SILICONES Dr. Ralph Evans, your medalist of two years ago, in a later trade press article, touched on the possible new horizons opened by the silicones. Being inert, they at once suggest application in products that break down due to heat, acidity, alkalinity, or cold. Some are infinitely water repellent. Others are so poorly soluble in any solvent that special uses are easy to conceive. One family is exceedingly effective in breaking down foam and lather. It has already been used in some cos- metic preparations for almost five years. Originally, silicones were de- veloped for heat resistance, then cold stability. Their water-repel- lent properties were suddenly dis- covered and another use developed. So it goes. The uses for silicones are just entering a fruitful era. Some cosmetic uses contemplated include: 1. Brighter finishes in molded products with easier mold re- lease. 2. Water repellency in special products. 3. Coating glass to obtain best drain characteristics. 4. Pigment dispersion. 5. Higher gloss in coatings. One hand protective cream on the market contains a silicone as its effective ingredient. With only three U.S. producers at the beginning of 1951, there are some new ones coming in by next year. At this time there are about 400 patents covering the use of silicones. The number will be sharply increased during the next few years. The present high price of silicones precludes some considerations. But newer methods, already in use, por- tend further reduction in price when this happens, will you be ready to take advantage of it ? WHAT OILS AaE GOOD FOR THE SKIN Over the years no one questioned the notion that animal and vegeta- ble oils and fats were "better" for the skin in some nebulous way that we fail to describe exactly. Never- theless, the feeling has always been there. This impression was somewhat strengthened by the evolution of the fact that mineral fats tended to dry the skin either by solvent action on sebum or by water extraction from the skin. It was agreed that min- eral fats just floated on the skin surface and didn't do "much good." Recent work on rats (admittedly, not directly translatable to humans) throws enough light on the subject to be the basis of a more profound investigation. Butcher found that most pro- vocative in producing a skin des- quamation not unlike oily dandruff was oleic acid itself, fol16wed by oils