JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS for her guests after their meals are over, and will often carry her pan-dan when travelling or visiting. It is not surprising that perfumes and aromatics have always been so popular in India, in view of the fact that so many raw materials are native to the country: patchouli, ginger-grass, lemon-grass, palmarosa, vetivert, etc. Khus-khus, from which vetivert is obtained, provides one of the many methods used in India to alleviate the rigours of the hot climate. A large mat is woven from the khus-khus grass and hung over doorways and windows, so as to permit any breeze that there is to pass through the grass before entering the room. These mats are kept soaked in water, generally by a small boy throwing the water from a can over the mat, and the cool and fragrant breeze that results is delightful. The production of finished products from these raw materials has never been on the scientific basis known to modern European perfume manu- facturers. However, considerable advances have been made in recent years, particularly in the manufacture of vetivert oil. The medicinal and perfumery values of vetivert have been known in India from time immemorial, and there were various references to it in ancient Ayurvedic treatises (the Indian native medical code). The Kerala Soap Institute in Calicut began a study of its cultivation and production in the year 1943, and a paper on this subject was published in the American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review of August, 1949. In the writers' soap factory they have used vetivert oil produced on the west coast of India, and have been extremely satisfied with its quality in every way. There are a number of attempts being made to increase the effective production of essential oils in India, and it is expected that these efforts will increase, particularly as it is the policy of the Indian Government to encourage indigenous industry. The care of the hair is undertaken by Indian women from very early childhood, and considerable time is spent by them in fostering its healthy growth. They take great pride and pleasure in increasing the natural beauty of the hair by plaiting it in various styles and adorning the coiffure with fresh flowers. Kalidasa, often referred to as the Shakespeare of India, suggested several flowers for the perfuming and beautification of the hair generally, some of which are: Bakula--Mumusops elangi--also called keshara: a sweet-scented flower of the narcissus type. Champaka--Michelia champaka--kadamba--Nauclea kadamba, also called Nipa. The tree attains a height of 70-80 ft. and bears orange blossoms. Kunda--Jasminium multifiorum. Malati--Jasminium grandifiorum--a fragrant flower of the Jasmin class. and the Rose. 204

PERFUMERY AND COSMETICS IN ANCIENT AND MODERN INDIA In particular, the flower of the Michelia champaka with its brilliant yellow against the jet-black of the Indian women's hair is exceptionally striking, and groups of women so decked may often be seen proceeding to weddings, visiting friends and so on. The washing of the hair is often done with an aqueous extract of soapnuts, which serves the purpose of a shampoo. This is preferred to soap as it is not alkaline, and does not affect the natural flossiness of the hair. Sometimes black hair-dyes are used, as the Indian women prefer to have their hair a shiny black. At intervals, the hair is given an oil-bath which, in addition to cleansing the hair, is believed to promote its growth and to prevent dandruff and falling of hair. It is also claimed that it has a distinct cooling effect on the scalp. The technique consists in soaking the scalp and hair liberally with vegetable oils, such as gingelly or coconut, in which may be incorporated extracts from medicinal herbs. The oil on the scalp and hair is subsequently washed away, using the extract of soapnuts referred to above. Often, after an initial drying with a towel, the hair is finally dried by being exposed to aromatic fumes from burning incense powder, such as a mixture of shavings of sandalwood, resins like benzoin or styrax, dried roots, dried flower buds, petals, etc. The delicately perfumed hair is then plaited according to the particular style favoured by the lady concerned, and then adorned with flowers. Much attention is paid by India women to the care of the face. To encourage softness, the skin is rubbed gently with a milk-fat, corresponding to the cold cream technique of Western women. The face may then be washed with finely powdered and perfumed Bengal gram or green gram which, acting as a mild abrasive, removes all traces of dirt from the pores. Turmeric (Curcuma longa) powder is also used, as this is believed to retard the growth of hair on the face, but it is nothing like as rapid as modern depilatories. It is thought that the depilatory effect is achieved by using turmeric continuously over a long period, generally from childhood. Decoration of the face varies throughout India: almost universal, how- ever, is the tilaka, which is a dot in the centre of the forehead, which may vary in size from a pin-point to one as big as a shilling, either black, red, pink or deep purple. The black dot is usually of carbonised starch powder, which is made into a sticky paste with water and then applied to the forehead. The coloured powder is made by tinting finely powdered rice starch. A thin film of waxy matter is first applied to the skin to enable the coloured powder to adhere properly. In some places, such as Bengal, the central parting of the hair may be marked with a red streak stretching from the forehead right back to the middle of the head. Many women in South India also still have their nose pierced when they are children, and its decoration may consist of tiny diamonds on the ends of pins or gold rings perhaps the size of a half-crown or larger. Ear-rings are popular with Indian women, and 205