308 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Formosa ,4. Citronella Oil. The citronella oil industry of Formosa made a modest beginning in 1912, when a single root stock was introduced from Java. In the course of the ensuing years production was gradually in- creased, with all the oil absorbed by the newly established industry of aromatic isolates in Japan. It was only after the end of World War II that Formosa appeared on the international market as the world's heaviest supplier of citronella oil, by far outranking Guatemala and Java. In 1953, for example, Formosa produced about 4.5 million pounds of this oil, which quantity of course brought about a sharp decline in prices and practically forced the growers and distillers in Guatemala out of business. Formosa can easily underbid other countries because its entire citronella industry is based upon primitive family and cottage operations, with no consideration for wages, overhead expenses, etc. If some day Formosa should be unable to supply the world market with citronella oil, for example, on account of political difficulties, the price of this important oil would undoubtedly rise sharply. It is for this reason that the American essential oil industry has every interest in encouraging producers in Gautemala by paying prices that leave at least some return. B. Orthodon linalooliferum Oil. Another interesting development that has lately taken place in Formosa is the experimental cultivation of Ortho- don linalooliferum Fujita, an herb of the family Labiatae, which can be planted and harvested like any mint. Yield of oil is approximately 50 pounds per acre. The oil contains about 80 per cent of d-linalool hence it offers good possibilities as a source for the isolation of natural linalool. As such, it could perhaps replace the Brazilian oil of bois de rose which is distilled from the wood of wild growing trees. In other words, the linalool could be obtained from herb material cultivated on regular plantations. Further experimentation is required to arrive at a definite conclusion as to the quality of this linalool. Fralloee Lavender and Lavandin Oils. In the south of France lavender oil is still produced partly from wild growing and partly from cultivated plant ma- terial. Collection of the wild growing plants being a difficult, backbreak- ing and expensive task, many attempts were made in the early twenties to cultivate the true lavender (Lavandula oflicinalis Chaix) on regular plantations, where the plants could be harvested and transported to near-by distilleries without too much trouble. Unfortunately, however, most of these attempts failed because the fields decayed prematurely, i.e., only a few years after planting, thus causing considerable loss to the growers. (It takes about three years to bring a newly planted lavender field into full productivity, and a healthy field should last at least eight years to

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN ESSENTIAL OILS 309 write off the investment and to bring some return.) As a result of these failures it was assumed for a long time that true lavender simply does not lend itself to cultivation, the plant being of too delicate a nature. It was only recently that the idea of cultivating lavender on regular plantations was taken up again, farmers having learned that it can be cultivated only in places where the plant grows wild (2000 to 3500 feet altitude), and under proper conditions of soil, climate, and with ample spacing between the rows. Most of all, the fields must be well drained so that no stagnant water nor too much moisture remains in the soil. It has been found also that the fields require careful cultivation (thorough weeding). In other words, good field management is essential. In the light of these findings new attempts have recently been made to cultivate true lavender, in many cases with good results. The yield of oil amounts to 26 pounds per acre. Total annual production of lavender oil in Southern France now averages 100,000 to 110,000 pounds. Last year very extensive plantations of true lavender were started near Sault (Vaucluse). These will come into production between 1957 and 1959 yield will ultimately be from 40,000 to 65,000 pounds of true lavender oil per year (ester content of the oil 38-42 per cent). Provided the ven- ture is successful such large quantities will undoubtedly have a stabilizing influence upon the price structure of lavender oil in general, and reduce prices to a level at which this valuable and delightful oil can again be used more freely in the perfume, cosmetic and soap industries. As regards lavandin (Lavandula hybrida Reverchon), a much hardier plant than true lavender, it is n•w cultivated extensively on vast planta- tions, particularly on the high plateaux in the Basses-Alpes, i.e., at lower altitudes, where the climate in the summer would be too hot for true lavender. These extensive high plains lend themselves admirably to large-scale cultivation of lavandin, permitting the use of tractors, culti- vators, trucks, etc. A well-managed field should remain productive for about twelve years. The original (old) type of lavandin yields approxi- mately 44 to 48 pounds of oil per acre (i.e., almost twice as much as true lavender) the oil contains from 15 to 24 per cent of esters, calculated as linalyl acetate. About twenty years ago a new type of lavandin plant was discovered by a government botanist and named after him. The oil -derived from this variety (Abrial) contains from 28 to 32 per cent of esters moreover, an acre of var. Abrial yields from about 88 to 96 pounds of oil, in other words, twice as much oil as the original, older variety. No wonder then that growers have every interest in planting the Abrial variety, and as old fields covered with the original type of lavandin die out they are re- placed with the high yielding Abrial variety. Under these circumstances it is inevitable that in a few years the old type of oil will no longer be available, or only in small quantities.