218 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS skin and hair. Benefits described range from pro- tective film-forming activity to skin moisture reten- tion. Skin softening and a natural-feeling emol- liency are often imparted. Very little reference has been made in the literature to the important prop- erty of various protein hydrolyzates and derivatives to reduce irritant effects of surfactants such as the lauryl sulfates and benzene sulfonates. Frequently cited, however, is the mildness and complete lack of irritant potential of various protein materials currently in use. Adding hydrolyzed animal protein to sodium lauryl sulfate can reduce Draize eye scores considerably, while completely eradicating the corneal and irrital involvement often seen when SLS is used alone. Data on this topic will be presented and other experimental evidence of anti- irritant activity will be covered. Three patents will be discussed. The first deals with the use of a cocohydrolyzed animal protein in a caustic soda oven cleaner. The second and third were issued to Proctor & Gamble and Colgate. Both of these demonstrate the anti-irritant activity of protein- derived materials in hand dish-washing formula- tions. Dermassage dish-washing lotion is marketed by Colgate and incorporates hydrolyzed animal protein, as discussed in the patent. The protective action of the proteins against hair damage will be shown, and original data indicating lowered Draize eye scores for shampoos and conditioners will be presented. Surface active agents based on polypeptides George Cioca, Ph.D., Secol Co., 310 East Strasburg Road, R.D.//4, Coatesville, PA 19320. The surface active agent is comprised of the reaction product of an alkyl phenylsulfonic acid and a polypeptide. The surface active agents pro- duced in accordance with this method are particu- larly useful in cosmetic applications such as sham- poos, but may also have industrial applications in textile processing and the like. It has been recog- nized that proteins are very useful in many cosmetic applications and that those in substantially pure form have remedial effects upon skin. Thus, it has been proposed that surface active agents be included in protein-based shampoos and soaps. The alkyl phenylsulfonic acids useful in these preparations are those which have a sulfonate (SO 3 group) and an hydrophobic or oleophobic group attached to a benzene ring. In accordance with the present method, a surface active agent, which is low in cost, provides minimal skin and eye irritation, while providing the recognized advantages that proteins have upon the skin. Prevention of phototoxicity by sunscreens Frank J. Akin, Ph.D., Schering-Plough Corp., 3030 Jackson Ave., Memphis, TN 38128. Phototoxicity is a unique form of light-induced injury that can be triggered by wavelengths outside the normal sunburning range. Consequently, purely UV-B sunscreens and other conventional methods of protection are ineffective in preventing the deleterious effects. Phototoxicity was induced in animal models by a variety of drugs and environ- mental agents, including antibiotics, phenothiazine tranquilizers, and psoralens, in order to evaluate the effectiveness of UV absorbers. Subsequent tests were conducted on human volunteers with photo- sensitivity reactions to various drugs. Para-amino- benzoic acid (PABA), the most widely recognized UV sunscreen, provided no protection against the cutaneous or the systemic phototoxic responses. The UV-A absorbing benzophenones were protec- tive. Sunscreens with broad-spectrum activity con- taining both a UV-A and UV-B absorber were the most effective in preventing a broad range of phototoxic reactions. The evaluation of dimethicone copolyols as anti-irritants Michael S. Starch and Claire DeVries, Dow Corn- ing, Inc., P.O. Box 1767, Midland, MI 48640. A series of silicone glycol copolymers conforming to the CTFA listing for dimethicone copolyol was tested as anti-irritants in 3% sodium lauryl sulfate when applied to the eyes of male rabbits. The results of these tests indicate that at least one of the copolymers is a more effective anti-irritant than acetamide MEA. Preparation and properties of low irritation shampoos Irving R. Schmolka, Ph.D., BASF Wyandotte Corp., 1609 Biddie Ave., Wyandotte, MI 48192. A primary interest in the low irritation shampoo market has led suppliers to search for the develop- ment of new ingredients that can contribute to cleansing without irritating the eyes or mucous membranes. In addition, there is a requirement that any shampoo ingredient must supply copious foam as well as provide viscosity to an aqueous surfactant system. The preparation and properties of a new high-foaming nonionic surfactant, which meets these requirements, are described. A comparison is made of this new nonionic surface active agent with two other nonionics, recommended or used in low irritation shampoos. The ability of this new nonionic surfactant to surpass other commercially available nonionics in viscosity build-up is illus- trated. This new nonionic surfactant, BUTRONIC 127 © , will clearly demonstrate the foam superiority of concentrated shampoo formulations in water, and in the presence of soil.

ABSTRACTS 219 Inhibitory effect of aminoefaderma (collagen linoleate) on the acanthosis-inducing activity of castor oil and petrolatum (heavy mineral oil) Prof. Giorgio Rialdi, One Dag Hammerskjold Plaza, New York, NY 10017. The protective effect of aminoefaderma (collagen linoleate) on skin alterations induced by prolonged application of castor oil and heavy mineral oil was studied in Swiss albino mice. Mouse skin was selected on the basis of its great similarity to human skin two irritants were chosen because they pro- voke skin alterations of comparable entity to those caused by normal exposure of skin to various environmental skin-offensive agents. For sixty con- secutive days castor oil and heavy mineral oil were applied daily to a depilated section of skin over an area of about 4 cm 2. The histologic tests made at the end of the treatment showed that castor oil provokes acanthosis, destroys the base layer, and brings about slight skin infiltration. Pronounced acanthosis, considerable thickening of the mal- phagian layer with disassociation of the tonofibrils and discheratosic aspects were present on the skin of the mice treated with heavy mineral oil. These skin-offensive effects caused by castor oil and heavy mineral oil were either of very little signifi- cance or completely absent on the mice given applications of the two irritants during the morning and followed after eight hours by local applications of aminoefaderma. Formulating mild surfactant systems with counter irritants Robert J. Verdicchio, Johnson & Johnson Baby Products, Grandview Rd., Skillman, NJ 08558. The ocular irritation profiles of several selected anionic, zwitterionic ampholytic and nonionic sur- factants are reviewed. Ethoxylated nonionic surfac- rants demonstrate excellent ocular irritation reduc- tion in mixed binary and ternary surfactant systems. Similar reductions in irritation effects of aggressive surfactants are demonstrated for a newer class of novel bis-quaternary ammonium compounds. Otherwise aggressive, potentially irritating surfac- tants, when combined in selected ratios, exhibit synergistic ocular irritation reduction. This effect is illustrated by the combination of a zwitterionic sultaine with an alkyl ether sulfate. Skin irritation produced by detergent mixtures is substantially mitigated by novel rosin-modified sorbitan esters. APPLICATIONS OF TOXICOLOGY Toxicity testing of cosmetic ingredient and formulation--a collaborative approach for chemist and toxicologist Bradford H. Arthur, Greenfield Laboratories, P.O. Box 708, Greenfield, IN 46140. The review process for examining current data available for cosmetic ingredients and the applica- bility of this data will be discussed. Also included in the discussion will be the review process of ingredients and intermediates and how their toxic- ity affects bench chemists. Why the cosmetic chemist should understand toxicological test results Anne Wolven, A.M. Wolven, Inc., 6560 Sentry Hill Trail N.E., Atlanta, GA 30328. The paper will address the need for safety data on individual ingredients and the finished product, the appropriateness of toxicological studies and their meaning as related to human exposure, and the chemist serving as an expert witness. Good clinical practices in cosmetic safety and claims substantiation testing J. James Pearce, Jr., Hill Top Research, Inc., P.O. Box 42501, Cincinnati, OH 45242. "Good Clinical Practices" is a title given to several regulations, promulgated or about to be promul- gated by the FDA, defining the investigative pro- cess for FDA-regulated studies employing human subjects. Although "GCP's" apply only to studies of regulated compounds, many of the practices are good common sense and should be routinely included in nonregulated cosmetic studies. Bench chemist awareness: factors which affect toxicity Michael A. Gallo, Ph.D., Griggstown Rd., Belle Mead, NJ 08502. The classes of compounds, biological structures, distribution, and physiological mechanisms in- volved in the up-take and excretion of cosmetic chemicals will be discussed in detail. Attention will also be paid to kinetic models relevant to the question of dermo-toxicity. Classic toxicity studies used in the evaluation of cosmetic chemicals and skin care products will be illustrated. ADVANCES IN MICROBIOLOGY AND PRESERVATION An independent laboratory's approach to evaluation of preservative systems Gayle Mulberry, James R. Agin, and Ward L. Billhimer, Hill Top Research, P.O. Box 42501, Cincinnati, OtI 45242. The independent laboratory may serve a broad range of industries, each with unique but related