220 .JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS needs. These range from the needs of the chemical company that is involved in the development of new antimicrobial compounds to those of the small firm concerned with the manufacture of a pre- moistened wipe, hand lotion, or other product. An independent laboratory plays a vital role in the evaluation of preservative systems, both in the developmental and the finished product stages. Evaluations of the antimicrobial system can be made through a relatively simple zone of inhibition tests and minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) evaluations. MIC studies can be modified to evalu- ate ingredient compatibility or to predict effective concentration endpoints through computer- assisted data evaluation. Similar screening methods can also be used to evaluate the cidal activities of antimicrobial systems. The evaluation of the effi- cacy of the preservative systems in finished prod- ucts can be conducted through standard proce- dures (USP, TFA, ASTM methods) or through special rapid methodologies. A discussion of the various factors which the independent laboratory should consider when assisting the client in the design or selection of a suitable testing program will be presented. Effect of some cosmetic pigments on the bac- tericidal activities of preservatives Tetsuo Sakamoto, Mitsuo Yanagi and Takeo Mit- sui, Shiseido Laboratories, 100 Tokeneke Rd., Dar- ien, CT 06820. The effect of eight cosmetic pigments on the bactericidal activities of p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters was investigated by a viable cell count method. Most of the materials tested interfered with the antibacterial action of all of the four preservatives. The inactivating agents were found to be ultramarine, talc, titanium dioxide (R), tita- nium dioxide (A), red oxide of iron, and yellow oxide of iron, in descending order. In general, the bactericidal activities of methyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid was inactivated the greatest, while butyl p- hydroxybenzoic acid was affected the least. The mechanism of these inactive actions was also inves- tigated. The signal of phenolic proton of inacti- vated methyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid had disap- peared, according to H-NMR analysis. It is likely that phenolic proton of methyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid was replaced by some metals from the coexis- tent pigments, which is considered to be in inacti- vating action, and that the addition of EDTA prevented the inactivating action. Rapid detection of microbes in cosmetics Stephen j. Bellis, Noxell Corporation, P.O. Box 1799, Baltimore, MD 21203. A rapid radiometric (24-28 hours) method using a Bactec 301 has been developed for detecting low level (10•-10 2) microbial contamination in cosmet- ics. A series of parallel experiments comparing the conventional 48-72 hour method with the radio- metric method was performed. Anhydrous and hydrous cosmetic products were innoculated with E. coli, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, B. subtilis and C. albicans. The ability to detect these contaminants using conventional (Modified Letheen Broth and Agar, MacConkey, Vogel-Johnson Agars) method versus the radiometric system using a Bactec 301, AA broth, CN broth and BH broth vials was compared. The results indicate that the Bactec system can reliably detect low level contamination within 24-48 hours. The advantages of the Bactec system are its ability to rapidly detect microbial growth and its ease of operation. Some disadvan- tages are its initial cost and limited shelf life of media. A standardized method of comparison for preservative system selection Stephen B. Miller, Noxell Corporation, P.O. Box 1799, Baltimore, MD 21203. With at least 122 different compounds classified as preservatives, the task of choosing a preservative system seems formidable. In actuality, this vast number is reduced to between 20-30 more com- monly used cosmetic preservatives. Recently, sup- pliers have introduced a number of newer alterna- tive compounds to add to this number. Traditional- ly, preservative system selection is based on elemen- tal considerations of the total formulation itself. These considerations include an evaluation of phys- ico-chemical factors, raw ingredients, packaging components, and the preservatives themselves. A comparative evaluation of a number of possible alternative systems can be performed using stan- dard challenge methodology. The method requires: (1) selection of a standard for comparison, (2) selection of appropriate challenge organisms, and (3) a strict numerical comparison of recovery num- bers. Results can provide a basis for the selection of possible preservative systems and beneficial infor- mation about compounding with different preser- vatives in established and development products. The responsibility of manufacturing opera- tions in the production of microbiologically acceptable cosmetics Susan E. Simpson and John Yablonsky, Avon Products, Inc., Division St., Suffern, NY 10901. High quality, microbiologically acceptable cosmet- ics are the result of a combination of the following factors: 1) raw ingredient control, 2) quality water systems, 3) equipment cleaning, sanitation, and design, 4) good manufacturing practices, 5) product

ABSTRACTS 221 preservation, 6) employee awareness. Finished product testing, consisting of sampling, testing, and interpretation of results, is essentially the moni- toring of the success of these elements. Results of these tests are interpreted according to industry and manufacturer specifications. Overview of pharmacognostical research and cosmetic formulation Ara Der Maderosian, Ph.D., Philadelphia College of Pharmacy and Science, 43rd St. & Kingsessing Mall, Philadelphia, PA 19104. The discussion will focus on the pharmacognosti- cal state of the art, with emphasis placed on developments and research trends over the past decade. Natural dyes and pigments, antimicrobials, and natural plant and animal products will also be discussed, as well as basic and applied research, with emphasis placed on cosmetic formulation. Other topics to be discussed include stabilization of cosmetic formulations prepared with natural prod- ucts, and natural product extracts and concentrates, their preparation and utilization in cosmetic prod- ucts. World-wide use of natural products' implica- tions for research design Norman Farnsworth, Ph.D., College of Pharmacy, University of Illinois, 833 South Wood St., Chica- go, IL 60680. The discussion will focus on contemporary research and the utilization of natural products of proven and potential value from all over the world, such as aloe--its use, efficacy, and the current state of knowledge about it, and ginseng--a plant to which hormonal activity is attributed and which has enormous application and implication potential for cosmetics. Other topics to be discussed include the suppression of melanin production by plant extracts having dopa hydroxylase enzyme-inhibit- ing activity, and topical and internal uses of natural products. Present and future trends in the use and avail- ability of natural products William A. Meer, Ph.D., Meer Corporation, 9500 Railroad Ave., North Bergen, NJ 07047. The origins of natural products, their cultivation, identification, relative availability, and stabilization for product application research and cosmetic use will be discussed, along with current commercial use in the U.S.A. and abroad. Future trends will be investigated and predictions of market supply will be made. Laboratory control, testing and analytical standards, and shelf studies will also be discussed, and the following questions will be raised: Can cosmetics formulated with natural products be treated in the conventional manner or are special procedures needed? Why are cosmetics formulated with natural products optimal from a consumer's viewpoint? NEW COSMETIC TECHNOLOGY Absorptive aluminum hydroxide gels in topi- cal products Roger E. Nelson, Ph.D., Arthur A. Siciliano, Ph.D., Reheis Chemical Company, 235 Snyder Ave., Berkely Heights, NJ 07922. Aluminum hydroxide gels (REDERM) possessing highly absorptive properties are described. Both fluid and co-dried forms exhibit higher levels of protein binding, oil absorbency, and water absor- bency than do many other ingredients traditionally used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. These unique properties make the gels especially useful in a wide range of topical products of different forms. Various formulations are discussed in conjunction with proposed OTC claims for topical, skin protectant products. The effect of specific polymers on the proper- ties of nitrocellulose-based nail lacquers Mitchell L. Schlossman, Tevco, Inc., 507 Washing- ton Ave., Carlstadt, NJ 07072. The nitrocellulose film tends to be brittle and to adhere poorly to the nail surface unless it is properly modified by various polymeric materials. Most nail enamel formulas contain toluene sulfon- amide-formaldehyde resin as the chief modifying agent. In this study polymers such as acrylates, ethyl cellulose, polyethylene, vinyls polyesters, polyam- ides, etc., will be evaluated for gloss, adhesion, flexibility, and hardness in a typical nail lacquer system. Applications technology for carbopolUresins and cosmetic formulations Stanley T. Trier, Donald L. Secard, and Peter C. Braun, BF Goodrich Chemical Group, 6100 Oak Tree Blvd., Cleveland, OH 44131. This paper consolidates into a few minutes time almost thirty years of practical experience in using Carbopol © resins in cosmetic applications. Empha- sis will be on laboratory and plant dispersion techniques, activation mechanisms, and orders of addition. Dual neutralization, hydrogen bonding, and other basic principles of special interest to newcomers to the profession will be discussed. Also included is new information on neutralizers, and on compatibility with protein materials, surfac- tants, and preservatives.