222 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Polytrap tm polymer entrapment system A. V. Calogero, Wichen Products, Inc., Big Pond Road, Huguenot, NY 12726. A major breakthrough has been achieved in chemi- cal specialties with the development and subse- quent commercialization of a unique concept which embodies the entrapment of functional material within a hydrophobic, polymeric matrix. The polymer entrapment system, under the name POLYTRAP TM, renders a variety of functional materials in a constantly available state. In this paper we will present POLYTRAP TM and relate it to its current and potential utility in a wide spec- trum of application areas we will also relate it to its potential of broadening the art and science of cosmetic formulating. Specific prototypes will be presented and discussed each product area will contribute to fully understanding the unique mech- anism of the polymer entrapment system, its com- plexities, and its wide-ranging versatility and func- tionality. Mastergels and their applications in cosmetics & toiletries products Kishor Fozdar, NL Chemicals/NL Industries, Wyckoff Mills Road, Hightstown, NJ 08520. Mastergels are smooth, homogenous gels obtained by expanding clay platelets of BENTONE © addi- tive in different oils or organic solvents. BEN- TONE©s are organically modified clay gellants. Different Mastergels and their physical and chemi- cal properties will be discussed. Advantages derived from the use of Mastergels will be presented. Typical formulas containing Mastergels will be shown and discussed. The lathering potential of anionic surfactants: the effect of conditioning ingredients J. Roger Hart and Mark T. DeGeorge, W. R. Grace & Co., 491 Amherst Street, Nashua, NH 03063. Conditioning additives often have a detrimental effect on the lather quality of shampoos and skin cleansers. The effect resulting from the addition of modified quaternary salts, fatty amines and lanolin derivatives on the latherability of sodium, ammo- nium and triethanolamine lauryl sulfates, sodium alpha olefin sulfonate and sodium lauryl sarcosi- nate is described. Reactive organosiloxanes for personal care use Samuel Wendel, Ph.D., Dow Corning Corp., P.O. Box 1767, Midland, MI 48640. Modification of basic dimethylsiloxane via the attachment of various organo-functional groups to the silicone polymer backbone are described. Sev- eral classes of functionality pertinent to personal care products are illustrated. These include alcohol and amine functionality. The product forms, prop- erties, and advantages over non-reactive siloxanes are discussed. Applications in the hair care area are reviewed and potential uses in skin care products proposed. Glucamate R Doe-120: a new agent for viscos- ity enhancement Stuart B. Polovsky, Ph.D., Martin Smolin, and Arenon Friedman, Amerchol Corp., P.O. Box 351, Edison, NJ 08818. Glucamate © DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate), a new macromolecule based on the chemistry of methyl glucoside, has the ability to thicken common detergent systems used in sham- poos. Structurally, it is a unique compound. It is primarily planar with lipophilic alkenyl groups and hydrophilic polyoxyethylene chains around the perimeter of the molecule. This allows it the capacity to set-up a network system which would be rigid and should permeate the shampoo. Gluca- mate © DOE-120 can solubilize dirt or oil and act much like a secondary detergent. It is extremely mild and will often act synergistically when used with common foam-boosting and thickening agents. Glucamate © DOE-120 is useful as a non- ionic surfactant of great versatility and stability over a wide range of conditions in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. There is no threat of nitrosamine contamination. Glucamate © DOE-120 is easy to work with and sample formulations will be pre- sented demonstrating its use. The use of low molecular weight polyethyl- enes and ethylene copolymers in personal care products Irving B. Chang, Allied Chemical Corp., P.O. Box 1087R, Morristown, NJ 07960. Low molecular weight polyethylene and ethylene copolymers can be used to impart many advantages and special properties to personal care products. They are used in all types of make-up products, special creams and lotions, scrub powders, and special texturized powders and liquids, mediated ointments, and dental adhesives. A general approach is described in using ethylene copoly- mers, a solvent generally incompatible, and a cosol- vent as a ternary system. In this manner, desirable gel compositions are predictable and easy to opti- mize. These products function in personal care products as thickeners, stabilizers, suspending agents, viscosity-controlling agents, mild abrasives, and texturizing agents. They have a proven record of being safe and effective. Allied Corporation

ABSTRACTS 223 manufactures thirty-seven grades which are mar- keted, prilled, diced, powdered, micronized fine powders, heavy greases or even-flowing heavy oils. This company is committed to growth in the personal care industry, whether with existing prod- ucts or new ones. New high efficiency aqueous thickener David Witiak, Ph.D., Rohm and Haas Company Research Laboratories, Independence Mall West, Philadelphia, PA 19105. Thickeners are widely used to adjust the viscosity of solutions, stabilize formulations and otherwise modify the rheology in a variety of cosmetic/ toiletry, detergent, household, and industrial spe- cialty products. A new thickener, Acrysol ICS-1, has been developed with exceptionally high effi- ciency and unique properties in aqueous-based formulations. The thickener can interact with sur- factant micelles leading to a marked increase in thickening efficiency. This new thickener is pre- pared as a high solids, low viscosity, aqueous polymer emulsion which is easily and instantly converted to its soluble thickening form by neutral- izing to pH 6.5 or above with a variety of bases. The thickener forms clear, smooth, non-grainy and non-stringy solutions, is stable in and efficiently thickens highly caustic solutions and is compatible with anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants. The material is useful for thickening a wide variety of aqueous systems ranging from shampoos and other personal care products to concentrated caus- tic solutions and other heavy-duty cleaning formu- lations. Liquid pearl concentrates--a new raw mate- rial for cold mix hair and skin cleansers Louis J. Nehmsmann, Ph.D., Alcolac Inc., 3440 Fairfield Rd., Baltimore, MD 21226. In a typical conventional batch process for manu- facturing pearlized products, up to 95% of the energy consumption is thermal energy. In light of current energy costs, it is of prime interest to all to reduce this energy requirement. The utilization of thermal energy only where needed and conserved where not essential to a process, is the principle behind low energy emulsification. Using this prin- ciple as a basis, the concept is expanded by the development of a new series of Liquid Pearl Con- centrates and formulae for ambient temperature (cold mix) manufacture of pearlized products, including shampoos and liquid hand soaps. The goal is lower cost and easier formulation utilizing cold mixing of the Liquid Pearl Concentrates in the pearl formula. Three separate anionic surfactant systems are described: sodium lauryl ethoxysulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate and olefin sulfonate. The physical properties of possible formulations are examined. Variables are discussed such as viscosity and the dependence of pearl formation on the concentration of salt, amide and the amount of Liquid Pearl Concentrate required to give a maxi- mum pearl. The formula characteristics, including pH, foam, and additive compatibilities of each of the three surfactant systems are highlighted. The data given defines how a lower cost, lower energy input system utilizing Liquid Pearl Concentrates in each of the three basic types of anionic surfactant systems can be used to formulate and manufacture pearlized products of varied viscosities and degree of pearl at ambient temperature. Assessing the conditioning properties of alkylamidobetaines by the measurement of substantivity to hair and skin Beatriz M. Neghme and Elaine S. Stern, Inolex Chemical Company, 4221 S. Western Blvd., Chica- go, IL 60609. Cosmetic conditioners are substantive to hair and skin: they function by being absorbed or adsorbed by these substrates. Alkylamidobetaines are used as cosmetic conditioners because they are known to inhibit the irritation potential of surfactants present in hair and skin care formulations. This paper postulates that conditioning by alkylamidobetaines is due to the substantivity of betaine derivatives. Presented here is a rapid, sensitive method for the determination of betaine substantivity. The method involves the spectrophotometric measurement of the periodide complex of the quaternary nitrogen present in betaine derivatives. Three betaines are investigated--oleamidopropyl, cocamidopropyl, and isostearylamidopropyl. Betaine substantivity to virgin, bleached, and bleached-water hair is mea- sured from an anionic shampoo system. Betaine substantivity to skin is measured from oil-in-water emulsions. The study shows that the betaine deriva- tives under investigation are substantive to all three types of hair and to skin. On hair, betaine substan- tivity is related to the molecular weight and branch- ing of the derivative the isostearyl derivative gives the highest substantivity. On skin, molecular weight and branching do not affect betaine sub- stantivity. Cationic cellulosics in liquid soaps formula- tion variables affecting viscosity Mary E. Turney, Union Carbide Corp., Old Saw Mill River Road, Tarrytown, NY 10591. A critical property of liquid soaps is viscosity. As is well known, viscosity of concentrated surfactant systems can be markedly influenced by the types