158 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) 11) 12) 13) 14) 15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) DeMeo Brothers, 135 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY. M. L. Garcia and J. Diaz, Combability measurements on human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 27, 379-398 (1976). G. V. Scott and C. R. Robbins, Effects of surfactant solutions on hair fiber friction, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 31, 179-200 (1980). Federal Pacific Electric Co., Newark, NJ. C. R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair (Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., New York, 1979), pp 173-174. Ethicon Inc., Somerville, NJ. G. Barnett, The Swelling of Hair in Aqueous Solutions and Mixed Solvents, M. S. thesis, Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn (June 1952). P. B. Sram, R. F. Katy, and H. J. White, Jr., The swelling of human hair in water and water vapor, Textile Res. J. 22, 448-465 (1952). J. A. Epps and L. J. Wolfram, Combing differences between caucasian and black hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 34, 213-214 (1983). SAS User's Guide Statistics (SAS Institute Inc., Cary, North Carolina), 1982 Edition, pp 1-110. G. W. Shedecor and W. G. Cochran, Statistical methods, 6th ed. (Iowa State University Press, Ames, Iowa), p 398. N. E. Yin, R. H. Kissinger, W. S. Tolgyesi, and E. M. Cottington, The effect of fiber diameter on the cosmetic aspects of hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 139-150 (1977). H. Bogaty, Letter to the editor, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 610-611 (1977). C. R. Robbins and R. J. Crawford, A method to evaluate hair body, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, (1984). G. V. Scott and C. R. Robbins, Stiffness of human hair fibers, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 29, 469-485 (1978). C. R. Robbins, Chemical aspects of bleaching human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 339-348 ( 1971). J. Menka. rt, L.J. Wolfram, and I. Mao, Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: Similarities and differences, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 17, 769-787 (1966). H. Bogaty, Torsional properties of hair in relation to permanent waving and setting, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 18, 575-589 (1967). E. I. Valko and G. Barnett, A study of the swelling of hair in mixed aqueous solvents, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 3, 108-117 (1952). N. Chamberlain and J. B. Speakman, Hysteresis phenomena in the adsorption of water by human hair, Zeitschriftfur Elektrochemie, 37, 374-375 (1931). G. King, Frictional properties of wool and nylon fibers, J. Textile Inst., 41, Tl35-144 (1950).

j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 159-175 (May/June 1986) Bleaching and permanent waving aspects of hair research HELMUT ZAHN, SABINE HILTERHAUS, and ANNELIE STRO•MANN, Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut, Veltmanplatz 8, D-5100 Aachen, West Germany. Received July 2, 1985. Presented at the 4th International Hair Science Symposium, Hohensyburg, West Germany, November 7-9, 1984. Synopsis Recent results from various hair research projects at the German Wool Research Institute are reviewed, describing the influence of bleaching and permanent waving on the morphological components and the protein structure of human hair. Modern analytical techniques such as two-dimensional gel electrophoresis and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy as well as standard techniques of protein chemistry have been used. A new enzymatic method for the isolation of intact melanin granules is presented and the behavior of these isolated pigments during bleaching is described. Investigations on intermediate oxidation products of cystine are reported. An alternative method for the determination of the degree of reduction and reoxida- tion obtained after permanent waving treatment based on S-carboxymethylation and subsequent amino acid analysis is described. Hair material solubilized during permanent waving has been isolated and its chemical nature determined. The composition of these substances indicates that the cell membrane complex is one source of this soluble fraction. INTRODUCTION Numerous scientific publications on the reactions taking place in hair during perming or bleaching already exist. The scientist nevertheless has to ask whether new results from fundamental research in wool and human hair science could provide a deeper understanding of these well-established cosmetic processes. In recent years chemical analytical methods for wool and hair have been extended by the introduction of two-dimensional gel electrophoresis and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, as well as by new techniques being developed for the isolation of morpho- logical components. The application of these new techniques and of standard techniques of protein chemistry to problems in cosmetic chemistry is an aim of the work performed at the German Wool Research Institute (DWI) and is described below. BLEACHING OF HAIR The aim of bleaching human hair is a partial or complete oxidative degradation of the natural color pigment, and thus an optimum process should be aimed at reacting with the hair melanin. In practice, however, the hair protein is also attacked by the treatment reagents, and since the melanin granules are mainly within the cortex of the fibers, suitable treatment times result in oxidative modification of the cuticle proteins 159