172 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 0./+388- II x 0.3708- 0.3369 0.302 .o_ . 0.2689 ! I i o o o o o o u-i o u5 o -•' o • • o ß --' • 0 0 0 Wovenumbers (cm -1) Figure 9. Section of the FTIR-spectrum of European brown hair. Treatment including reduction with ammonium thioglycollate at pH 8 and subsequent oxidation under various conditions ...... , 2.5% H202 -.-.-, 30% H202 --', untreated hair (Schumacher-Hamedat, Hilterhaus). GEL ELECTROPHORESIS INVESTIGATIONS OF PERMED HAIR A classical research problem in permanent waving involves ascertaining the actual areas in the hair fibers where the reactions occur. An attempt at the specification of these areas was carried out by applying the gel electrophoresis procedure of Marshall eta/. (18) to permed hair. The keratin pattern of the cosmetically altered hair sample (Figure 10) is mainly modified in areas 5, 6, and 7 as compared to the pattern of untreated fibers (Figure 6). These areas consist of sulfur-rich proteins (18). The observed changes are due to shifts of charge but not of molecular weight. A satisfactory explanation of these findings is not possible as yet. In the low-sulfur areas (areas 1-3) no obvious differences in electrophoresis behavior appear due to the treatment (Figure 10).

HAIR BLEACHING AND WAVING 173 1.Dimension - Separation Parameter. -I- --1.1 IZharge at pH 3 ,4.3 6 8 b PERMED Figure lO. Bluoro•raph ooe a •wo-dimens•on•l e]ec•rophores•s pattern ooe •he proteins oerom a samale ooe permed European brown hair (Bindewald (25)).