J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 38, 141-143 (March/April 1987) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publi- cations Committee has decided to publish abstracts of technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in the Journal.--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Seminar May 14-15, 1987 SESSION I The effect of aging on cutaneous barrier func- tion Kathleen V. Roskos, University of California San Francisco, Department of Pharmaceutical Chem- istry, 926 Medical Sciences, San Francisco, CA 94143 Despite much research into the mechanisms of cuta- neous aging and the identification of significant age-associated biological and biophysical changes within the skin, the effect of skin aging on the per- cutaneous absorption (PA) of drugs and other chem- icals has received minimal attention. We have made preliminary in viva measurements of PA in "old" subjects ()65 years) and have compared the results to published data obtained in "young" populations (18-35 years) (Feldman and Maibach, 1969 1970). Standard radiotracer methodology was em- ployed and PA was quantified from the urinary ex- cretion profiles of 14C label (corrected for incom- plete renal eliminations). Benzoic acid (BA), hydro- cortisone (HC), and testosterone (TST) have been studied. Penetration of BA and HC wvs signifi- cantly (p 0.05 and p 0.01, respectively) lower in aged subjects, whereas TST absorption was not distinguishable from the "young" controls. Thus, it appears that aging can affect PA in viva and that relatively hydrophilic drugs may be most sensitive. In addition, preliminary work utilizing transepi- dermal water loss (TEWL) will be presented. A noninvasive technique, TEWL measures the insen- sible loss of water across human skin and provides a useful means to assess barrier function. Living skin equivalent Eugene Bell, Ph.D., Organogenesis Inc., 83 Rogers Street, Cambridge, MA 02142 The Living Skin Equivalent (LSE) is being fabri- cated for two distinct classes of users. The first con- sists of individuals who require skin for replacement of their own damaged or diseased skin, and the second, of companies that must test the effects of their products on viable human skin. The LSE is an organ reconstituted from components normally present in skin. The dermis of the LSE is made up with human dermal fibroblasts, intercellular matrix proteins, and other molecules that surround dermal cells. The dermis is separated from the epidermis by a basal lamina that develops in vitro. The epidermis differentiates from human keratinocytes, forming a well-organized cuboidal basal layer. The latter gives rise to a multilayered stratified tissue covered by a completely keratinized stratum corneum. The LSE can be provided with functional melanocytes, it is biosynthetically active, and it remains viable in the incubator for long periods. Cell renewal revisited--Panacea or pariah? Peter Pugliese, M.D., Xienta Inc., Bern- ville, PA 19506 The basic mechanisms of cell division and prolifera- tion will be reviewed with emphasis on stimulation 141

142 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS of cellular proliferation. Various known agents of cellular proliferation will be discussed and related to their use in cosmetic formulations. The biological implementation of increasing the rate of cell turn- over will be related to (1) tissue integrity, (2) ox- ygen uptake, and (3) mechanisms of aging. The use of epidermal growth factor, retinoic acid, and gly- cosphingolipids will be discussed specifically, as stimulations of cellular proliferation and the action of these agents will be related to both safety and efficacy. SESSION II Facial aesthetic surgery--Magic, myth, or real- ism? Robert Conrad, M.D., 9715 Medical Center Drive, Suite 315, Rockville, MD 20850 A brief preparation organized to acquaint the audi- ence with the basic knowledge of the major aes- thetic facial procedures. The discussion will touch on the evaluation, pre- and postoperative manage- ment, expected results, and possible complications. The importance of realistic expectations, popular misconceptions, proper timing, and reasons for sur- gery will also be discussed. The importance of se- lecting a proper physician and how to accomplish this, as well as the recent problems related to phy- sician advertising, will be mentioned. The impor- tance of cosmetic coverups postoperatively and the use of cosmetics and their proper use in augmenting the results of surgery will be stressed. Pre- and postoperative photographs will be utilized to dem- onstrate results. The aging and weathering of human hair Michael Wong, Ph.D., and Leszek J. Wolfram, Ph.D., Clairol, Inc., 2 Blachley Rd., Stam- ford, CT 06922 Aging has numerous manifestations. Greying and gradual loss of scalp hair are perhaps two of the most familiar ones. They result from the changes in the physiological activities of the melanocytes and dermal papillary system. Although these changes affect the aesthetic appearance of the hair, there does not seem to be any evidence that the aging process is detrimental to the chemical or structural integrity of the hair. Weathering also leaves its marks on the hair, some of which are highly con- spicuous. The studies reveal that sun exposure leads to substantial fading of the hair's natural color, with pronounced shift towards the red and yellow. These color changes are associated with the progres- sive degradation of the hair melanin. Tactile prop- erties of hair are also affected. The weathered hair feels raspy and becomes more difficult to comb. Sun exposure causes some chemical degradation of the hair protein, with the cystine cross-links being the main focus of the attack. Interestingly, it appears that the cystine cleavage does not directly translate into significant deterioration of the mechanical properties of the hair, probably because of the for- mation of some new cross-links. Eat your way to a long life Jane Brody, New York Times, 229 West 43rd St., New York, NY 10036 Nutritionally "bankrupt" Americans eat too much fat, sugar, salt, protein, and vitamins, and they "swallow" too many diets and diet fads. Americans would all be healthier, thinner, and happier on an eating plan that gets us back to the basics--po- tatoes, rice, pasta, bread, etc., complemented by more costly animal proteins and well-laced with fruits and vegetables. SESSION III Jane O'Hern, Ph.D., Boston University School of Medicine, 605 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215 What is your mental image of an individual who is over seventy years of age? Do you seen this person as vibrant and attractive, or as becoming infirm, less able and weathered looking? As cosmetic scientists you are being challenged to become miracle workers. We want you in the laboratories discov- ering the magic pill that will provide us with more youthful looks to go along with the advances in medicine and the resultant increase in life expec- tancy. Whether it be through your miracles or cos- metic surgery, the quest for looking and feeling better about oneself will continue. As a psycholo- gist, I shall attempt to address these issues through an examination of the importance of a positive self concept and its effect upon one's appearance and productivity. Facing the mirror and the music can be viewed as either a positive or a pejorative term. Shall we dance and celebrate life or start dying as the first wrinkle or gray hair appears? Approaches to restoring the pleasure of taste and smell in later life Susan Schiffman, Ph.D., Department of Psy- chology, Duke University, Durham, NC 27706 The senses of taste and smell pay a crucial role in food intake and subsequent nutritional states. Loss in the chemical state can result from normal aging, drugs and disease states. Recent studies of the basic mechanism of taste and smell have shown that there