142 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS of cellular proliferation. Various known agents of cellular proliferation will be discussed and related to their use in cosmetic formulations. The biological implementation of increasing the rate of cell turn- over will be related to (1) tissue integrity, (2) ox- ygen uptake, and (3) mechanisms of aging. The use of epidermal growth factor, retinoic acid, and gly- cosphingolipids will be discussed specifically, as stimulations of cellular proliferation and the action of these agents will be related to both safety and efficacy. SESSION II Facial aesthetic surgery--Magic, myth, or real- ism? Robert Conrad, M.D., 9715 Medical Center Drive, Suite 315, Rockville, MD 20850 A brief preparation organized to acquaint the audi- ence with the basic knowledge of the major aes- thetic facial procedures. The discussion will touch on the evaluation, pre- and postoperative manage- ment, expected results, and possible complications. The importance of realistic expectations, popular misconceptions, proper timing, and reasons for sur- gery will also be discussed. The importance of se- lecting a proper physician and how to accomplish this, as well as the recent problems related to phy- sician advertising, will be mentioned. The impor- tance of cosmetic coverups postoperatively and the use of cosmetics and their proper use in augmenting the results of surgery will be stressed. Pre- and postoperative photographs will be utilized to dem- onstrate results. The aging and weathering of human hair Michael Wong, Ph.D., and Leszek J. Wolfram, Ph.D., Clairol, Inc., 2 Blachley Rd., Stam- ford, CT 06922 Aging has numerous manifestations. Greying and gradual loss of scalp hair are perhaps two of the most familiar ones. They result from the changes in the physiological activities of the melanocytes and dermal papillary system. Although these changes affect the aesthetic appearance of the hair, there does not seem to be any evidence that the aging process is detrimental to the chemical or structural integrity of the hair. Weathering also leaves its marks on the hair, some of which are highly con- spicuous. The studies reveal that sun exposure leads to substantial fading of the hair's natural color, with pronounced shift towards the red and yellow. These color changes are associated with the progres- sive degradation of the hair melanin. Tactile prop- erties of hair are also affected. The weathered hair feels raspy and becomes more difficult to comb. Sun exposure causes some chemical degradation of the hair protein, with the cystine cross-links being the main focus of the attack. Interestingly, it appears that the cystine cleavage does not directly translate into significant deterioration of the mechanical properties of the hair, probably because of the for- mation of some new cross-links. Eat your way to a long life Jane Brody, New York Times, 229 West 43rd St., New York, NY 10036 Nutritionally "bankrupt" Americans eat too much fat, sugar, salt, protein, and vitamins, and they "swallow" too many diets and diet fads. Americans would all be healthier, thinner, and happier on an eating plan that gets us back to the basics--po- tatoes, rice, pasta, bread, etc., complemented by more costly animal proteins and well-laced with fruits and vegetables. SESSION III Jane O'Hern, Ph.D., Boston University School of Medicine, 605 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215 What is your mental image of an individual who is over seventy years of age? Do you seen this person as vibrant and attractive, or as becoming infirm, less able and weathered looking? As cosmetic scientists you are being challenged to become miracle workers. We want you in the laboratories discov- ering the magic pill that will provide us with more youthful looks to go along with the advances in medicine and the resultant increase in life expec- tancy. Whether it be through your miracles or cos- metic surgery, the quest for looking and feeling better about oneself will continue. As a psycholo- gist, I shall attempt to address these issues through an examination of the importance of a positive self concept and its effect upon one's appearance and productivity. Facing the mirror and the music can be viewed as either a positive or a pejorative term. Shall we dance and celebrate life or start dying as the first wrinkle or gray hair appears? Approaches to restoring the pleasure of taste and smell in later life Susan Schiffman, Ph.D., Department of Psy- chology, Duke University, Durham, NC 27706 The senses of taste and smell pay a crucial role in food intake and subsequent nutritional states. Loss in the chemical state can result from normal aging, drugs and disease states. Recent studies of the basic mechanism of taste and smell have shown that there

ABSTRACTS 143 are several biochemical means to amplify taste and smell sensitivity. Aging with style and authenticity Maggie Kuhn, The Gray Panthers, 6342 Greene Street, Philadelphia, PA 19144 The presentation will include comments on the de- mographic revolution, analysis of current attitudes and fears about ranging, and the myths of age and how to overcome them with new roles and responsi- bilities. SESSION IV INSTRUMENTAL METHODS FOR AS- SESSING AGE-ASSOCIATED CHANGES IN HUMAN SKIN Biophysical methods for evaluating dry skin: Problems of the elderly Thomas Spencer, Ph.D., S.C. Johnson & Son, Inc., 1525 Howe Street, M/S #136, Racine, WI 53403 Simple instrumental measurements can be applied in small panel studies to evaluate the effects of aging on skin and the effects of products on aged skin. In combination with in vitro assessment of for- mulation properires, these methods can be used to direct product research in the development of products to resolve some of the epidermal and dermal changes occurring in dry skin. Transepi- dermal water loss, phase angle measurement, skin impedance, viscoelastic measurements, surfometric measurements, skin scaling, and visual assessment are all factors in measuring the changes associated with aging. In addition, these same measurements can be used to identify the effects of products on ameliorating, even temporarily, the effects of aging. Subject populations selected for studies of skin can dictate the ability to discern differences between products. Although genetics and race play a role in the aging process in skin, environmental factors, especially sun exposure, affect the topical skin conditions that most often concern individuals who are aging. Therefore, the skin condition and likely environmental exposure of subjects must be considered in evaluating measurements of product effects on aging skin. In vivo characterization of skin elasticity and other mechanical properties Michael Chistensen, Ph.D., and Elias W. Packman, Institute for Applied Pharmaceutical Re- search, Ltd., 214 Sycamore Avenue, Merion, PA 19066 A combination of Gas-Bearing Electrodynamometer measurements and simple topical maneuvers has been used to explore the relationship between skin surface stiffness and the configuration of the stratum corneum. Two distinct patterns of change are observed when the stratum corneum is softened by application of water or emollients. If the skin is constrained or sketched, there is surface softening with a decrease in elasticity, whereas on unstretched skin, there is softening with an increase in elas- ticity. This qualitative difference is observed be- cause, in the first case, the stratum corneum is ex- tended to a planar configuration, and in the second case, the stratum corneum is in a folded or spring- like configuration. The incidence of these two types of response may change with age and may parallel the changes in dermatoglyphics, or surface folding patterns, seen in studies of skin surface topography. Integumental reactivity, vulnerability, and repair Gary L. Grove, Ph.D., KGL, Inc./Skin Study Center, 3401 Market Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104-3355 Cross-sectional studies employing healthy volun- teers of varying ages, ranging from 18 to 80 years, have clearly shown that older adults are more likely to be harmed by various environmental insults. Other findings suggest that the stratum corneum of the elderly may not be as capable of acting as a bar- rier and that once noxious substances penetrate, they are less likely to be cleared rapidly. Moreover, due to age-associated decline in integumental reac- tivity, these harmful substances often fail to pro- voke any reactions or sensations that usually serve as warning signals. Thus, older individuals are not only more vulnerable to environmental insults, but they also fail to recognize that they are being ad- versely affected. Unfortunately, cellular turnover and repair are also much slower, and thus the time to recover from damaging insults is prolonged.