354 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 7-log difference in bacterial survival was found be- tween the control and a test sample containing al- lantoin when challenged with 10 7-- 10 8 colony- forming units per milliliter (CFU/ml). In addition, timed-kill testing performed on surfactant systems containing chloroxylenol exhibited a 5-log reduc- tion of CFU/ml within 30 seconds. This was only achieved with an optimal selection and concentra- tion of raw materials. It is theorized that molec- ular interaction and miceliar complexes may play a role in preservative interference in anionic skin cleansers. Stability of water-in-oil-in-water multiple emulsions Gary H. Cueman and Joel L. Zatz, Ph.D., Rutgers College of Pharmacy, P.O. Box 789, Piscataway, NJ 08854 Topically applied water-in-oil-in-water emulsions have the potential for prolonged delivery of water and/or water soluble-substances to the surface of the skin. These systems are subject to disruption of the oil layer separating the internal and external water phases. We have developed a technique of stability measurement based on the entrapment of a poly- meric, oil-insoluble dye in the internal water (W 1) phase. The analysis is carried out by introducing to the external phase a solution of an external standard having properties similar to the marker dye and measuring spectrophotometric absorbance at two wavelengths. This method, which compensates for diffusional water transfer and reflects oil film integ- rity, has been validated with simple O/W emul- sions. It is being used to explore the relationship between HLB and multiple emulsion stability. Analytical studies on shaving and irritation Harry R. Elden, Ph.D., Xienta Institute for Skin Research, Bernville, PA 19506 Shaving irritation can be defined in terms of stratum corneum debris removed by dermatomic planing of skin. Analytical measurement of irrita- tion and other shaving features were developed by modifying liquid transfer processes reported by sev- eral authors. Aqueous isopropanol was used, there- fore, to collect and separate particulates shaved from face, axillae and legs. Accumulated weights of daily collections showed seasonal variations, dependence upon settings of safety razor (adjustable), and con- ditioning of site. Acoustic method was used to record sounds of blade cutting hair and planing of skin surface. Ease of shaving was measured in terms of number of strokes, time sequence, and amounts of hair and stratum corneum removed. Irritation was determined by titration of stinging aqueous iso-propanol. Findings show that shaving can be measured analytically and, irritation still limits achieving the perfect shave. The use of computer-assisted infrared imaging in evaluating the efficacy of novel cosmetic hair treatment Stephen R. Schwartz, Richard E. Reever, and Larry D. Lundmark, International Research Services Inc., 222 Grace Church St., Port Chester, NY 10573 Electronic thermography was first used for medical purposes over thirty years ago when equipment originally developed for the military was modified for the detection of breast cancer. In more recent times, advanced electronic thermographic devices have become available which make extensive use of computer processing capabilities. This opened up a new realm of research and claim support possibili- ties for the cosmetic scientist of the 1980's. Thermography or infrared imaging is a technique which can be used to measure minute changes in skin temperature. It therefore can be used to mea- sure a product's effect on vascular and metabolically active tissues. In this paper we will describe the use of thermography as a tool for evaluating the efficacy of a novel cosmetic hair treatment. Results will be presented which demonstrate scalp stimulation properties which are postulated to play a role in the treatment of thinning hair. SESSION D SAFEGUARDING NEW PRODUCT INTRO- DUCTION-HOW TO AVOID FIRST PRO- DUCTION BATCH DISASTER The root of troubles in manufacturing cos- metics T. Joseph Lin, Ph.D., Consultant, 628 Enchanted Way, Pacific Palisades, CA 90272 Unexpected manufacturing troubles often delay or jeopardize a new product introduction. If unde- tected, hidden troubles often lead to product recall. The root of the problem often lies in inadequate or incomplete understanding of the key factors af- fecting the physical, chemical, or biological proper- ties of the products. Often neglected in consider- ation is the interaction factor. Process variables, or factors related to processing of products, are partic- ularly important in manufacturing emulsions and suspensions. A lack of understanding these variables often leads to disaster in manufacturing the first production batch.

ABSTRACTS 3 5 5 Process development techniques for creams and lotions George Haas, Clairol, Inc., 2 Blachley Road, Stam- ford, CT 06922 Can pilot plant scale-up predict the plant perfor- mance in the manufacture of creams and lotions? Although the answer is not always sound judgment an examination of the relevant variables can increase the probability for success. The author will present several case histories of unexpected problems that occurred in production. Having illustrated the danger of simplifying assumptions, the focus will be on the test methods that can prevent problems from occurring, as well as investigational methods that can be helpful in problem solving. To have a good emulsion you must start with a good formula. The process cannot be a band-aid for a formula problem. However, many a good formula has been compromised by an inadequate process. Hence every good product deserves a good process. First production--A disaster avoidance ap- proach for make-up Frank S. Tyminski and Michael K. Waltz, Noxell Corp., 11050 York Rd., Hunt Valley, MD 21030- 2098 The initial production of cosmetic formulations presented to a commercial manufacturing facility is usually unreliable. Most conditions for manufacture and filling are difficult, if not impossible, to dupli- cate on a bench scale. Pilot scale experimentation of bench-developed prototypes affords flexible selec- tion and testing of equipment prior to the first pro- duction manufacture of formulations. This discus- sion will focus on a useful approach to assist in avoiding first production failures. Organization of the start-up team, equipment selection, and a few case histories demonstrating the value and potential shortcomings involved in production start-ups of a new formula will be highlighted. Circumvention of pitfalls in the production of cosmetic sticks John J. Margres and Jean S. Tykowski, Reheis Chemical Company, 235 Snyder Ave., Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922 It is the contention of this paper that the most dam- aging culprits in the formulation of cosmetic sticks are atypical. We base this contention upon the premise that while the expertise of today's formu- lators show them as well-schooled, the ever-present danger of not fully interpreted or considered factors employed is paramount in product failure. Our contention will be exemplified by an in-depth chronological review of the technology incorporated in the formulation of today's most successful stick carrier form, the antiperspirant suspensoid stick. This review will highlight the fact that the success of this carrier form was achieved not only through the use of basic formulation technology, but also by the total consideration of all parameters involved. Our contention will then also be further reinforced by considering a number of less successful stick for- mulations, which employed proper formulation techniques but failed due to a lack of consideration of all factors involved. SESSION E GENERAL PAPERS Hair coloring by melanin--A novel system for imparting durable yet reversible color effects K. Brown, A. Mayer, B. Murphy, T. Schultz, and L. Wolfram, Clairol Research Laboratories, 2 Blachley Rd.• Stamford• CT 06922 The chemical nature of the dyes to be used in a hair coloring product is frequently determined by the functional purpose of that product. Thus, the class of permanent hair colorants utilizes colorless dye precursors in combination with hydrogen peroxide to form and entrap within the hair structure highly durable color moieties. A wide range of shades is obtained including those lighter than the natural hair color. Semi-permanent and temporary color- ants rely on conventional dyes which, in the case of the semi-permanents, are driven into the hair by the diffusion process, while those in the temporary category are left primarily on the hair surface. This paper describes an altogether different approach to hair coloration. It is based on formation within the hair of deposits of melanin pigment, very similar in its chemical character to that present in, and re- sponsible for, color of natural hair. The hair col- oring process in this case consists of two steps: a shampoo step during which a catalyst is introduced into the hair structure and, following a rinse, treat- ment with an aqueous solution of colorless melanin precursors such as 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its de- rivatives. The coloring process is usually completed with 5-10 minutes. The melanin deposits are formed in the peripheral regions of hair and thus are readily available for color modulation or even total removal. In vitro transepidermal water loss measure- ments to evaluate moisturizing properties of ethoxylated coconut and tallow mono- and di- glycerides L. M. Mullen, A. Sakr, J. L. Lichtin, R. F. Mar-