356 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS tiny, and J. G. Fuller, University of Cincinnati, College of Pharmacy, Mail Location 4, Cincinnati, OH 45267 (L.M.M., A.S., J.L.L.), and Sherex Chemical Co., P.O. Box 646, Dublin, OH 43017 (R.F.M., J.G.F.) The purpose of this research was to evaluate the prevention of transepidermal water loss of a series of ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides derived from coconut oil and tallow triglyceride in which the ex- tent of ethoxylation was varied. The water loss was measured by the ServoMed Evaporimeter using a nylon film as the in vitro substrate. In this study the coconut oil derivatives outperformed those from tallow triglycerides as moisturizers. Performance properties of petrolatum, mineral oil, propylene glycol, and glycerine as moisturizers are also com- pared with those of the ethoxylated mono- and di- glycerides. Effect of ch!orination at varied pH levels on hair properties N. B. Fair and B. S. Gupta, University of Mis- souri-Columbia, Columbia, MD 652 ! ! (N.B.F.), and North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC 27695-8301 (B.S.G.) The results of a study of the effect of chlorination at varied pH on selected physical properties of human hair fibers are presented. The hair was treated in 10-ppm chlorine solutions at either pH 2, 7, or 10 for durations of up to 30 hours. Acid chlorination produced the greatest and most rapid change in in- terfiber friction, surface morphology, weight loss, and reduction in force required to extend wet fibers 20%. Chlorination at pH 7 produced a more gradual change in these properties. Alkaline chlor- ination produced little significant change in the properties examined. Glycosaminog!ycans--Properties and interest for the cosmetics industry Alain Huc, Bioetica S.A., 32, rue St. Jean de Dieu, 69007 Lyon, France These substances are present in all connective tissues and are composed of disaccharidic units which may be classified in two categories: structural glycosaminoglycans and secretory glycosamino- glycans. Our research team has developed original methods to bring out the biological properties of glycosaminoglycans, i.e., their hydrating action, their effect upon cells and, their antiproteasic ac- tivity. The effect on cellular development has been evaluated by culture on a stand coated with glycos- aminoglycans, and the antiproteasic activity has been determined by observing, through electric conductivity, the degradation of the collagen by collagenase in the presence of mucopolysaccharides. These mucopolysaccharide properties have been confirmed in vivo by the effect on skin and hair of finished products containing these active principles. It has been demonstrated that a non-hydrating emulsified base could be rendered hydrating by adding a solution of chondroitine 4 sulfate, and that the hydration level of the stratum corneum could be significantly improved by applying the same prepa- ration during a week. Moreover, it has been brought out that a 5% chondroitine 4 sulfate solu- tion increases oxygen consumption by the cells of a mouse liver homogenate, thus clearly certifying the activity exercised upon the cellular metabolism. This property is essentially used in preparations for hair treatment. Such mucopolysaccharide prepara- tions stimulate hair regeneration and slow down the process of failing out. Glycosaminoglycans may also be contained in anti-wrinkle cosmetics on account of their regenerating effect on the skin. Finally, glycosaminoglycans are substances that are free from antigenicity and are very well tolerated in consequence. Glycosaminoglycans are natural products destined to play a very important role in cosmetics on account of their remarkable biocom- patibility, their hydrating properties and regener- ating effect on skin and hair. SESSION F NEW RAW MATERIALS/TECHNOLOGY Effect of acylglutamate on hair by image anal- ysis Kazutami Sakamoto, Ph.D., Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc., Glenpointe Centre West, 500 Frank W. Burr Blvd., Teaneck, NJ 07666-6894 Acylglutamate is an anionic surfactant derived from L-glutamic acid and fatty acid. Excellent mildness and sufficient detergency has been found in acyl- glutamate. Such characteristic properties depend on the molecular structure of acylglutamate containing a weak acidic pH, such as that found in skin. Sub- stantial cuticle care properties are found from hairs treated by acylglutamate from the scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Image analysis was applied for the SEM photographs. A statistically significant ef- fect for protecting hair from chemical treatments such as permanent waving are found by using acylglutamate. The absorption of acylglutamate by the hair is measured using radioactive materials. This absorption amount of acylglutamate is larger than that of sodium dodecylsulphate (SDS), but far smaller than cationic surfactants. As a result, func- tional properties of acylglutamate to protect the hair cuticle were found. It is assumed that such properties are attributed to the peptide-type struc- ture of acylglutamate.

ABSTRACTS 357 Quatrisoft •i• Polymer LM-200: A unique sub- stantive conditioner for skin and hair Joseph P. Pavlichko, Amerchol Corporation, 136 Talmadge Rd., P.O. Box 4051, Edison, NJ 08818-4051 Quatrisoft © Polymer LM-200 (Polyquaternium-24) is a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hy- droxyethyl cellulose reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, thus combining a hydrophilic cellulosic backbone with cationic lipo- philic lauryl pendant groups. This unique structure accounts for the exceptionally high level of substan- tivity to keratin substrates (skin and hair). The non-tacky film that is formed has been demon- strated by ESCA techniques to deposit uniformly on hair from root to tip without excessive buildup. The substantive character of Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 helps to condition the skin under a protec- tive coating. The hydrophobic modification of the hydrophilic cellulosic backbone gives Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 surfactanvproperdes •hieh in- crease the stability of aerosol foams as well as o/w emulsions. In the presence of salts, betaines, alkan- olamides, and amide oxides, Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 synergistically enhances the viscosity of anionic surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and alpha-olefin sulfonate. Examples of skin and hair care formulations will also be presented. A new concept in cosmetic emulsions R. Y. Lochhead, W.J. Hemker, and J. Y. Cas- taneda, BFGoodrich Technical Center, P.O. Box 122, Avon Lake, OH 44012 The objective of many moisturizing lotions is to de- posit an occlusive oil film on the skin in order to retard trans-epidermal water loss. Soap-stabilized emulsions, which represent the largest class of cos- metic lotions, however, tend to progress through lyotropic mesophases upon drying on the skin and, since these gel-like mesophases do not spread easily on the substrate tissue, the development of an oc- clusive barrier is delayed or prevented. This short- coming can be overcome by primary emulsification with hydrophobically modified carbomers. Emul- sions so formed display excellent stability upon storage but break instantly when they contact skin, to release the emulsified oil which spontaneously spreads over the skin to form an occlusive barrier. This paper will present the fundamentals of this new emulsification mechanism and its implications for cosmetic lotion formulations. New substantive humectants Geoffrey J. Brooks, Brooks Industries Inc., 70 Tyler Place, South Plainfield, NJ 07080 Two new types of substantive humectants--Qua- ternized Acetamide Mea (Quamectant(tm) AM-50) and Quaternized Lactamide Mea (Quamectant(tm) LAME-60) which show substantivity to the hair-- will be discussed. The chemistry of these inter- esting new materials will be described. The safety and toxicity will be reviewed. Their humectant properties will be compared to the parent com- pounds and other conventional humectants. Data showing substantivity to the hair will be outlined. Their novel cosmetic properties, especially in hair care formulation will be discussed. Consumer use data will show their ability to impart softness without heaviness to the hair from conditioners, and, when formulated into shampoos, their ability to control static flyaway and to leave the hair soft and springy after shampooing without affecting the shampoo's foaming properties adversely. Surfadone © surfactants--From research to reality Michael W. Hetioff, GAFChemicals Corl•., t364 Alps Rd., Wayne, NJ 07470 Surfadone • complexing surfactants represent the latest GAF development, combining our expertise in surface chemistry with our unique capability in acetylene chemistry. Surfadone • products are a new class of surfactants that utilize the highly polar pyrrolidone ring as the hydrophile. The pyrrolidone ring imparts unique complexing ability to these surfactants. Laboratory and salon evaluations show that these materials reduce hair damage when used with hair bleaches, colorants, and permanent wave formulations. They also have multi-functional at- tributes in traditional hair care, skin care, and nail care preparations. New cosmetic applications for behenyl deriva- tives Graham Barker, Granum Inc., 1611 Berdam Ave., Fairlawn, NJ 07410 Behenic acid surfactants (C22 types) are lower in irritation and toxicity than their lower-chain coun- terparts that are now being used in the cosmetic industry. These new behenyl surfactants will allow the formulator to create extremely mild personal care products with improved functional properties. The speaker will demonstrate the use of these sur- factants in the formulation of deodorant sticks, mild lotions, creams, antiperspirant sticks, etc. He will also discuss the unusual properties that can be obtained with these behenyl-based surfactants. Dermatosenso•'y profile©: An assessment of skin feel characteristics Louise B. Aust, Hill Top Research, Inc., 7506 East Monterey Way, Scottsdale, Arizona 85251