358 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Skin care products have traditionally been evaluated for clinical efficacy using one of a series of methods. In addition to these clinical tests, several bioengi- neering techniques have been used to measure or record some aspect of the skin. This presentation describes a sensory or descriptive analysis approach for evaluating skin care products. A trained group of individuals evaluate the perceived attributes of skin care products such as lotions and creams, bar soaps, liquid soaps, surgical scrubs, shaving prepa- rations, shampoos, and antiperspirants. By using reference standards and defined attributes, the panel is able to measure the relative intensities of each attribute on a numerical scale. This process can greatly assist product formulators and cosmetic chemists to analyze and compare products for the presence and intensity of skin feel attributes. The information obtained can assist in claims support, reformulation efforts, and a number of other appli- cations. Synthetic phospholipids in personal care appli- cations Dennis L. Fost, Ph.D., Mona Industries Inc., 76 E. 24th St., P.O. Box 425, Paterson, NJ 07544 Phospholipids are one of the key components of epidermal cellular membranes, and because of their ability to form bilayer structures, help control the fluidity and permeability of epidermal cells. The outermost cells of the epidermis, i.e., the stratum comeurn, are incapable of repairing their mem- branes once they become damaged, but there is evi- dence that they can benefit from exogenous applica- tion of phospholipids by cellular hydration and res- toration of the lipid moisture barrier. A new series of synthetic phospholipids, namely the Monaquat P series, is presented with emphasis on the stearyl de- rivative, Monaquat P-TS (stearamidopropyl PG di- monium chloride phosphate). This product has been shown to be quite useful in the formulation of cosmetic creams and lotions. Data to be presented include transepidermal water loss, cellular damage, and skin pH recovery studies, and a variety of for- mulations will be given to illustrate its versatility as a primary cationic emulsifier. Velsans--Multifunctional emollient esters Elizabeth P. Noble, Sandoz Chemical Corp., 4000 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 Using molecular modeling techniques and extensive tactile evaluations, a new line of alkoxylated esters have been generated by Sandoz. The products are designed to provide a high level of emolliency and mildness while at the same time exhibiting some surfactancy and other properties. Their multifunc- tional properties include solubilization of benzo- phenones, fragrance solubilization, and secondary emulsification. Molecular modeling was used to predict the optimal alkoxylate ratios. Eastman © AQ polymer--A unique dispersant for hydrophobic materials Michael J. Idacavage, Ph.D., Eastman Chemical Products, Inc., P.O. Box 431, B-230, Kingsport, TN 37662 Eastman AQ polymers are high molecular weight, amorphous, thermoplastic polyesters that disperse directly into water without the assistance or organic cosolvents, surfactants or neutralizing amines/al- kalis. The family of AQ polymers, ranging in glass transition temperature from 29 to 55øC, readily form hard, clear films exhibiting good adhesion to a variety of substrates. AQ polymers function as dis- persing agents themselves, making possible the preparation of unique dispersions of a wide range of hydrophobic materials. Stable dispersions of cyclo- methicone have been prepared in a ratio of 100 parts of cyclomethicone to 1 part of AQ 55 polymer at 50% solids level. The procedure involves the ad- dition of the oil to a dispersion of AQ polymer during high shear agitation. The scope of hydro- phobic materials which can be dispersed by this procedure include dimethicone, essential oils, vege- table oils, and waxes. Depending on the ratio of hydrophobe to AQ polymer, the product can range from a clear film containing the hydrophobe to a water dispersion of the hydrophobe using the AQ polymer as dispersing aid.