356 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Dimethiconol, 135 esters, 247 Dyeing, hair, 159 henna, 159 lawsone, 159 Egg phospholipids, 167 Electrical capacitance technique, 183 Emulsion, Multiple, 337 Encapsulation, liposomal, 119 Esterification, 247 Esters, 247 dimethiconol, 247 dimethicone copolyol, 247 fatty alcohol, 247 Guerbet Alcohol, 247 PEG esters, 247 PPG, 247 silicone, 247 Exposure, chronic, 21 Efficacy, 1 Fatty alcohol esters, 247 Fiber, damage of hair fibers, 173 stiffness, 149 Fluorescence microscopy, 279 Fluid extraction, supercritical, 35 Fourier transform Raman Spectroscopy, (FT-Raman), 257 Guerbet alcohol esters, 247 Hair, 257 Hair, 257, 309 adsorption of cationic surfaces, 85 alkaline actions on, 347 Bleaching, 257 conditioning, 135 damage of hair fibers, 183 dyeing, 159 human, 149 kerntin, reduction of, 347 photodamage, 257 relaxer, 347 straughtening, 347 supercontraction, 347 swelling, 347 type effects, 279 Oxidized hair fibers with DCCA, 183 waving, 347 Hairless mouse, 21 Henna, 159 dyeing, 159 hue, 159 High-performance liquid chromatography, 35 Hot stage Microscopy, 77 Human, hair, 149 skin, 119 Hydration, skin, 1 Hydrogen Peroxide, 299 Hydrophylic fluorescent probe, 167 Image Analysis, 1 Imidurea, imidazolidiyl urea, 193 Indo-aniline, 299 In vitro percutaneous absorption, 119 skin penetration, 119 Irritancy skin, 239 Kerntin adsorption to surfaces, 85 henna, 159 Kinetics, 247,299 L.a.b. values, 159 Lanthione, 347 Lawsone, dyeing with lawsone, 159 hue, 159 kerntin, 159 Lawsone/H-bonding, 159 tautomerism, 159 Lipids, 1 nilayers, 203 Liposomal encapsiulation, 119 Lipsomes, 119, 167, 229 loading method, 167 Mathematical Model, 229 Miceliar electrokinetic chromatography, 193 Microscopy, hot-stage, 77 Membrane, Model, 229 Methylene Blue Method Measurements, contact angle, 183 Mechanism, 299 Microemulsion, 65 Model Membrane, 229 Mouse, hairless, 21 Multiple Emulsion, 337 N-aey!-L-arginine dipeptides, physiochemical and antimicrobial properties of, 53 Naphthoquinone, 159 hue, 159 Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy, 43

Subject Index 357 Operations Research, 65 Optimization method for cosmetic formulation, 65 Oxybenzone, 21 PDMS, 135 PEG esters, 247 Performance claims, 1 Permanent waving, 149, 279 Permeability, 309 Ph, 239 effects, 279 Phospholipid egg phospholipids, 167 soya phospholipids, 167 vesicles, 119 Photoirritation, 21 Polyoxyalkylene Glycol, 247 Quat, influence of quat on hair conditioning performance of si.licones, 135 Reaction Rates, 247 Replication, of skin, 109 Retinoic acid, 119 Rheology, 77 Salicyclic acid, 229 Schiff, 159 Sebum, quantitative analysis of, 221 Sensory quality, 95 Shampoo, 309 Silicone, 135 esters, 247 Single fiber tensile kinetics, 247, 279 Skin, care, 1 human, 119 hydration, 1 in-vivo replications of human skin, 109 irritancy, 239 penetration, in vitro, 119 roughness, 1 surface, 1 Soap, 239 Squamometry, for rating interactions of cleansing products with stratum corneum, 269 Stability Study, 337 Straightening, hair, 347 Streming Potential, 309 Subjective Assessment, 1 Sunscreens, 43 Broad-spectrum, 21 Supercontraction, hair, 347 Supercritical fluid extraction, 35 Surfactants, adsorption of, 309 Surfometry, 1 Swelling, hair, 347 Test Methods, 1 TEWL, Trans epidermal water loss, 1 Thermal Optical Analysis, 77 Thioglycolate, 279 Tissue, connective, damage, 21 Topical delivery, 119 trans-3-methylbutyl 4-methoxycinnamate, photochemical studies on, 43 Triclosan, 35 Urea, Diazolidinyl, 173 UVA, 21 Washing, personal, 239 Winter xerosis, 203 Xerosis, winter, 203 Zeta Potential, 309