ORGANOFUNCTIONALIZED SILICONE RESINS 9 Spray Test Apparatus 1913 6" Glass laboratory funnel Rubber covering for ring support Laboratory ring support ( 3 3/4" Inside diameter) ) •, • rubber tubing Spray nozzle ( 19 holes ! ,, • #65 lycarbonsamp0.35")-drill Wood support and stand .. ß 3/8 314 2 3 3 314 6 7 7112 9 314 9.5 19 51 76 •.:5 152 178 190 248 Figure 3. Spray test apparatus utilized in substantivity evaluations, as described in ASTM method D1913. Table IV Classification of Various Skin Types Skin Type Description Classification Type I Always burns easily never tans Sensitive Type II Always burns easily tans minimally Sensitive Type III Burns moderately tans gradually Normal Type IV Burns minimally always tans well Normal Type V Rarely burns tans profusely Insensitive Type VI Never burns deeply pigmented Insensitive

10 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS compounds results in greater conditioning benefits. Conditioning efficacy of a quat generally increases with either increasing alkyt chain length, or with increasing alkyl substitution according to the series mono-alkyl di-alkyl tri-alkyl (25). Thus it was anticipated that increasing the alkyl chain length of the olefin group grafted onto the siloxysilicate resins would result in increased hair conditioning benefits. This was not the case for the resins evaluated in the present study, all of which performed similarly in combing experiments regardless of the chain length of the olefin group. As can be seen in Figure 1, within experimental error [previously reported to be +/-12% (28)], addi- tion of the organofunctional siloxysi!icates did not significantly alter the combing work for wet hair as compared to the base composition. The prototype conditioner base provided a 38% reduction in combing force. The conditioner composition containing the unfunctionalized MQ resin was found to decrease combing work by 45%. The formulation containing the ester-modified siloxysilicate reduced combing work by 44%, the polyether functional material by 39%, and the C•o , C16_18, and C2o_2 4 alkyl- modified resins by 39%, 44%, and 40%, respectively. The commercial volume- enhancing conditioning formulation was found to be comparable in conditioning per- formance to the prototype formulations, within the limits of experimental error. Treat- ment with this product resulted in a reduction in combing work of 46%. Treatment with the moisturizing version of the commercial conditioner, on the other hand, resulted in a reduction in combing work of 85% as compared to the control. This degree of combing improvement is not atypical for an aminofunctional silicone-based composi- tion. In addition to conditioning benefits, hair body is a highly desirous quality according to consumers. It is, however, a rather subjective and poorly defined quality, which actually comprises several interactive components including volume, springiness, stiffness, fiber density, configuration on the scalp, and fiber-fiber interactions (24,29-30). It is gen- erally accepted that tress volume is related to or provides a means for quantitatively measuring hair body. One method utilized to increase hair volume, or impart body, is to deposit a hydrocar- bon-based film on the hair via a preparation that remains on the hair between shampoos. These preparations typically contain a hydrocarbon resin, generally impart drag, and increase interfiber friction, resulting in higher forces required to comb the hair (30). Such products, depending on the choice of resins and base solvents, may also result in the appearance of unsightly flakes on the hair, and depending on the choice of hydrocarbon solvent-resin mixtures, the hair may become dry and brittle, resulting in hair fiber breakage during subsequent grooming. The coating thickness of these products must be very limited in order to maintain the natural surface and topography characteristics of the fibers (29). Another method employed to increase fiber diameter is through internal deposition of foreign materials. This process employs high-molecular-weight materials such as poly- mers and proteins since small molecules--such as alcohols, water and amines--are easily sorbed by the hair fibers and tend to act as plasticizers, effectively reducing hair stiffness and allowing the hair to lie fiat against the head (31-33). High levels of internal polymer deposition have been accomplished both on wool and cut hair, with significant increases in body, volume, and manageability characteristics (29). An alternative ap- proach, which has been shown to offer much greater potential, is to form the high- molecular-weight materials within the hair by in situ free radial polymerization tech-