26 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Heat phase A and phase B separately to 80øC. Pour phase B into phase A under moderate stirring. Homogenize with an Ultra Turrax at 11000 rpm for approximately 1 min. Let the mixture cool to 50øC and add phase C under agitated stirring. Continue stirring to 40øC and adjust pH. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Assistance in the lab by Mrs. Katja Sommer and Mr. Ren• Baudin is acknowledged, as well as helpful discussions with Dr. Helmut Luther (Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc.). REFERENCES (1) R. Schulze, Einige Versuche und Bemerkungen zum Problem der handelstiblichen Lichtschutzmittel, Parfiim. Kosmet., 37, 6, 7, 310-315, 3365-372 (1956). (2) J. Ferguson, M. Brown, D. Alert, S. Bielfeldt, J. Brown, A. Chardon, C. Hourseau, C. Mazilier, J. Cuthbert, D. Arcy-Burt, J. Jolley, M. Murdoch, P. Finkel, P. Masson, F. Merot, A. Maclennon, J. Poret, and S. Siladji, Collaborative development of a sun protection factor test method: A proposed European Standard. Int. d. Cosmet. Sd., 18, 203-218 (1996). (3) Department of Health, Education and Welfare, USA, FDA. Sunscreen drug products for over-the- counter human drugs proposed safety, effective and labeling conditions. Federal Register, 43/166, 38206-38269 (1978). (4) Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA): Standard SPF Test Method (1991). (5) B.L. Diffey and J. Robson, A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum,.]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (1989). (6) B. T. Reece, D. Deeds, and M. Rozen, An in vitro method for screening sunscreen formulations for sun protection factor using a full-thickness skin model,.J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 43, 307-312 (1992). (7) H. Tronnier, D. Kockott, B. Meick, N. Hani, and U. Heinrich, Zur in vitro-Bestimmung des SPF, Parfum. Kosmet. 77, 326-329 (1996). (8) A. Springsteen, R. Yurek, M. Frazier, and K. F. Carr, In vitro measurement of sun protection factor of sunscreens by diffuse transmittance, Analyt. Chim. Acta, 380, 155-164 (1999). (9) J.J. O'Neill, Effect of film irregularities on sunscreen efficacy,.J. Pharm. Sd., 73, 888-891 (1984). (10) R. M. Sayre, P. P. Agin, G. J. LeVee, and E. Marlowe, A comparison of in vivo and in vitro testing of sunscreening formulas, Photochem. Photobiol. 29, 559-566 (1979). (11) A.F. McKinlay and B. L. Diffey, A reference action spectrum for ultraviolet-induced erythema in human skin, CIEdournal, 6, 17-22 (1987). (12) COLIPA sun protection factor test method, ref 94/289, Oct. 1994 (The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association--COLIPA, Rue de la Loi 223/2, B-1040 Bruxelles). (13) T. Wtinsch, Synergistic effects with high performance UV-filters, Proc. XXIst IFSCC Int. Congr., 530-535 (2000). (14) T. Meadows, The effect of various sunscreen combinations on a product's SPF value, d. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 41, 141-146 (1990). (15) L. Ferrero, M. Pissavini, and L. Zastrow, Spectroscopy of sunscreen products, IFSCC Int. Congr., 52-64 (1998). (16) R. M. Sayre, Correlation of in vivo tests, in vitro SPF predictions-•A survey of published studies, Cosmet. Toilerr., 108, 111-114 (1993).
j. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 27-34 (January/February 2002) The extract of the flowers of Prunus persica, a new cosmetic ingredient, protects against solar ultraviolet-induced skin damage in vivo YOUNG HA KIM, HE EN YANG, BYUNG KYU PARK, MOON YOUNG HEO, BYOUNG KEE JO, and HYUN PYO KIM, College of Pharmacy, Kangwon National University, Chunchon 200-701 (Y.H.K., H.E.Y., B.K.P., M.Y.H., H.P.K.), and ROD Center, Coreana Cosmetic Co., Cheonan, 333-830 (B. K.J. ), Korea Accepted for publication November 15, 2001. Synopsis The flowers of Prunus persica Batsch have been used for skin disorders in East Asia from ancient times. In this investigation, the ethanol extract from this plant material was prepared and several major constituents were isolated. In addition, the protective effects of the extract were evaluated against solar ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin damage using in vivo animal models of UVB-induced erythema in guinea pigs and ear edema in ICR mice. From the extract, four kaempferol glycoside derivatives were successfully isolated and their contents were measured with HPLC. Among the derivatives isolated, the content of multiflorin B was highest (3.3%, w/w). The P. persica extract clearly inhibited UVB-induced erythema formation dose de- pendently when topically applied (IC5o = 0.5 mg/cm2). It also inhibited UVB-induced ear edema (49% inhibition at 3.0 rag/ear). Moreover, multiflorin B inhibited UVB-induced erythema formation (80% inhibition at 0.3 mg/cm2), indicating that this compound is one of the active principles of the extract. All these results suggest that P. persica extract may be useful for protection against UVB-induced skin damage when topically applied. INTRODUCTION In order to find plant materials having protective effects on solar ultraviolet (UV)- induced skin damage, various plant extracts were initially screened (1), and the extract of Prunus flowers was selected for further study. Topical application of the flowers of Prunus persica have long been used in Chinese medicine for treating skin disorders (2). Previously, the ethanol extract from the flowers of P. persica (Ku-35) was tested for protective effects against UV-induced damage in keratinocytes and fibroblasts in vitro. Ku-35 significantly inhibited the release of UVB-induced arachidonate acid metabolites Address all correspondence to Hyun Pyo Kim. 27
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