34 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE CONCLUSIONS The extract (Ku-35) of flowers of P. persica were prepared, and four flavonoid glycosides (multiflorin B, trifolin, afzelin, and astragalin) were isolated. Ku-35 protected the formation of UVB-induced erythema and edema in animal models. Ku-35 may be a new cosmetic ingredient for protection from UVB-induced skin damage by topical applica- tion. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This investigation was financially supported by a research grant from the Ministry of Health and Social Welfare, Republic of Korea (HMP-97-D-5-0034), which is greatly acknowledged. REFERENCES (1) B.J. Kim, J. H. Kim, H. P. Kim, and M.Y. Heo, Biological screening of 100 plant extracts for cosmetic use. II. Anti-oxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity, I,t. J. Cosmetic Sci., 19, 299-307 (1997). (2) The E,cyc/opedia ofChi,ese Medici,e (Shanghai Science Technology Publishing Co., Shogakukan, Tokyo, 1985), Vol. III, pp. 1923-1924. (3) Y. H. Kim, H. E. Yang, J. H. Kim, M. Y. Heo, and H. P. Kim, Protection of the flowers of Pm,•s persica extract from ultraviolet B-induced damage of normal human keratinocytes, Arch. Pharm. Res., 23, 396-400 (2000). (4) M. Y. Heo, S. H. Kim, H. E. Yang, S. H. Lee, B. K. Jo, and H. P. Kim, Protection against ultraviolet B- and C-induced DNA damage and skin carcinogenesis by the flowers of Pr•m•s persica extract, M•tation Res., 496, 47-59 (2001). (5) Y. Hiramatzu, S. Akita, P.A. Salamin, and R. Maier, Assessment of topical non-steroidal anti- inflammatory drugs in animal models, Arzneim.-Forsch., 40, 1117-1124 (1990). (6) S. Takagi, M. Yamaki, M. Kubota, and J. Minami, Studies on the purgative drugs. III. On the constituents of the flowers of Pmn•spersica Batsch, Yak•gak• ZasshL 97, 109-111 (1977). (7) K. Yamasaki, R. Kasai, Y. Masaki, M. Okihara, and O. Tanaka, Application of C-13 NMR to the structural elucidation of acylated plant glycosides, Tetrahedron Lett., 14, 1231-1234 (1977). (8) K. Markham, H. Geiger, and H. Jaggy, Kaempferol-3-O-glucopyranosyl(1-2)rhamnoside from Ginkgo biloba and a reappraisal of other gluco(1-2, 1-3 and 1-4)rhamnoside structures, Phytochem., 31, 1009- 1011 (1992). (9) S. Takagi, M. Yamaki, K. Masuda, and M. Kubota, On the constituents of the fruits of Rosa m•ltiflora Thumb. II, Yak•gak• Zasshi, 96, 1217-1222 (1976). (10) O. Barbera, J. F. Sanz, J. Sanchez-Parareda, and J. A. Marco, Further flavonol glycosides from AnthylliJ onobrychioides, Phytochem., 25, 2361-2365 (1986). (11) M. Y. Heo, C. H. Kim, J. S. Kang, K. N. Ur, and H. P. Kim, The flowers of Cartham•s tinctorim: Potential agent for postmenopausal disorder, J. Appl. Pharmacol. (Korea), 7, 221-226 (1999).

j. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 35-42 (January/February 2002) Influence of vehicles on the phase transitions of model sebum MONICA R. MOTWANI, LINDA D. RHEIN, and JOEL L. ZATZ, Therics Inc., 115 Campus Drive, Princeton, NJ 08540 (M.R.M.), SmithKline Beecham Consumer Healthcare, 1500 Littleton Road, Parsippany, NJ 07054 (L.D.R.), and New Jersey College of Pharmac•y, 160 Frelinghuysen Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 q.L.Z. ). Accepted for publication November 15, 2001. Synopsis It is hypothesized that vehicles that are miscible with sebum may concentrate drugs in the sebaceous tbllicle. This is important for the treatment of diseases like alopecia and acne. The main objective of the study was to identify different vehicles that affect the thermal behavior of sebum using differential scanning calorim- etry (DSC). For this purpose, a model sebum mixture was prepared based on a composition reported in the literature. The test vehicle was added in a concentration of 15 % of the weight of the sebum. Small portions of the above mixture were put in a pre-weighed DSC pan. These were run from -50 to 100øC at 5øC/minute. In the model sebum, four distinct transitions were observed: Mp-1 and Mp-2 occurred below 0øC while Mp-3 and Mp-4 occurred above 30øC. Vehicles that affected Mp-3 and Mp-4 were considered for further analysis. From the vehicles tested it was found that the hydrophobic materials were more eft•ctive in lowering Mp-3, while the ones that affected Mp-4 did not show any particular trend. Some of the vehicles tested are known skin permeation enhancers, and it is proposed that they interact with sebum and increase permeation by the follicular route. It was found that DSC may be used to identify vehicles that are miscible with sebum and that may deliver drugs preferentially to the sebaceous follicle. INTRODUCTION To date, most of the work done on skin permeation deals with transport through the lipold pathway of the stratum corneum. However, there is a renewed interest in the importance of appendages, particularly the follicle, in the topical delivery of medica- ments. Increased follicular deposition of therapeutic agents would be preferred over the lipoidal pathway to treat follicular diseases such as acne and alopecia. Studies done to date and methods used to investigate follicular delivery have been reported a number of times (1-3). We wanted to probe further the mechanisms by which different solvents influence follicular delivery. Sebaceous glands connected to the hair follicle by ducts release sebum into the upper third of the follicular canal. This creates an environment rich in neutral lipids composed 35